The Parading Saints of Corpus Christi
Corpus Christi is fervently and uniquely celebrated in Cusco. Fourteen Saints and Virgins, one from each of the city’s parishes, are carried in colorful procession atop heavy litters borne by members of each brotherhood guild, who can prepare for up to a year, fundraising for the saint’s elaborate attire and other adornments. The festival calls back to pre-Columbian times of the Inca Empire, when lavishly attired and adorned mummies of the highest-ranking Incas and venerated ancestors were carried on litters throughout the main streets during festivals. Along these same streets the saints and virgins now parade. They are to stay the night in the Cathedral, where they will greet Corpus Christi, the body of Christ.
This Wednesday, June 6th, at 9am, the 
Corpus Christi Altars will be presented in their respective parishes. You’ll hear music emanating from the Cathedral- a call to the saints. The processions begin as all the saints make their way to the main square at 11am, each showing off the year’s new finery and accompanied by their faithful parishioners and a band. You’ll also hear the 16th century María Angola throughout the day, South America’s largest church bell. Traditionally, Saint Sebastian, who resides 5 km from the Cathedral, and Saint Geronimo, whose parish is twice the distance from the Cathedral, race to see who will reach the Cathedral first, with Saint Sebastian beginning his route in the early hours of the morning.
Meanwhile….two blocks down, in the San Francisco Plaza, the Chiriuchu food fair will appear in Plaza San Francisco. With a name meaning cold chili pepper, this is a cold dish that features roast guinea pig, boiled chicken ch’arki (jerky), chorizo sausage, Andean cheese, toasted corn, corn bread, seaweed, and roe all piled up together. Sands will be set up throughout the square, with vendors serving up the most traditional meal of Corpus Christi. If it takes you a while to work up the courage, don’t worry, they’ll be there on Thursday too. Wednesday night families traditionally serve 12 dishes, but Thursday is about Chiriuchu. If you try a plate, wash it down with some beer or chicha, a fermented corn drink. Those of you staying at Pirwa Colonial Backpackers will find the food fair camped out right in front of the hostel in the next couple of days. If the guinea pigs don’t tempt you, you can always limit yourself to some interesting photo-taking…
The following day is the principal day of Corpus
Christi: At noon on Thursday the 7th (after the Archbishop performs the Te-Deum at 8am) it´s time for the main event, when the saints all process together, led by the 18th century pure gold massif known as the Golden Sun of Custody. It holds the Host, is adorned with hundreds of pearls, diamonds, and other precious jewels, and is carried on a silver litter. All the saints and virgins will afterwards be placed upon their respective altars throughout the plaza, each decorated with mirrors, banners, flowers, and other ornaments. Keep your eyes peeled for costumed folkloric characters like ukukus, qollas, and pabluchas amongst the crowd.
The icons will stay for a week in the Cathedral, until the Octava, when they’ll process again amongst dancers performing the Mestiza Qoyacha and the Capaq Qoya before returning to their home parishes with their dancers and musicians.
All this takes place in Cusco’s main square, or Plaza de Armas, and in the surrounding main streets. You can expect the Plaza to fill as completely as possible with spectators both curious and devout. If you’re on ground level, of course be wary of pickpockets targeting cash and small electronics such as cameras, cell phones, and mp3 players. If you’re not up to jostling amongst the crowds for a view, remember the Pirwa Posada del Corregidor is located right in the Plaza de Armas, with an in-house restaurant whose windows overlook the square- it’s a great place to watch the festivities in a more comfortable setting!