Visit the Santurantikuy Market in Cusco this December

Christmas Eve in Cusco is marked by the familiar hustle and bustle of preparation and expectation that one experiences during the Christmas season in many countries, but with a unique local touch. Since the 16^th century, during the time of the Spanish vice-regency, the Plaza de Armas of Cusco has hosted the popup Santurantikuy Market on December 24^th. It’s one of the largest arts and crafts fairs in Peru, and a treasured cusqueño tradition.

Santurantikuy, which is Quechua for Selling of the Saints, once included religious items almost exclusively. Nowadays, the goods for sale include all sorts of arts and crafts products, many of which are not Christmas-themed. This includes Andean knits, metalwork, carved wood, stone work, leatherwork, and more. Many artisans come from the rural areas around Cusco, and prepare up to six months in advance, working on their wares amidst the responsibilities of subsistence farming.

The figure most identified with Santurantikuy is the Niño Manuelito, the Andean portrayal of the baby Jesus. While exploring the fair, you’re sure to find rows of open-armed Manuelitos for laying the mangers of Christmas nativity sets, or seated Manuelitos showcasing a curious wounded foot. Believers ask for a divine favor, and then place a thorn in the foot, which is only removed upon the granting of the request. Many of these figures boast hair obtained from a toddler’s first haircut, which traditionally takes place after baptism.

Along Suecia Street and leading into the Plaza de Armas, vendors hawk ponches and hot chocolate as warming beverages for what is frequently a rainy day. (Christmas Eve falls in the Andean rainy season.) Others sell fried pork chicharrón, anticucho beef heart kebabs, and other street foods. Meanwhile, on many of the surrounding streets, the most humble sellers spread out their blankets and offer a variety grasses and mosses that they have gathered to decorate the floor of one’s nativity scenes.

Overall, Santurantikuy is a chaotic but festive atmosphere that allows you to witness a variety of local holiday traditions, and perhaps obtain a few souvenirs.