Puno – Page 4 – Pirwa Hostels BLOG

This Month: The Feast of San Santiago & Taquile Textile Fair on Lake Titicaca

July 9, 2013 Pirwa

The Island of Taquile in Lake Titicaca has been inhabited for over ten thousand years, first by the Pukara culture before being integrated into the Tiahuanaco Kingdom and the Inca Empire. It has the distinction of being one of the final holdouts resisting the Spanish conquest. Although it was probably known as Intika during the Inca Empire, the island took its current name from Count Rodrigo of Taquila, who received the island after it fell to the Spanish.

After a brief stint as an island prison during the republic, ownership of the island of Taquile was returned to the local communities some decades ago. Today it houses a couple thousand Quechua-speaking residents spread throughout the various villages. Residents still don the Spanish peasant clothing they were forced to adopt after the conquest, combined with Andean ponchos, coca-leaf purses, and belts. The island’s day to day life is run though community collectivism and the economy relies mainly on fishing, terraced agriculture, and tourism.

Most visitors who visit Taquile due so as part of a tour including Amantani Island and the Floating Islands of Uros. The Uros islands are sometimes referred to as Peru’s “Disney experience”, but are considered an obligatory stop regardless because despite their increasingly touristic nature, they’re still a site like no other.

Meanwhile, the lesser-known Taquile is popular for the warmth of its people, its scenic hikes, and the very traditional and communal way of life of its inhabitants. If you visit Taquile without visiting the other islands first, it takes three hours to reach the island (although much less if you opt for a more expensive speedboat option.) One does not see dogs and cats on the island, as these are considered delicacies, and families must receive community permission to have one.

Each July 25^th through August 2^nd, Taquile honors its patron saint, the Apostle James (San Santiago). The night before the ascent of the saint on August 2^nd is marked by dances, serenades and fireworks, although if you visit anytime during this period you are likely to be treated to a festive atmosphere with abundant chicha (fermented corn beer) and a backdrop of Sikuris and others playing panpipes, Andean flutes, and drums while other perform the Candelaria, Cinta K´ana, Taquilean Carnaval, and other traditional dances.

The Taquile art fair takes place around the same time, from July 25^th through August 5^th.

Handwoven Taquilean textiles are considered some of the best handicrafts in Peru, UNESCO even declared the textile art of Taquile Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2005. While yarnmaking and weaving are considered female tasks, knitting is exclusively done by males. Alongside soapmaking, these are some of the traditional tasks you’ll be able to observe during your visit. During the art fair, you will find the families of the Artisan Association displaying their wares in the main square.

The festival ends with the offering to the Pachamama (the Andean version of the mother earth).

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Border Crossing: From Puno Peru to La Paz Bolivia

September 12, 2012 Pirwa

Getting a mummy's-eye view at the Sillustani Chullpas in Puno, Peru — Getting a mummy’s-eye view at the Sillustani Chullpas in Puno, Peru

So you’ve been enjoying your stay Puno, visiting the Floating Islands of Uros and the Sillustani Burial Towers while relaxing in the evenings at Pirwa Puno Hostels. Good times, but perhaps you’ve begun to set your sights on that promising border with Bolivia….

For the first time border-crosser, it can be intimidating. Those delicious salteñas paceñas won’t come to you though, so here’s our primer and tips on getting from Puno to La Paz:

Tourist-Class Buses

Affordable Bus Travel in Peru — Bus Travel in Peru

The most common way to cross the border into Bolivia from Peru is a tourist-class bus from Puno to Copacabana vía the border town of Yunguyo. Some travelers stop off at Copacabana to explore the Isla del Sol, Sun Island, in Lake Titicaca and the smaller Isla de la Luna (Island of the Moon), while other continue on directly to La Paz. The 7 hour Puno – Yunguyo – Copacabana – La Paz route boasts views of scenic lakeside villages and a ferry rid across Tiquina Strait. Go with a well-recommended bus company, after all, you’ll be sitting there for seven hours. Some options are Panamericano, which leaves Puno at 7:30am each morning, and Tour Peru which departs for Copacabana and La Paz daily as well.

The direct route from Puno to La Paz crosses the border at Desaguadero rather than Yunguyo, but scenic it is not….Desaguadero is known for being a small, dirty, and unattractive bordertown. However, your total trip time would be 5 hours, and the buses pass the ruins of Tiwanaku en route. Ormeño buses leave Puno at 5:45am each day.

Stop in Copacabana to visit Sun Island before continuing to La Paz!

Local Buses

If you’d rather have the option to stop in any towns along the way that interest you, you can opt for the small local buses known as colectivos, which leave from the local bus station on the intersection of 1 de Mayo and Bolivar, two blocks away from Puno’s Terminal Terrestre (main bus terminal). This is a cheaper option, but you must be wary of pickpockets and may need to deal with uncomfortable overcrowding.

2½hr      Puno – Yunguyo Trip:            US$3.00
30min     Yunguyo – Copacabana:       US$0.50
5hr          Copacabana – La Paz:            US$4.00

If your goal is the cheapest possible transport, go local and cross at Desaguadero- the local buses are slower though. Buses leave from Puno to Desaguadero throughout the day (US$2.00 for a 4hr trip) and from Desaguadero to La Paz (US$3.00 for a 4hr) up until 5pm.

Crossing the Border into Bolivia

The Peru-Bolivia border is open from 8am–midday and from 2pm–7:30pm. From either side, it’s a mostly stress-free process that won’t take more than half an hour if your passport and tourist visa are in order. When you enter Peru, you receive a 90 day tourist visa which you must present upon entering the country; when you enter Bolivia, you receive a 30 day tourist visa- these are stamped upon exiting the countries. Keep the following tips in mind:

You can save time at the border by completing your visa form for entering Bolivia online.
North & South Americans, New Zealanders, and Australians won’t need entry visas, but French nationals must arrange this ahead of time.
United States citizens are charged a hefty entry tax- US$135.00, so make sure you bring enough money. Torn, ripped, or merely old bills will be declined, so keep it pristine and as close to exact change as you can.
Upon entering Bolivia, they ask for 2 passport-sized photos for your visa, but if you don’t have them they can try to match you up with the closest match from the leftover pile….
Save yourself the time and hassle of crossing back to Peru just to make photocopies of your passport or visa! Bring them with you
Officially, border officials can ask about the following: your hotel reservation, itinerary, yellow fever vaccination, and even request proof of economic solvency in the form of a credit card copy or bank statement. Very rarely does this happen….but it’s possible.

You made it to La Paz! Now what?…

Left to Right: Wrestling Cholitas, On top of the world at Huayna Potasí, Gazing into the Abyss at Death Road, Bridge Swinging in La Paz

Once you get to La Paz, there’s a whole new world open to you. You’ll want to take it easy for a few days to adjust to La Paz’s high altitude, going for easy day trips like visiting Moon Valley or taking in a Cholitas Wrestling show. After you’ve been fully acclimatized, you can up the ante. Outdoorsy types can hike Bolivia’s popular Huayna Potosí or up to pristine Glacier Lagoon for expansive views like no other. Thrill-seekers can go extreme, biking down the World’s Most Dangerous Road or Bridge Swinging, which is literally throwing yourself of a high bridge with an elastic cord about your chest and waist. If you want help arranging any of these excursion, you can get in touch with Pirwa Travel Service.

While looking for a place to stay in La Paz, you won’t have to go far to find Pirwa La Paz located just a block and a half from the La Paz bus terminal. We’re also just a few blocks from major attractions like San Francisco Church, tourist one-stop-shopping Sagarnaga Street, and Plaza Murillo. With a variety of affordable shared dormitories and private rooms, all with hot water access 24/7 and comfy beds, as well as a TV & movie lounge, patios, bar, free internet & wi-fi, secure luggage storage, free continental breakfast, and a friendly staff that can help you organize your trip!

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Save Big in Puno with our Unbeatable Hostel Prices!

April 4, 2012 Pirwa

We’re offering 15% off for all room types at Pirwa Puno Backpackers! If you’ve been hoping to see the world-famous manmade Floating Islands of Uros and other traditional Aymara- or Quechua-speaking islands throughout the world’s highest navigable lake, Lake Titicaca, this is the perfect time to do so- and Pirwa Puno Backpackers is only a 15 minute walk from the harbor!

Pirwa Puno Backpackers boasts an enviable location near Calle Independencia Lima, a couple of blocks from Puno’s Plaza de Armas, and a range of private rooms and shared-dormitories fit to accommodate all stripes of travelers. The friendly staff is waiting to welcome you and help you discover all that Puno has to offer!

Pirwa Puno Backpackers offers the services you’ve come to expect from Pirwa Hostels- continental breakfast, hot water 24/7, self-catering kitchen, internet & Wi-Fi, travel information counter … not to mention the fun to be had with us and other travelers in the in-house bar and TV/game lounge!

You can access the 15% discount easily by booking through our website! You can also book via email with reservaspirwa@gmail.com. They can also help you out if you have any questions or requests regarding your trip. We’re waiting to hear from you!

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The Race of Kings in San Pablo: Cusco vs the Altiplano

December 5, 2011 Pirwa

Photo by Luis Figeroa — Preparing the Whips and Conch Horns

On January 6th, in the high Andean town of San Pablo, between the departments of Cusco and Puno, a unique race will determine the following year’s luck for these two cities. Here, the three kings are not Melchor, Gaspar, and Balthazar, but rather Inkarri, Mistirri, and Negrorri (Inca King, Mestizo King, and Black King) and the three compete in a race on horseback.

After a ceremony in the town’s Wilson Theater the whips and conch horns are arranged in preparation before the municipal authorities and the kings of the year. After a fortifying cup of hot almond ponche, the fully-costumed Kings make their way to the plaza for a comical dialogue with King Herod, who fears for his throne!

Around 2:30pm the race begins, with different stops where the communities of Langui, Layo, and Checca will compete. There’s a good deal of drunken revelry and hijinks throughout, as with all Peruvian celebrations- beer everywhere.

The race ends with the Virgen of Bethlehem and the Mayor and other authorities of San Pablo presiding. If Inkarri, who represents the valleys of Cusco, wins, it will be a good year for the harvests in the area around Cusco. If Mistirri wins, the altiplano (high Andean plains- higher than 4000 meters) benefits. That means it will be a good year for ranching and the llamas and alpacas will prosper. If Negrorri wins, it will not be a good year for either of the two regions, there will be scarcity in production, but strangely, they say that there will be money.

This month is full of interesting Christmas and New Year’s related activities in Peru, and we’ll be hosting our own parties as well, so keep checking back as we’ll be posting that information soon!

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Two Festivals Collide on Taquile Island in Lake Titicaca

July 21, 2011 Pirwa

The St James (San Santiago) Festival & Taquile Textile Art Fair

The island of Taquile in Lake Titicaca takes its name from Count Rodrigo of Taquila, under whose possession the island passed after it finally capitulated to the Spanish (the island was one of the final holdouts). Under the Inca Empire, it was known as Intika. It houses about 2,200 southern Quechua speakers. Taquileans live in a collectivist society whose local economy bases itself on fishing, potato farming (on pre-Columbian stone terraces), textiles, and tourism. All work is done to benefit the community, and work such as knitting, a male task, and weaving, a female task, is undertaken as part of the daily chores. In regards to the island´s approach to tourism, Munay Taquile is the agency created to ensure local community control the island´s tourism, which relies heavily on home stays. It is Taquile´s dedication to their traditional dress, dances, rituals, artwork, and way of life that makes the island such a popular stop among visitors to Puno.

The month of July is dedicated to festivities which are intended to honor Taquile´s patron saint, the Apostle James, and which don´t end until the apostle´s ascent on August 2^nd, the eve of which will be marked by serenades, social dances, and fireworks.

This all coincides with the yearly Taquile Textile Art Fair from July 25^th to August 5^th. The island is known for its exceedingly traditional and communal way of life and for the unsurpassed quality of their hand-woven textiles, considered the best in Peru. Taquile´s textile art were proclaimed by UNESCO “Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity”. All the Artisan Association´s families will participate throughout the week in the main plaza and brightly attired community members will sing and dance the Sicuris, Candelaria, Cinta K´ana and Taquilean Carnaval to the accompaniment of panpipes, Incan pinquillo flutes, and drums.

It all ends with the offering to the Pachamama, a fitting conclusion for a majority Andean Catholic population, where Christian beliefs meld with pre-Columbian adoration of the Pachamama, mother earth.

If you´re planning on visiting Taquile, which is usually grouped into tours with Amantani Island and the Floating Islands of Uros, you can contact Pirwa Travel Service with any questions or requests. Or just stop by Pirwa Hostel in Puno, whose reception area comes armed with reference maps and tourist information and whose in-house travel desk can provide you with whatever information or tour or transport arrangements you desire. You´ll find Pirwa Hostel just a 15 minute walk from Lake Titicaca Harbor and a couple blocks from Puno´s Main Square. Husband and wife team Jenny and Carlos and their friendly staff are always eager to meet new travelers and introduce them to the sights of Puno and Lake Titicaca.