Corpus Christi in Cusco
During the time of the Incan empire, holy days were celebrated with feasting and the procession of richly adorned mummies of venerated leaders and ancestors. These traditions continue today in the uniquely Andean Corpus Christi festivities, where Catholic virgins and saints raised upon heavy litters take over the storied streets in the city’s most important annual religious festival.
On Wednesday morning, May 29th, music will emanate from the Cathedral, calling the patron saints from Cusco’s parish districts. All 15 will answer the call to spend the night in the Cathedral with Corpus Christi, the Body of Christ. Those who find themselves among the faithful in the streets might be surprised to see the statues of St Sebastian (5km away) and St Geronimo (10km away) borne upon litters by two groups who traditionally race to reach the Cathedral first.
On the main day, Thursday, May 30th, around noon (after the Archbishop´s Te-Deum) all of the saints will process together, led by the 18th century Golden Sun of Custody, a pure gold massif embedded with hundreds of pearls, diamonds, and other precious stones which holds the host and is carried in a silver carriage. Each statue’s litter is borne by brotherhood guild members who can prepare for up to a year for the event, fundraising to lavishly attire and adorn their saint. Each is also accompanied its own band and folkloric dancers performing the Mestiza Qoyacha and Capaq Qoya, among others.
Alongside the colorful processions, you’ll also see various costumed characters dancing and interacting: qollas, pabluchas, and ukukus among them. Guests at Pirwa Posada del Corregidor can watch the festivities from the window of our restaurant, Plus Café,where breakfast is served every morning and meals and drinks are on sale all day. Its balcony overlooking the Plaza de Armas is prime real estate during festival days, when the crowding on the ground can get a little intense.
While guests at Pirwa Posada del Corregidor can watch the festivities, guests at Pirwa Colonial Backpackers in Plaza San Francisco (2 blocks from the Main Square) will find the Chiriuchu Food Fair popping up at the hostel’s doorstep.Chiriuchu is Cusco’s traditional Corpus Christi meal, a cold dish of guinea pig, chicken, ch´arki, sausage, cheese, toasted corn kernels, tortillas, bread, etc. Give it a try, and don’t forget to wash it down with some beer or chicha.