Travel Tips – Page 12 – Pirwa Hostels BLOG

Into the depths of Cerro Rico: The Mines of Potosí

August 28, 2013 Pirwa

Despite being the most popular tour in Potosí, and the reason why most people visit the city, tours of the cooperative mines of Cerro Rico are not for everybody. The experience is memorable and provides an insight that merely hearing about the miners and their working conditions never will, but it can be physically and mentally uncomfortable for some. While women were discouraged from entering the mines in the past, lest they bring bad luck, this superstition has not really had any force in the last decades, so anyone who would like to experience what life in Potosí is like for most local families are free to take part. For more than 400 years, Cerro Rico has defined Potosí, and even though so much mining means that the mountain doesn’t have much time left, it’s still that way today.

15,000 miners work in the mountain’s 400 mines, most of which have several levels. (Although most of the work takes place at the lowest levels, tours do not descend to such depths because of safety considerations and because they are quite uncomfortable.) Expect low ceilings, and steep, narrow passageways that can be muddy and rocky. If you suffer from asthma, you will not want to enter at all due to the dust particles, and claustrophobics should definitely abstain as well.

Most mine tours are guided by ex-miners and begin in the morning. (There are afternoon tours as well, but the morning tours tend to spend more time in the mines.) First stop is the miners’ market in downtown Potosí, where anyone can buy dynamite, ammonium nitrate, and fuses for about US$2 without even needing a license. Here, you can pick up some gifts for the miners that you will meet during your visit. (The miners must buy their own explosive and tools and do all of the work by hand, selling their production at the end of each week for the best price they can negotiate.) Afterwards, you head to a refining plant and then on to Cerro Rico itself. Your safety equipment will be provided, but you will want to bring water and a handkerchief for your mouth.

Upon entering the mines each day, miners salute the statue of Tata Kaj’chu which sits in the entrance of each of the mountain’s 400 mines. In the dark underworld of the mines, this figure representing the devil is supposed to hold sway. Calling him Tío (Uncle), they ask for protection and give offerings in exchange for the minerals they take out of hell. On Friday nights, there is a cha’lla (offering), wherein alcohol is poured on the ground before the statue, lit cigarettes placed in his mouth, and coca leaves laid out. Getting into the spirit, the miners join the devil in his drinking and smoking. Most miners are Catholic, but offerings and requests to Christ are only made as far as the sunlight reaches.

Most mines which are open to tours have a small exhibit in the first level which sheds light on some of the mines’ history and the issues miners face. By level 2, you are mainly crawling, and then slide down to the following level through a sort of wooden chute. Level 3 is more spacious because often materials are sorted at this level. Temperatures in the mines range greatly, from very cold to 45C on the fourth and fifth levels. Most tours end with a dynamiting demonstration, so that you can feel the force of the explosions, noticeable even at some distance.

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Vegetarian Cusco

August 21, 2013 Pirwa

With a nod to frugality, certain traditional local meals have always been vegetarian, like Locro de Zapallo (Squash Stew) or Kapchi de Habas (Stewed Broadbeans). Still, meat and potatoes have always reigned supreme in Cusco’s dining scene. Cusco’s vegetarian options have steadily increased over the years, however, compelled in part by tourist demand and in part by growing religious populations which do not permit meat consumption.

Om (-) on Calle Saphi is Cusco’s first and only free restaurant runs on donations only (leave one!) and serves up vegetarian food with Indian and Peruvian influences. You can also help them with ingredients or in the kitchen, or taking food to the city’s poorer surrounding communities. It’s a great project headed by the Indian expats who also run Maikhana.

Govinda Lila ($) is a tiny food stand (comedor) in the San Blas Market. Grab a spot on the bench and get a set lunch menu (soup, main dish with salad, and juice) for just S/3.50. The options are humble, not very varied (beans, lentils), and not as flavorful as in other places, but it’s the cheapest vegetarian lunch in town.

El Encuento ($) has been trying to make Cusco more health-conscious for more than a decade. Lunch menus are S/6, which include a well-stocked salad bar. The set menu soups are just alright, but the main dishes are quite good (try the Quinoa a la Jardinera or Arroz Tapado if it’s on offer!) It’s the best vegetarian set lunch menu in town, but if you’re fine with paying more (S/10-20), try one of the a la carte options rather than the menu (the Cauliflower Stirfry is nice!).

Govinda’s (Saphi) Fixed lunch menu & A la carte Despite the name, expect veggie food with Peruvian flair

Maikhana Buffet (on the second floor of Galeria la Merced on Avenida El Sol) ($$) If you’re feeling quite hungry, and craving Indian flavors, Maikhana can take care of you for S/15. There’s a range of vegetarian and meat curries (unfortunately the better ones are the ones with meat), although you’ll probably find that it’s a more limited selection than you would expect a buffet to offer (maybe 4 meat options, 4 vegetarian, and rice).

Greens ($$$) This restaurant isn’t wholly vegetarian, but their organic menu offers plenty of options. While it’s rather expensive to be a lunchtime standard, it’s a nice stop if you’d like to leave the set menus behind and indulge in some more upscale food.

Even though Cusco does have a variety of options available for different budgets, there still might be days when nothing tickles your fancy. In that case, why not stop by the market and pick up your own ingredients? Most of Pirwa’s hostels include guest kitchens where you can fix your own meals.

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Where to Stay & What to Do in Miraflores, Lima

August 17, 2013 Pirwa

Pirwa Inclan B&B is enviably located in Miraflores, often referred to as the “greenest” area in Lima thanks to its plethora of parks and gardens. It’s just a few blocks from Kennedy Park, which in the evenings comes alive with street performers, a market, and young Peruvians heading to its restaurants and clubs.

All of the hostel’s rooms have private bathrooms, whether it’s a private room or the economical six-person shared dormitory. Reception is open 24 hours a day, and there’s a Pirwa Travel desk where you can get detailed answers to your travel questions or arrange transport, guided excursions, or more. When you feel like staying in and relaxing, there’s a foosball table and other games in the TV lounge as well as a terrace with bar.

When you stay in the heart of Miraflores, there are lots of things to do in the area, which is why it’s the most frequently recommended base for visitors to Lima. Some of our suggestions:

Sample the nightlife around Calle de las Pizzas in Kennedy Park
Take a surfing lesson on one of the four popular surfing beaches along Miraflores’ Costa Verde: Redondo, Makaha, Waikiki, and La Pampilla. Ask the receptionist to set one up for you!
Visit the pre-Incan Huaca Pucllana shrine, an adobe temple from 500AD, open from 9am to 4:30pm every day but Tuesday, it’s closed in the evenings but attractively lit, and only a few blocks from the hostel.
Browse the popup market at Kennedy Park in the evening and watch the street performers
Read the poetic quotes decorating the tile mosaics of Love Park
Go tandem paragliding off the cliffs of the Costa Verde, near Love Park.
Stop by Larcomar, the upscale mall and food court nestled into the seaside cliffs, even if for nothing more than the impressive views.
Shop for souvenirs from all of the regions of Peru at the artisanal markets on Av Petit Thouars and Ricardo Palma. The Inka Plaza or Indian Market are the largest. (See our last post for more details!)

Besides a nearby market for those of you who prefer to cook (yes, there’s a guest kitchen in the hostel), there are plenty of dining options in the area. If you’re looking for a cheap, filling, and tasty set lunch menu, try Los Yutes on Arica. For fast food, pick up a burger at the Peruvian chain Bembos (there’s also a MacDonald’s, if you must). If you’re only going to splash out for one big meal, make it ceviche, Lima’s banner dish. Although there a lots of cevicherias in the area, think about La Red Miraflores, which has made quite a reputation for itself not just for its ceviche but also for its grilled octopus. The only real food requirement? While near Larcomar, do not miss Manolo’s across the street- trying one of the chocolate- (or manjar- or pastry cream-) filled churros is a must!

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Shopping for Souvenirs in Lima

August 13, 2013 Pirwa

Many travelers realize on their final days in Peru that they want to pick up some souvenirs, or else they wait until the final days of their trip in order to avoid lugging around the extra weight. This usually means shopping in Lima, the most common exit point for air travelers. Luckily, in Lima you can find diverse artisan goods from all regions of the country. Markets and shops hawk goods that run the gamut from mass produced souvenir kitsch to true representations of Peruvian craftsmanship.

The best places to shop are Miraflores, Barranco, and the historic city center. You can generally pay in either Peruvian soles or American dollars, and some places even accept credit cards. Be careful to only accept pristine dollar bills if you plan on using them in Peru (if there are any nicks or tears, or even excessive folds, almost all stores and banks will not accept them) and learn to spot counterfeit bills. Finally, no matter where you go, make sure to barter!

What should you bring back with you? Alpaca goods are by far the most popular, as are other handwoven items. Try to get educated before purchasing, however- stop in an expensive gallery store and feel the goods to learn what Baby Alpaca (from the first shearing) and Alpaca should feel like. Most cheaper places will sell alpaca mixed with wool and even acrylic, so it helps to get a feel for them at a quality store first before braving the markets. When it comes to jewelry, silver is king in Peru, although seed jewelry from the jungle is a traditional choice as well. Pisco, a Peruvian grape brandy, carved and painted gourds, and Andean flutes are also popular. Some of the repeated motifs that you’ll see on all products are the Tumi, a ceremonial knife, the Chakana, known as an Andean cross, and the Inca calendar.

The artisan markets of Miraflores and San Miguel boast hundreds of small stores. There, you’ll find all of the staples: silverwork, alpaca goods, pottery, paintings, carvings, T-Shirts and clothing, etc. Although Larcomar is the neighborhood’s most well-known shopping center, these are for brand-name clothing and other luxury goods- it’s not the place to go for handicrafts and other souvenirs. The largest markets are the Inka Plaza and the Indian Market, so stop by those if you’re looking to do all of your shopping in just one go. To reach the markets, head to the corner of Av Petit Thouars and Av Ricardo Palma; along blocks 52 through 55 on Av Petit Thouars, you’ll find Artesanías Miraflores, Kaypi Artesanías, Gran Chimu Handicraft Market, Artesanía Señor de Sipan, Gran Chavin, the Cuzco Market, La Portada del Sol and the Inka Market. Another option would be to stop by the flea market and handicraft fair that pops up in Parque Kennedy.

Outside of Miraflores, in Pueblo Libre, there are a number of less-touristy and cheaper, but less conveniently located, artisan markets along Av. La Marina. The biggest are the Tesoros del Inka Market (block 7) and the Gran Mercado Inka (block 8). There are more options as well if you continue along Av. Sucre.

Unfortunately, shipping from Peru can be a little expensive, so you’re better off leaving room in your bag. Happy shopping!

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Your Must-Do List for Puno Peru

August 8, 2013 Pirwa

Many travelers pass through Puno to visit the islands of Lake Titicaca or to cross into Peru or Bolivia in the most economical way possible. The city, its outskirts, and the lake are worth stopping to explore, however. In honor of all that little Puno has to offer, here are our suggestions for how to spend your time in Puno, ranked in no particular order:

Hike to one of Amantani Island’s two hilltop temples, Pachatata (Father Earth) or Pachamama (Mother Earth). It takes about two hours.
Climb the 600 stairs to Condor Hill lookout (Kuntur Wasi) for the most impressive view overlooking the city and the lake. There are benches to rest along the way, but it’s also accessible by car.

Ride in a traditional totora reed boat. You can arrange a short ride from the Floating Islands of Uros.
Visit the free Yaraví Ship Museum at Puno’s port. It’s housed in the world’s oldest single-propeller iron ship, which was carried on mule-back through the Andes in the 1800s.
Walk along the lakeside walkway, the Malecón Ecoturístico Bahía de los Incas, marked by stunning lake views and pre-Incan sukankas.
Don the traditional dress of Amantani Island and take part in a local dance while staying with a family for the night.
Tour the Sillustani Chullpas, pre-Incan burial towers 45 minutes outside of Puno, overlooking Lake Umayo.

Sample some traditional local meals. Aside from freshly caught trout from Lake Titicaca, there are a number of options to seek out, including a quinoa fish stew known as chupe de quinua, a pig’s head soup called huarjata, a humble tuber and meat soup called chairo, breaded and fried chicharron de alpaca.
See the mummies and gold of the Sillustani Burial Towers exhibit at the Carlos Dreyer Museum in the main square.
Stop at the café and bar at the 17^th century Corregidor’s House in the mainsquare, a popular gathering place for local artists and expats.
If possible, go during the last week of January and first couple of days of February to enjoy one of South America’s most spectacular festivals, the Virgen de la Candelaria Festival.

If you need any assistance with guided excursions, bus transport, or any other aspect of your trip, feel free to contact the experienced specialists of Pirwa Travel, who have been providing travel services throughout Peru for ten years.

It’s no secret that when it comes to where to stay, we think that Pirwa Puno Hostel is the best choice for budget-conscious travelers! We’re located just a couple of blocks from the city’s main square, and a 15 minute walk from the port of Puno.

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