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Peru Travel: Into the Depths of Colca Canyon

Peru Travel: Into the Depths of Colca Canyon

On the San Juan de Chuccho Trail in Colca Canyon, Arequipa

Arequipa boasts many attractions, from the intricate mestizo-baroque colonial buildings of volcanic sillar in the historic center to the volcanoes and fertile valleys of its countryside. Nearby, one finds the two deepest canyons in the world, Cotahuasi Canyon and Colca Canyon. Although the former is actually deeper, Colca Canyon is most popular, mainly due to its impressive condor colonies.

8732773729_e0c69cecdc_bIf you are considering trekking Colca Canyon, consider the San Juan de Chuccha Route, which can be done in 2 or 3 days. Whether you choose a 2-day or a 3-day trek along this route, you will need to depart Arequipa quite early, at around 3:30am, to depart for Colca Canyon. There is always a stop in the canyon town of Chivay for breakfast before continuing on to Condor’s Cross lookout, the most famous spot in the canyon. There, you can watch as the world’s largest birds of flight, the endangered Andean Condor, ascend from their colony deep below the lookout in search for food. Riding the rising thermals as the sun heats the canyon, they can appear sometimes to be suspended in the air, casting huge shadows on the canyon walls. It’s also a good spot from which to admire the profundity of the world’s second largest canyon.6934264744_41c4f7a882_o

The trek begins from San Miguel Pampas in the town of Cabanaconde. Over the initial 3½ hour descent, you’ll learn about the canyon’s indigenous plants upon which locals rely for medicinal and other uses. These include muña, cactus fruit, Andean corn, squashes, and jatupa. The canyon also boasts fruits like lúcuma,  peaches, apples, papaya, squash, lúcuma, mango, and figs.

After a rest at the Colca River, the force which formed the canyon, one crosses the first hanging bridge to arrive at the tiny and enchanting canyon town of San Juan de Chuccho, located on the north side of the river and marked by trees with fruit, flowers, and lichen. After lunch and a rest, those on 2-day treks continue on, visiting the towns of Malata and Cosñirhua en route to  Sangalle Oasis. (Those on 3-day treks spend the night in San Juan de Chuccho.

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Although the canyon’s crops flourish during the December to March wet season, during much of the year parts of the canyon become quite barren- except for the Oasis, where hot temperatures and water from a geothermal spring keep the area lush year-round. There, you can enjoy the palm-lined pools of the Oasis and spend the night in adobe bungalows representative of the zone.

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It’s best to begin the following day’s ascent very early- not because it takes much time, but because it is more comfortable to do the climb before the sun becomes strong. It may take as much as 3½ hours to reach the top. After breakfast in Cabanaconde, you can give your legs a break and catch the private bus to Chivay, stopping along the way at the town of Maca and at various natural lookouts boasting privileged views of the canyon’s depth and the pre-Incan terraces of the valley.

At Chivay, one can visit the nearby Las Llamas in ChivayCaleras hotsprings and have lunch before beginning the return trip to Arequipa. Along the way, you can stop at the Lookout of the Andes, which offers panoramic views of the Chila range and Ampato, Sabancaya, and Hualca Hualca Volcanoes. We’ll also stop at Aguada Blanca National Reserve, which is most known for its grazing herds of vicuña, the rarer and more elegant cousin of the alpaca and the llama. Then, it’s back to the White City of Arequipa to explore all that it has to offer.

High Thrills Fun at Huacachina, a Real Desert Oasis in Peru

High Thrills Fun at Huacachina, a Real Desert Oasis in Peru

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Near the city of Ica, one finds a small village oasis known as Huacachina. Although its permanent population is small, it’s become a tiny resort town for nearby families, who visit to go Huacachina_10to the restaurants and resorts and paddle-boat around the lagoon, and for foreign tourists who visit to go sandboarding or take dune buggy rides down its surrounding dunes.

You can arrange a combination dune buggy / sandboarding tour from Ica city. The dune buggies are small, but can go quite fast, which combined with the rough terrain can mean some thrilling dune jumping! The cheapest option is to go with a group of other travelers in an 8-person dune buggy. Obviously, the more people in the group, the lower the price is.

Afterwards, one visits the dunes surrounding Huacachina, which are very large- some can take an hour to climb on foot! You get a quick lesson on sandboarding safety and techniques and can practice on smaller dunes before jumping off some of the large ones.

Most dune buggy tours last two to three hours, including an hour of sandboarding. If you can, think about choosing a late-afternoon tour, which starts around 4pm, so that you can still enjoy incredible views but are not struggling under the scorching desert sun. As an added benefit, some drivers will take you to one of the landscape’s natural lookouts to watch the sun set over the desert.

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If you’d rather not take a tour, grab a taxi and rent a board off the street for a few soles (probably leaving some kind of guarantee). You can take a taxi from Ica to Huacachina Huacachina_30for S/4 to 5 (soles). Be warned, however, that you’ll be missing what most travelers recount as the highlight of the trip to Ica/Huacachina- the dune buggy.

The town itself has little more than the    surrounding desert and striking tranquil views to recommend it, because food and product prices are higher than in Ica. Also, there is only one ATM in town, at Huacachinero hostal, and it’s unreliable, so think about just bringing water, snacks, and emergency cash from Ica. Huacachina is best for a short visit, some stunning photo opportunities, and a real “desert oasis” experience; it really isn’t large enough for you to plan more than a quick daytrip.

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Peru Travel Pt 2: How to Buy Machu Picchu Entrance Tickets

Peru Travel Pt 2: How to Buy Machu Picchu Entrance Tickets

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Almost all visitors to Peru plan on visiting Machu Picchu Archeological Complex, the famous Lost City of the Incas, yet it’s important to keep in mind that tickets are not available at the actual site, so travelers need to make their arrangements beforehand.

Waiting for the train in Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo)There is an official government website, for tickets to Machu Picchu (http://www.machupicchu.gob.pe/), but you will find that it is almost exclusively used by travel agencies or by travelers already in Cusco, because the site does not currently accept credit card payments from other countries. After making an online reservation, one must take the printout to the Banco de la Nación (on Cusco’s main street, Avenida El Sol) or to MultiRed Agentes banks. Depending on the time you go (lunch hours are the worst) the wait could range from 30 to 60 minutes. Then, you can pay for the reservation with cash or credit card and a valid form of identification. Then you return to the website, click the Check-In section, and enter your reservation number to generate your tickets. You have a limited amount of time to confirm your pre-reservation with payment before it is lost.

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Pirwa Hostels’ guests often contact our travel department to ask for assistance obtaining Machu Picchu entrance tickets. Even if you’re not interested in contracting a full 2 day, 1 night trip to Machu Picchu with a guide, you can still ask for this service. With only a valid passport copy and payment through our secure online system, Pirwa Travel Service can purchase Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu tickets on your behalf. Or, you can pick and choose the services you require:

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  • transfers to/from the train station
  • bus tickets from Aguas Calientes to the archeological complex
  • lodging in Aguas Calientes
  • entrances
  • guided visits

If you would rather obtain your tickets independently, and don’t want to bother with the website, you can also buy Machu Picchu tickets at the DRC Offices in Cusco or in the main square of Aguas Calientes. In Cusco, the office is located a 15 minute walk from the Plaza de Armas, on Av La Cultura. You can ask for assistance in reception regarding how to find the office. On Mondays through Saturdays, the office is open from 8am-4pm, and on Sundays it opens from 5am to 10pm.

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For those of you looking for affordable lodging in Aguas Calientes (formally Machu Picchu Pueblo), the base town for those visiting the famous Inca citadel, Pirwa Hostels has two locations in town. Pirwa Machu Picchu Hostel offers a variety of shared dormitories with private or shared bath, or private rooms with private bath, while Pirwa Machu Picchu B&B offers exclusively private rooms. Both offer breakfast, although it’s a simple continental breakfast in the slightly more economical Pirwa Machu Picchu Hostel and an American breakfast in the B&B. No matter which of our locales you choose, we prefer to meet all of our guests at the Aguas Calientes train station to help them with their bags and to the hostel.

Bolivia Travel: A Day in La Paz

Bolivia Travel: A Day in La Paz

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Despite the difficult altitude and cold winds, La Paz has a lot to offer young travelers. Don’t just whiz by en route to Copacabana, Uyuni, or the Amazon– stop and explore. Visit the Wrestling Cholitas, browse the Witches’ Market, or learn to mountain climb. If you’re planning on spending some time in La Paz, make sure to check out our recommendations:

All in One Day: Daytrips from La PazBackpacking La Paz

La Paz offers a assortment of memorable day trips. Among the most popular is the infamous Death Road, where travelers seeking thrills and glory throw themselves into an adrenaline-packed downhill biking adeventure, racing through waterfalls, around takes you through waterfalls and along sharp curves with steep drops.

Death Road 1Active travelers can even tackle some of the the city’s surrounding peaks, from the icy but beautiful Willa Mankilisani, or the Pico Austria summit with its pristine mountain lakes and expansive views. More relaxed trips include a visit to the Ruins of Tiwanaku about 45 miles west of La Paz, horseback riding along the Muela del Diablo (Devil’s Tooth), and walks up to Chacaltaya glacier (for mountain climbers’ views without the actual climbing) together with the Valley of the Moon.

Eating, Drinking & Dancing in La Paz

salteñasLa Paz offers a surprising amount of international fare alongside Bolivian food. Try the fixed-menu restaurants for a cheap and authentic lunch (under Bs10), but be sure to use common sense and choose notably clean sites. For a snack, salteño empanadas are a must. Another traditional choice are humintas, slightly sweet tamales based on ground fresh corn (rather than dried) and cheese.

Although it costs a little more than the fixed-lunch places try something different at Papaya’s Café in the Folkloric Museum on Calle Jaen and Sucre, where you can try llama burgers and homemade Saya beer. Vegetarians shouldn’t miss Namas Te, which is known for the city’s best vegetarian lunch menus. If you’re eager to try one of the fancier places in La Paz’s burgeoning dining scene, head down Prado, around the Isabel La Católica and Avaroa plazas. Whatever you’re dining on, try washing it down with the peanut drink known as Chicha de Mani, the sweet purple corn drink known as Api, or the local standard, Paceña Beer.

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La Paz’s nightlife is varied. Music clubs known as peñas offer folkloric Andean music and dance (try notables like Huari on Calle Sagarnaga or Marka Tambo on Calle Jaen), while modern bar and dance club Mongo’s (Hermanos Manchego 2444) serves up a lively scene where you can meet both locals and travelers. A special mention should be made for the great drinks at Pomp Pomp Salty Man, because with a name like that it’s irresistible.

For affordable lodging, visit Pirwa La Paz, located Pirwa La Paz Receptionjust a 3-minute walk (a block and a half) from the La Paz Bus Terminal, the TAM airline office, and Plaza San Francisco, which boasts a variety of tourist attractions. Just a few minutes further and you’ll reach some of the city’s best museums as well as the main  shopping area for souvenirs. Not only is Pirwa Hostel La Paz comfortable and centrally located, but Daniela and the rest of the staff would be pleased to help you plan your excursions throughout Bolivia, or even show you the town’s nightlife!

This Month: The Feast of San Santiago & Taquile Textile Fair on Lake Titicaca

This Month: The Feast of San Santiago & Taquile Textile Fair on Lake Titicaca

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The Island of Taquile in Lake Titicaca has been inhabited for over ten thousand years, first by the Pukara culture before being integrated into the Tiahuanaco Kingdom and the Inca Empire. It has the distinction of being one of the final holdouts resisting the Spanish conquest. Although it was probably known as Intika during the Inca Empire, the island took its current name from Count Rodrigo of Taquila, who received the island after it fell to the Spanish.

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After a brief stint as an island prison during the republic, ownership of the island of Taquile was returned to the local communities some decades ago. Today it houses a couple thousand Quechua-speaking residents spread throughout the various villages. Residents still don the Spanish peasant clothing they were forced to adopt after the conquest, combined with Andean ponchos, coca-leaf purses, and belts. The island’s day to day life is run though community collectivism and the economy relies mainly on fishing, terraced agriculture, and tourism.

Taquile_24Most visitors who visit Taquile due so as part of a tour including Amantani Island and the Floating Islands of Uros. The Uros islands are sometimes referred to as Peru’s “Disney experience”, but are considered an obligatory stop regardless because despite their increasingly touristic nature, they’re still a site like no other.

Meanwhile, the lesser-known Taquile is popular for Taquile_14the warmth of its people, its scenic hikes, and the very traditional and communal way of life of its inhabitants.  If you visit Taquile without visiting the other islands first, it takes three hours to reach the island (although much less if you opt for a more expensive speedboat option.) One does not see dogs and cats on the island, as these are considered delicacies, and families must receive community permission to have one.

Each July 25th through August 2nd, Taquile honors its patron saint, the Apostle James (San Santiago). The night before the ascent of the saint on August 2nd is marked by dances, serenades and fireworks, although if you visit anytime during this period you are likely to be treated to a festive atmosphere with abundant chicha (fermented corn beer) and a backdrop of Sikuris and others playing panpipes, Andean flutes, and drums while other perform the Candelaria, Cinta K´ana, Taquilean Carnaval, and other traditional dances.

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The Taquile art fair takes place around the same time, from July 25th through August 5th.

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Taquile_12Handwoven Taquilean textiles are considered some of the best handicrafts in Peru, UNESCO even declared the textile art of Taquile Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2005. While yarnmaking and weaving are considered female tasks, knitting is exclusively done by males. Alongside soapmaking, these are some of the traditional tasks you’ll be able to observe during your visit. During the art fair, you will find the families of the Artisan Association displaying their wares in the main square.

The festival ends with the offering to the Pachamama (the Andean version of the mother earth).