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The Santa Tierra Festival on Lake Titicaca

The Santa Tierra Festival on Lake Titicaca

In Andean myths, Lake Titicaca, the sun, moon and stars came out of Lake Titicaca, as did Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo, the legendary founders of the Inca civilization. The lake and some of its islands are still considered sacred sites in Andean culture to this day.

Puerto Maldonado in the Peruvian Amazon

Puerto Maldonado in the Peruvian Amazon

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This December 26th, the department of Madre de Dios in southeastern Peru will celebrate its founding anniversary. Celebrations include singing, dancing and street parades, with the largest events taking place in the capital city, Puerto Maldonado. The area boasts lush landscapes, famous sunsets, wide rivers, and lakes and lagoons surrounded by tropical flowers and palm trees. Its most famous attractions are the virgin jungle of Manu Biosphere Reserve, Tambopata-Candamo  National Park, and scenic Lake Sandoval.

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Visitors to Manu can expect to see many tropical birds, including blue and yellow parrots which congregate at the local clay licks and the national bird of Peru, the Cock of the Rock, with its showy mating dance. Native reptiles include the cayman and the emerald boa, while some notable mammals are the long-legged maned wolf, oncilla (tigrillo), and the highly elusive jaguar.

Cayman, Tambopata River6174824931_4cfd9f34df_oSONY DSC

Manu is one of the most bio-diverse areas in the world (only recently surpassed by Bolivia’s Madidi National Reserve for the most bio-diverse). You can take a tour which will allow you to explore its rivers and paths as well as visit an indigenous community. There are a variety of ethnic communities which live in the area, although the Machiguenga and Huacaria are the most well-known.

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The Scissor Dancers of Peru Will Show off Their Moves this December

The Scissor Dancers of Peru Will Show off Their Moves this December

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Each December 24th through 27th, the city of Huancavelica celebrates the lively Scissor Dance (Danza de las Tijeras), which hails from the Ayacucho region of the Peruvian highlands and pairs acrobatic moves and rhythmically snapping scissors with violin and harp music.

In pre-Hispanic times, holy men from7824612410_23f1b79fdc_k the local highland communities performed the ritual dances from which the Scissor Dance originates, but after the Spanish conquest such dances were seen as diabolical by the colonists, who forced the holy men into hiding in the surrounding mountains. The dancers were eventually allowed to return to their villages only upon the condition that from now on, they would dance for Catholic saints. Colonial influence can be seen through the inclusion of Spanish steps such as the jota, contradanza and minués, as well as in the dress. Today, the dance is often seen on religious holidays as well as agricultural festivals.

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Three years ago, UNESCO declared the dance as part of the intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity for its historical and symbolic value.

As the dance never lost its reputation for being gfgdiabolical, locals referred to it as Supaypa Wasin Tusuq, which is Quechua for “dance in the house of the devil”. The popularity of the name Scissor Dance is attributed to 20th century Peruvian author José María Arguedas, who immortalized the dance in various novels. Local lore maintains that a pact with the devil gives the dancers the skill and stamina to perform in marathon dance contests where they dance intermittently with competitors for 10 to 12 hours.

Alongside this month’s Atipanacuy Festival, during which the faithful engage in occasionally gory ritual spectacles, Huancavelica also holds its largest scissor dance contest.

Christmas in Cusco, Peru

Christmas in Cusco, Peru

Christmas at Pirwa Colonial Hostel in Cusco PeruChristmas in Cusco, PeruChristmas in Cusco, Peru

When it comes to Christmas and New Year’s Eve, Peru’s most popular destination is Cusco. Although you’ll find the city rather deserted on Christmas Day itself (as most businesses stay closed and people spend time with their families), Christmas Eve is very lively. From the early hours of Dec 24th, Peru’s largest folk art fair, Santurantikuy, fills the Plaza de Armas as it has since Incan times. Artisans from throughout the surrounding provinces bring pieces for sale, especially the nativities and Niño Manuelito which have been so popular since the time of the Spanish conquest. (The latter is Cusco’s version of the child Christ, the most traditional Christmas in Cusco, Peruversion of which is the child sitting in a wooden chair with a wound in his raised foot. Buyers request wishes and insert a thorn in the wound, where it will remain until the wish is granted.) Other products include leather goods, carved wood and stone, leather goods, and decorative ceramics. While browsing the fair, you can warm up with some ponche or hot chocolate and sample some street food. Expect the main square to be very crowded during Santurantikuy, and be wary of pickpockets.

The Santurantikuy Fair in Cusco PeruThe Santurantikuy Fair in Cusco PeruThe Santurantikuy Fair in Cusco Peru

In the evening, most people enjoy a traditional Christmas Eve dinner with their families. (Peruvians consider Christmas Eve to be the main day of celebration, not Christmas Day.) Many restaurants offer set menus for travelers on this night, but they are very pricey by local standards.

Christmas at Pirwa Colonial Hostel in Cusco PeruChristmas at Pirwa Colonial Hostel in Cusco PeruChristmas at Pirwa Colonial Hostel in Cusco Peru

All of the guests at our Cusco hostels are invited to join us at our own traditional dinner, this December 24th at 9pm at Pirwa Colonial Hostel. We offer this at cost, which is a third of the price that the same dinner will be selling elsewhere, so that all of us away from home can celebrate Christmas Eve together. (You can find invitations with the details at all of our reception desks.

Christmas at Pirwa Colonial Hostel in Cusco PeruChristmas at Pirwa Colonial Hostel in Cusco PeruChristmas at Pirwa Colonial Hostel in Cusco Peru

At midnight, Cusco lights up with fireworks and firecrackers set off by local families. Although much of this clusters around the main square (which can sound like a war zone at this time), you’ll find the noise inescapable throughout the city. If you’re so inclined, you can choose to light a few of your own, as they’ll be on sale along the city streets throughout the day. Wherever and however you choose to spend the day, we hope that all of you have a Christmas filled with holiday cheer.

Getting to Machu Picchu Citadel from Cusco

Getting to Machu Picchu Citadel from Cusco

Hiking an original Inka Trail en route to Machu Picchu CitadelHiking to Machu Picchu vía the famed Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, or other increasingly popular scenic treks such as the Salkantay Trail and the Choquequirao Trek, is an unforgettable experience, but for those with limited time or physical ability, there are other options as well. Travelers often opt for a one- or two-day train trip, or a combination trip often described as the “backdoor route” to Machu Picchu.

Taking the Train to Aguas Calientes

The main choices you need to make are theTrain from Cusco to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo) schedule, departure station, and the train service. First, you need to decide between an overnight trip or a one-day trip. By departing for Aguas Calientes in the afternoon or evening and spending the night there before visiting Machu Picchu, you ensure that you have more than enough time to explore the legendary citadel. You can also arrive before the crowds if you take the first bus at 5:10am, which will allow you to beat the trains. Lastly, if you wake up very early and hike up to the ruins rather than taking the bus, you might be lucky enough to catch the sunrise over Machu Picchu.

Conversely, doing it all in one day is rushed and riskier, and the necessity of only considering the earliest departure times and the latest return times often means you will have to pay more for the train tickets (as there are fewer service levels available at these times).

The foreign-owned Peru Rail owns all of the trains (including those with different names), and the lack of competition means that the train tickets are quite expensive. You’ll need to choose between three basic levels of service:

Train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo)Backpacker- The most economical option, although in no way uncomfortable. If you want drinks or snacks, you must bring them.
Vistadome- Boasts more space and serves small snacks and drinks. Windows in the roof means better views of the surrounding countryside during the journey. Prices vary by departure time, but it costs almost 50 USD more than the Backpacker.
Hiram Bingham- The most luxurious service, costing as much as 700 USD.

Trains to Aguas Calientes leave daily from Poroy Station and the town of Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Poroy is located 20 minutes outside of Cusco, but the ticket generally includes bus transport from Cusco. Not only is this significantly more expensive, but during the rainy season it’s much less reliable, and the trip takes much longer. If possible, opt for transport to Ollantaytambo 90 minutes outside of Cusco (there are taxi and bus options), followed by the train. Trains depart from Ollantaytambo station more frequently, meaning there are more departure time options as well as lower prices.

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Getting to Aguas Calientes By Car

You cannot reach Aguas Calientes by car Walking along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes, Perualone, but you can cover a large part of the trip this way. It’s more time-consuming, but it’s the cheapest method. Basically, it involves traveling by minibus from Cusco, through the towns of Santa Maria and Santa Teresa. You can go as far as the Hydroelectric Station, a trip that takes 6-7 hours and costs around 15 USD. From there, you can walk for 2 ½ to 3 hours to arrive at Aguas Calientes. Or, you can take the train for around 15-18 USD.

You might actually get a cheaper price with a local travel agency, who can bundle the minibus, train, and bus tickets with accommodation in Aguas Calientes and the Machu Picchu entrance at the preferential rates they receive.

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Of the different ways to reach Machu Picchu, this one is most vulnerable to delays during the rainy season, due to road conditions and landslides (although these can train travel as well).

From Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu Citadel

Machu Picchu CitadelFrom Aguas Calientes, there are two ways to reach the ruins: a 20 minute bus trip (9.50 USD) or a hike. Buses leave from 5:30am on, departing as soon as they fill up and continuing for as long as the archeological complex remains open.

It takes from 1 to 2 hours to cover the 5 mile route, which is somewhat strenuous due to a multitude of stairs. Setting off at around 4:40am will allow you to reach the top before sunrise.