Scheduling Your Visit: Is the Sunrise Over Machu Picchu Worth It?
“Sunrise over Machu Picchu” is such an evocative phrase that it’s no surprise that so many travelers are seduced by its promise. The fourth day of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu begins at 4am precisely so that hikers will arrive at the Intipunku sun gate in time to enjoy a panoramic view of Machu Picchu Citadel as first light hits. Many a traveler who’s arrived at Aguas Calientes by an alternative hike or by train will also wake up at around 4am, with the aim of hiking up to the ruins in the darkness, or competing for a seat on the first bus up, in order to watch first light hit the ruins as well. Is the hurry worth it- or are their better times of day to visit?
Firstly, to be clear: what travelers are enjoying is not the sunrise but first light, which happens a little later than a traditional sunrise. It’s the moment when the sun clears the peaks, and its light begins to cross over the ruins. Aside from this technicality, yes, it’s a magical sight that many travelers who’ve witness it will treasure. Often, however, you won’t see it…. Most mornings, the peaks and the ruins are bathed in early morning fog (or rain, especially during the November through March rainy season), and thus it’s never guaranteed.
The cost of trying to be among the first to arrive in Machu Picchu Citadel is that one actually ends up arriving at peak visitor’s hours: the ruins are overrun in the morning and significantly emptier in the afternoon. The whole point of sleeping at the town of Aguas Calientes is to reach the ruins “before the crowds”, but really, the vast majority of visitors arrive just as the site opens. For Machu Picchu, there is no “before the crowds”. There is, however, an after.
Most forget that by waking and eating breakfast so early, one gets hungry sooner than normal, and thus you’ll need snacks and water just to power your exploration during the first few hours. If you want to hike up Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu mountain, you’ll top off fast. The only food options available are the overpriced snack and beverage cart at the entrance and the very expensive lunch buffet provided by the luxe Machu Picchu Sanctuary. For any other options, you’ll need to leave Machu Picchu Citadel and take the bus down to Aguas Calientes.
This means that you miss the late afternoon, which is a huge shame. Many photographers argue that the best light is actually available around 4-4:30pm, which happens to be when the ruins are at their emptiest as well. The site officially closes at 6pm, so by 5:30pm you’ll start receiving pressure from site workers to make your way to the exit.
Consider an afternoon visit- authorities consider it to be better for the sight itself, which is sinking. This distributes the weight of so many visitors better than the early morning crush. For those with the most stamina, the best option is obvious: do it all. Try to catch first light, but stuff your day bag with enough food to get you through to late afternoon/early evening and don’t be ashamed to indulge in a nap along any inviting patch of grass on the site’s many agricultural terraces- no one will complain. Another option worth considering is visiting the site over two days, once in the morning, once in the afternoon. This will allow you to capture Machu Picchu in your photos in different light as well.