Racing Saints & Guinea Pigs: Corpus Christi in Cusco
When the Saints Come Marching In…
The best place to celebrate Corpus Christi is in Cusco, where the event takes on a character not found anywhere else. Saints and Virgins lavishly adorned in elaborate clothing and ornaments process along the same streets where, in the time of the Inca Empire, richly attired and bejeweled mummies once processed. For Cusco, this is the year’s most important and extravagant religious festival.
The day before the main event, patron saints from the 15 parish districts head towards the Main Square´s Cathedral in separate processions to the Cathedral to greet the Body of Christ (Corpus Christi). They’ll arrive showing off their newest ornate clothing and adornments and accompanied by musicians and parishioners. They’ll spend the night in the Cathedral. The next morning they’ll find their way to large altars in the Main Square decked out with flowers and tree branches, spiritual images, standards, mirrors, and more. The morning of the main day, Thursday the 23rd of this month, the Arch Bishop will lead the Te-Deum. Then the Golden Sun of Custody which holds the Sacred Host will be paraded around the Square in a silver carriage. (An 18th century piece, the Golden Custody weighs in at 26.7kg and is 1.2m in height. It´s made of gold and adorned with 331 pearls, 263 diamonds, 221 green emeralds, 89 amethysts, 62 rubies, 43 topazes, 17 diamonds, 5 sapphires and an agate.)
Once the Holy Sacrament finishes
its procession, it’s time for the Saints and Virgins to parade together to the sounds of Peru’s largest church bell, the 16th century María Angola, and traditional music while dancers perform. Some of the dances you´ll be able to see are the Mestiza Qoyacha and Capaq Qoya. In typical Andean fashion, costumed characters representing different aspects of Andean and/or Incan mythology will be in attendance entertaining the crowds, such as qollas, chauchos, pabluchas, and ukukus among them. Afterwards, they’ll stay in the Cathedral for seven days. On the Octava, there will be another parade before the Saints and Virgins separate to parade back to their respective home parishes.
A Place to Watch the Show…
The main day of Corpus Christi will take place on June 4th, but Cusco will also be celebrating its anniversary month, or mes jubilar, which ends with the Inti Raymi Sun Festival. This means that the entire month will given to celebrating in the form of outdoor concerts, pop-up markets, food fairs, Andean rituals, and more. The city’s streets become an animated stage for colorfully costumed dancers, musicians, and revelers. Give some thought to securing a comfortable spot from which to watch the action, because thousands will congregate in the main square in the next several days. Pirwa Posada del Corregidor Bed & Breakfast, our hostel in the main square of Cusco, has an in-house restaurant with a balcony overlooking the square. You can sit in the shade and enjoy a drink without missing the spectacle or having to jostle for a spot. Unlike most of the tourism sector here in the city, we offer the same low price throughout the year- there´ll be no price hikes during the festivities.
What to eat…
During the Wednesday night vigil while the Saints and Virgins are in the Cathedral, families will prepare and share 12 traditional dishes. On Thursday, one of these dishes is preeminent- you´ll see it everywhere you go: Chiriuchu, which can be translated as cold chili pepper. It´s a cold dish assembled with pieces of guinea pig, and other meats alongside Andean cheese, toasted corn kernels, tortillas, bread, and more. The dancing and music don´t stop once the patron saints enter the Cathedral, but the eating and drinking definitely starts.