Peru – Page 13 – Pirwa Hostels BLOG

The Lord of Miracles: The Purple Month in Lima

September 18, 2013 Pirwa

One of Peru’s most prominent religious festivals, the Lord of Miracles, will kick off on October 18^th, lasting ten days. October is known as the Purple Month in Lima, which isn’t surprising considering that you’ll see the color appearing everywhere throughout those weeks. In honor of the city’s patron saint, some devotees wear this color all month long. One of Peru’s most popular soccer teams, Alianza Lima, even changes the color of their team jerseys for the month.

Who is the Lord of Miracles? In the 1650s, Angolan slaves and freedmen formed the Pachacamilla guild, which managed religious services (like baptisms and funerals) and provided economic assistance within the community. One of its members painted the image now known as the Lord of Miracles (or the Black Christ) on a crude adobe wall of the slave quarters. Four years later, an earthquake devastated Lima and Callao, leveling all of Pachacamilla except for the wall with the Christ painting. As meetings and masses began to be held at the image, authorities attempted to halt them. The image survived numerous attempts to erase it, as well as another incredibly destructive earthquake and subsequent tidal wave. Finally, authorities accepted the growing cult, the Church of Nazcarenas was built around the image and the processions began.

The main event is one of South America’s largest processions, during which the image is taken from its home church Las Nazarenas and to other historic colonial churches, accompanied by the incense and drums of the faithful. The main procession lasts 24 hours, with thousands taking part. The icon is carried on a 2-ton litter by groups (brotherhoods) who work in short shifts before passing the load on to the next group. They are accompanied by singers and dancers as the streets are strewn with flowers and confetti.

The streets fill with vendors offering a wide variety of treats, but the signature choice for October is the Turrón de Doña Pepa, a sticky anise-flavored pastry created by a black slave who credited the Lord of Miracles with restoring the use of her arms and hands. If you’re one of those who find the turrón too sweet, you can opt for picarones, pumpkin fritters in syrup. Another traditional choice associated with the festivities are the skewered beef hearts known as anticuchos.

Lima’s bullfighting season also begins in October, and is named in honor of the Lord of Miracles. Some of the world’s best bullfighters gather at the Plaza de Acho, which at 246 years old is the second oldest bullring in the world which is still in use. Events take place every Sunday afternoon, with cheap tickets in the sun and expensive ones in the shade. There’s a growing antitaurino movement in Lima as well, pushing for a ban on bullfighting (which in Peru is to the death). This means you are also likely to see protestors outside the stadium.

For assistance with transport or excursions for Lima, Peru, feel free to contact Pirwa Travel Service, with more than 10 years experience providing travel services throughout Peru and Bolivia!

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Vegetarian Cusco

August 21, 2013 Pirwa

With a nod to frugality, certain traditional local meals have always been vegetarian, like Locro de Zapallo (Squash Stew) or Kapchi de Habas (Stewed Broadbeans). Still, meat and potatoes have always reigned supreme in Cusco’s dining scene. Cusco’s vegetarian options have steadily increased over the years, however, compelled in part by tourist demand and in part by growing religious populations which do not permit meat consumption.

Om (-) on Calle Saphi is Cusco’s first and only free restaurant runs on donations only (leave one!) and serves up vegetarian food with Indian and Peruvian influences. You can also help them with ingredients or in the kitchen, or taking food to the city’s poorer surrounding communities. It’s a great project headed by the Indian expats who also run Maikhana.

Govinda Lila ($) is a tiny food stand (comedor) in the San Blas Market. Grab a spot on the bench and get a set lunch menu (soup, main dish with salad, and juice) for just S/3.50. The options are humble, not very varied (beans, lentils), and not as flavorful as in other places, but it’s the cheapest vegetarian lunch in town.

El Encuento ($) has been trying to make Cusco more health-conscious for more than a decade. Lunch menus are S/6, which include a well-stocked salad bar. The set menu soups are just alright, but the main dishes are quite good (try the Quinoa a la Jardinera or Arroz Tapado if it’s on offer!) It’s the best vegetarian set lunch menu in town, but if you’re fine with paying more (S/10-20), try one of the a la carte options rather than the menu (the Cauliflower Stirfry is nice!).

Govinda’s (Saphi) Fixed lunch menu & A la carte Despite the name, expect veggie food with Peruvian flair

Maikhana Buffet (on the second floor of Galeria la Merced on Avenida El Sol) ($$) If you’re feeling quite hungry, and craving Indian flavors, Maikhana can take care of you for S/15. There’s a range of vegetarian and meat curries (unfortunately the better ones are the ones with meat), although you’ll probably find that it’s a more limited selection than you would expect a buffet to offer (maybe 4 meat options, 4 vegetarian, and rice).

Greens ($$$) This restaurant isn’t wholly vegetarian, but their organic menu offers plenty of options. While it’s rather expensive to be a lunchtime standard, it’s a nice stop if you’d like to leave the set menus behind and indulge in some more upscale food.

Even though Cusco does have a variety of options available for different budgets, there still might be days when nothing tickles your fancy. In that case, why not stop by the market and pick up your own ingredients? Most of Pirwa’s hostels include guest kitchens where you can fix your own meals.

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Where to Stay & What to Do in Miraflores, Lima

August 17, 2013 Pirwa

Pirwa Inclan B&B is enviably located in Miraflores, often referred to as the “greenest” area in Lima thanks to its plethora of parks and gardens. It’s just a few blocks from Kennedy Park, which in the evenings comes alive with street performers, a market, and young Peruvians heading to its restaurants and clubs.

All of the hostel’s rooms have private bathrooms, whether it’s a private room or the economical six-person shared dormitory. Reception is open 24 hours a day, and there’s a Pirwa Travel desk where you can get detailed answers to your travel questions or arrange transport, guided excursions, or more. When you feel like staying in and relaxing, there’s a foosball table and other games in the TV lounge as well as a terrace with bar.

When you stay in the heart of Miraflores, there are lots of things to do in the area, which is why it’s the most frequently recommended base for visitors to Lima. Some of our suggestions:

Sample the nightlife around Calle de las Pizzas in Kennedy Park
Take a surfing lesson on one of the four popular surfing beaches along Miraflores’ Costa Verde: Redondo, Makaha, Waikiki, and La Pampilla. Ask the receptionist to set one up for you!
Visit the pre-Incan Huaca Pucllana shrine, an adobe temple from 500AD, open from 9am to 4:30pm every day but Tuesday, it’s closed in the evenings but attractively lit, and only a few blocks from the hostel.
Browse the popup market at Kennedy Park in the evening and watch the street performers
Read the poetic quotes decorating the tile mosaics of Love Park
Go tandem paragliding off the cliffs of the Costa Verde, near Love Park.
Stop by Larcomar, the upscale mall and food court nestled into the seaside cliffs, even if for nothing more than the impressive views.
Shop for souvenirs from all of the regions of Peru at the artisanal markets on Av Petit Thouars and Ricardo Palma. The Inka Plaza or Indian Market are the largest. (See our last post for more details!)

Besides a nearby market for those of you who prefer to cook (yes, there’s a guest kitchen in the hostel), there are plenty of dining options in the area. If you’re looking for a cheap, filling, and tasty set lunch menu, try Los Yutes on Arica. For fast food, pick up a burger at the Peruvian chain Bembos (there’s also a MacDonald’s, if you must). If you’re only going to splash out for one big meal, make it ceviche, Lima’s banner dish. Although there a lots of cevicherias in the area, think about La Red Miraflores, which has made quite a reputation for itself not just for its ceviche but also for its grilled octopus. The only real food requirement? While near Larcomar, do not miss Manolo’s across the street- trying one of the chocolate- (or manjar- or pastry cream-) filled churros is a must!

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Shopping for Souvenirs in Lima

August 13, 2013 Pirwa

Many travelers realize on their final days in Peru that they want to pick up some souvenirs, or else they wait until the final days of their trip in order to avoid lugging around the extra weight. This usually means shopping in Lima, the most common exit point for air travelers. Luckily, in Lima you can find diverse artisan goods from all regions of the country. Markets and shops hawk goods that run the gamut from mass produced souvenir kitsch to true representations of Peruvian craftsmanship.

The best places to shop are Miraflores, Barranco, and the historic city center. You can generally pay in either Peruvian soles or American dollars, and some places even accept credit cards. Be careful to only accept pristine dollar bills if you plan on using them in Peru (if there are any nicks or tears, or even excessive folds, almost all stores and banks will not accept them) and learn to spot counterfeit bills. Finally, no matter where you go, make sure to barter!

What should you bring back with you? Alpaca goods are by far the most popular, as are other handwoven items. Try to get educated before purchasing, however- stop in an expensive gallery store and feel the goods to learn what Baby Alpaca (from the first shearing) and Alpaca should feel like. Most cheaper places will sell alpaca mixed with wool and even acrylic, so it helps to get a feel for them at a quality store first before braving the markets. When it comes to jewelry, silver is king in Peru, although seed jewelry from the jungle is a traditional choice as well. Pisco, a Peruvian grape brandy, carved and painted gourds, and Andean flutes are also popular. Some of the repeated motifs that you’ll see on all products are the Tumi, a ceremonial knife, the Chakana, known as an Andean cross, and the Inca calendar.

The artisan markets of Miraflores and San Miguel boast hundreds of small stores. There, you’ll find all of the staples: silverwork, alpaca goods, pottery, paintings, carvings, T-Shirts and clothing, etc. Although Larcomar is the neighborhood’s most well-known shopping center, these are for brand-name clothing and other luxury goods- it’s not the place to go for handicrafts and other souvenirs. The largest markets are the Inka Plaza and the Indian Market, so stop by those if you’re looking to do all of your shopping in just one go. To reach the markets, head to the corner of Av Petit Thouars and Av Ricardo Palma; along blocks 52 through 55 on Av Petit Thouars, you’ll find Artesanías Miraflores, Kaypi Artesanías, Gran Chimu Handicraft Market, Artesanía Señor de Sipan, Gran Chavin, the Cuzco Market, La Portada del Sol and the Inka Market. Another option would be to stop by the flea market and handicraft fair that pops up in Parque Kennedy.

Outside of Miraflores, in Pueblo Libre, there are a number of less-touristy and cheaper, but less conveniently located, artisan markets along Av. La Marina. The biggest are the Tesoros del Inka Market (block 7) and the Gran Mercado Inka (block 8). There are more options as well if you continue along Av. Sucre.

Unfortunately, shipping from Peru can be a little expensive, so you’re better off leaving room in your bag. Happy shopping!

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Peru Travel: Into the Depths of Colca Canyon

August 1, 2013 Pirwa

Arequipa boasts many attractions, from the intricate mestizo-baroque colonial buildings of volcanic sillar in the historic center to the volcanoes and fertile valleys of its countryside. Nearby, one finds the two deepest canyons in the world, Cotahuasi Canyon and Colca Canyon. Although the former is actually deeper, Colca Canyon is most popular, mainly due to its impressive condor colonies.

If you are considering trekking Colca Canyon, consider the San Juan de Chuccha Route, which can be done in 2 or 3 days. Whether you choose a 2-day or a 3-day trek along this route, you will need to depart Arequipa quite early, at around 3:30am, to depart for Colca Canyon. There is always a stop in the canyon town of Chivay for breakfast before continuing on to Condor’s Cross lookout, the most famous spot in the canyon. There, you can watch as the world’s largest birds of flight, the endangered Andean Condor, ascend from their colony deep below the lookout in search for food. Riding the rising thermals as the sun heats the canyon, they can appear sometimes to be suspended in the air, casting huge shadows on the canyon walls. It’s also a good spot from which to admire the profundity of the world’s second largest canyon.

The trek begins from San Miguel Pampas in the town of Cabanaconde. Over the initial 3½ hour descent, you’ll learn about the canyon’s indigenous plants upon which locals rely for medicinal and other uses. These include muña, cactus fruit, Andean corn, squashes, and jatupa. The canyon also boasts fruits like lúcuma, peaches, apples, papaya, squash, lúcuma, mango, and figs.

After a rest at the Colca River, the force which formed the canyon, one crosses the first hanging bridge to arrive at the tiny and enchanting canyon town of San Juan de Chuccho, located on the north side of the river and marked by trees with fruit, flowers, and lichen. After lunch and a rest, those on 2-day treks continue on, visiting the towns of Malata and Cosñirhua en route to Sangalle Oasis. (Those on 3-day treks spend the night in San Juan de Chuccho.

Although the canyon’s crops flourish during the December to March wet season, during much of the year parts of the canyon become quite barren- except for the Oasis, where hot temperatures and water from a geothermal spring keep the area lush year-round. There, you can enjoy the palm-lined pools of the Oasis and spend the night in adobe bungalows representative of the zone.

It’s best to begin the following day’s ascent very early- not because it takes much time, but because it is more comfortable to do the climb before the sun becomes strong. It may take as much as 3½ hours to reach the top. After breakfast in Cabanaconde, you can give your legs a break and catch the private bus to Chivay, stopping along the way at the town of Maca and at various natural lookouts boasting privileged views of the canyon’s depth and the pre-Incan terraces of the valley.

At Chivay, one can visit the nearby Las Caleras hotsprings and have lunch before beginning the return trip to Arequipa. Along the way, you can stop at the Lookout of the Andes, which offers panoramic views of the Chila range and Ampato, Sabancaya, and Hualca Hualca Volcanoes. We’ll also stop at Aguada Blanca National Reserve, which is most known for its grazing herds of vicuña, the rarer and more elegant cousin of the alpaca and the llama. Then, it’s back to the White City of Arequipa to explore all that it has to offer.