Browsed by
Tag: Lima

Peru Travel, Pt 1: What to Eat in Peru

Peru Travel, Pt 1: What to Eat in Peru

Cuy ChactadoFood is our common ground, a universal experience. – James Beard

One of the best ways to get to know the country you are visiting in is to indulge in the food- in the restaurants, in the streets, in family homes. In Peru, there’s no scarcity of food to explore. It’s diverse landscape and rich cultural history has given it a broad cuisine boasting Andean, Amazonian, Asian, and European influences.

Ceviche: Considered the nation’s banner dish,  it is a preparation of raw fish tossed in a spicy citrus marinade. (The acid in the fruit softens and slightly ‘cooks’ it.) It’s generally served with a soup (chilcano) and a drink (leche de tigre) made of the leftover marinade, and sweet potato or choclo, large Andean corn. A tasty Nikkei (Japanese Peruvian) variation is tiradito, which is like sashimi but served with a spicy sauce.

Where to Try It: Lima, Trujillo, and the other coastal cities. (Ceviche in the Andes is made of river fish, and the longer marinating time makes it a different dish altogether.)

Cuy: The large guinea pigs of the Andes are bred purely for food, and are in fact Peru’s most infamous traditional fare. Although it’s considered a delicacy worthy of holidays and other important celebrations, it is the most acquired taste of any of the dishes on our list. Most travelers who say it are surprised by the lack of meat, but locals enjoy this dish by eating all of its components and sucking the bones. It’s a gamey meat not unlike rabbit, but much depends on the preparation.

Where to Try It: In Cusco, cuy is eaten roasted whole, its intestines mixed with minty green huacatay. Though it boasts the most visually impressive preparation, and is the choice of hardcore travelers, it isn’t the tastiest…go easy on yourself by waiting until Arequipa and trying cuy chactado, which is flattened and fried. Or, the most squeamish might consider indulging in Lima’s high fusion cuisine, with cuy ravioli and other delicate presentations that anybody would love.

Causa: A layered casserole of mashed potatoes, avocado, tuna or meat, and hard-boiled egg. It can be slightly spicy depending on the preparation, but as it’s served cold it’s still refreshing.

Where to Try It: This dish is most associated with Lima.

Lomo Saltado: This stir-fried beef dish is a Chinese-Peruvian creation often mixed with fries and served with rice.

Where to Try It: The capital of Peru’s fusion cuisine is Lima.

Ají de Gallina: Shredded chicken or hen is bathed in a creamy yellow sauce of hot pepper, milk, cheese, and bread. The first meal I ate upon arriving in Cusco, and still a favorite. Don’t miss it.

Where to Try It: Ají de Gallina varies very little by city, and you’ll find it in all of Peru’s cities.

Anticuchos: Peruvian shish kebabs are prepared with a variety of meats, although beef heart is considered the most traditional and delectable. Beef, chicken, and sausage are often available, so it sometimes takes time to work up the courage to go for the heart, but the velvety texture of freshly prepared beef heart makes it worth it when you do.

Where to Try It: If you’re interested in sampling the street food, this is one of the safest options (as compared to fried foods, which can attract a lot of bacteria if they’re left to cool before consumption). You can find tasty anticuchos anywhere in Peru, although if you’re in the Ica region, the cradle of Afro-Peruvian culture that would be the most traditional choice.

Rocoto Relleno: Although it resembles a red bell pepper, the pepper used in rocoto relleno is spicy. After being boiled to tame its heat, it’s stuffed with ground beef and egg, then topped with cheese and backed.

Where to Try It: The best place to try it is Arequipa

Alpaca: The meat of this South American camelid is leaner and gamier than beef, somewhat like buffalo.

Where to Try It: Although Lima and Cusco have delectable options as well, Arequipa has some of the country’s most renowned alpaca restaurants.

Pollo a la Brasa: Roast chicken may not seem foreign enough to make it onto your travel food wishlist, but the marinade used before the meat is put on the spit gives Peruvian Pollo a la Brasa a distinct smoky flavor.

Where to Try It: Alongside Peruvian Chinese joints (Chifas), pollerías are among the most ubiquitous restaurants. Try it anywhere (although Cusco’s is quite nice).

Juanes: This spiced rice and chicken package is steamed in a bijao leaf. Although chicken is the most common, you can also find fish or yuca versions. The name is derived from John the Baptist (patron saint of the Peruvian Amazon), and the round bundle on a plate supposedly refers to the saint’s untimely end.

Where to Try It: Make sure to try this emblematic dish if you’re passing through the cities of the Peruvian Amazon: Iquitos, Tarapoto, or Puerto Maldonado.

10 Ways to Celebrate the Fiestas Patrias of Peru in Lima

10 Ways to Celebrate the Fiestas Patrias of Peru in Lima

Each July 28th, Peru celebrates the anniversary Jose de San Martín’s proclamation of independence in Lima’s Plaza de Armas, and on the 29th, honors its Armed Forces and National Police. It’s one of the year’s most important holidays, with many workers taking advantage of the long weekend to travel. Others enjoy the parades, music, food and dances to be had in their own cities. If you’re traveling during the days surrounding Fiestas Patrias, be aware that some shops and banks will only open for half a day or not at all. Buses and flights continue, but the increased demand due to the long weekend means higher prices and less availability.

In Lima, the first day begins with a 21-cannon salute and the raising of the flag, a Te Deum at the Lima Cathedral, and the president’s address to congress regarding the state of the nation. The following day is the Great Military Parade and, during election years, the new president is sworn in.

The first thing you’ll notice are the red and white flags fluttering festively along the city streets, and a party atmosphere throughout. Get into the spirit by donning your Peruvian flag, sinking your teeth into traditional treats, and raising a glass of the national liquor, pisco. Or better yet, check out our list of 10 ways to celebrate Fiestas Patrias in Lima:

10. Attend the Serenade in Parque de la Muralla (Free- July 27th)

On the eve of Independence Day, Lima sponsors a serenade known as Lima Salutes the Nation. Expect to see Afro-Peruvian Creole Music, Folkloric Bands, Marinera Dancers, and modern rock groups as well. It ends with a short fireworks display.

9. Watch the Fireworks (Free- July 27th)

Although the informal, not-quite-legal fireworks will begin exploding sporadically beforehand, the official show begins at midnight. You’ll be able to appreciate the show from the Plaza de Armas (Lima’s main square) and the surrounding streets.

8. Watch the Magical Water Circuit at Reserve Park’s “3D Spectacular” (4 Soles- July 27th)

In honor of Fiestas Patrias, the fountain park known as the Magical Water Circuit puts on a show of lights, music, and 3D footage of Lima’s Municipal Ballet, folkloric dances from around Peru, and other cultural standards. The park hands out the glasses and projects the show on the large Fantasia Fountain. Each show lasts 20 minutes and will run continuously throughout the long weekend, from 8:15pm to 9:15pm. You can also explore the rest of the park’s fountains and enjoy musical bands and traditional food.

7. Drink Pisco From the Central Fountain (Free- July 28th)

Lima celebrates Pisco Day on the 4th Sunday of July….this year, it falls on the same day as Fiestas Patrias! Most bars will offer specials on this day, but you can enjoy a free taste in the Plaza de Armas, where 2,000 liters of Pisco replace the water that normally runs through the historic fountain. This is generally accompanied by a Peruvian Paso Horse show and musical bands, but since it falls on the same day as Independence Day this year, expect a different- and better!- show.

 

6. Watch the Gran Corso (Free- Date To Be Announced)

serenata-de-lima-7The colorful floats, long dragons, costumed performers, and bands of the Gran Corso (Great Parade) stretch several blocks and snakes through downtown Lima, around Parque Kennedy in Miraflores, and into Barranco. Stake out a spot in Parque Kennedy to watch the parade, or walk down 28 de Julio Avenue in central Lima to see the floats lined up before parading. Miraflores’ neighboring barrio to the south, Barranco, has the least crowds, so for better visibility and photos, try watching from there.

The date varies throughout the week and hasn’t been anounced yet (last year it took place on Sun July 22nd), so you’ll need to ask; remember that many people will refer to it as the Corso de Wong, after the supermarket sponsor. It’s worth tracking down though- it’s the best parade of the Fiestas (as the military parade can be a bit…sober).

5. Sample Anticuchos & Other Traditional Foods (3-15 Soles, All Week)

Fiestas_Patrias_Lima_6Anticucho means cut stew meat in Cusco, and while you’ll find chicken, beef, sausage, and intestine, the most traditional choice is beef heart. During Inca times, the dish was prepared with llama, but the Afro-Peruvian population redefined it using the organ meats available to slaves during the colonial period. It can be intimidating to try, but they’re delicious and a great way to get into the Peruvian spirit. More anticuchos are consumed in July than during any other part of the year! You’ll find many vendors hawking them streetside.

In addition, Lima hosts a national food fair all throughout the week of Independence day, allowing you to sample goodies from the desert coast, the Andean range, and the Amazon jungle all in one place.

4. Toast with Pisco Sours or Ponche de los Libertadores

Peru’s national drink is the Pisco Sour, although another solid toasting choice is Liberator´s Punch, with which Congress has been toasting independence ever since the Lima City Council set the tradition during the first swearing of independence.

3. Visit Kennedy Park to View the Exhibitions (Free- All Week)

Visit the always-lively Kennedy Park, which will fill up with vendors and special exhibits celebrating Peruvian heritage.

2. Take Advantage of Free Offers (Prices & Dates Vary)

Museums generally offer free or discounted admission on the days of the long weekend surrounding the holiday, so make sure to check what’s on offer!

1. Watch Marinera Dances and Peruvian Paso Horses at Hacienda Mamacona

Lima’s Hacienda Mamacona (actually located a little outside of the city, but offering buses to the locale) offers a Peruvian Paso horse show along with folk dances and Peruvian food. Last year, it took place on July 29th. It’s a scenic locale steeped in Peruvian traditions, so if you’ve got a little more to spend, pay them a visit. Just look up videos and illustrated brochures of the event, and call if you’d like to reserve.

Best Time to Travel- When to Visit Peru

Best Time to Travel- When to Visit Peru

Best Time to See: The Andes

 Flying into Cusco peru Heading towards Mt Salkantay

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The vast Andean mountain range includes fertile valleys marked by patchwork subsistence farming, traditional adobe cities with cobblestone streets and colorfully dressed locals, and the Incan ruins of fortresses, temples, and terracing. The glacial peaks provide a scenic challenge to the most intrepid travelers, and the jungle brow (high-altitude jungle) and cloud forests help make the Andes the region housing the most microclimates in Peru. Travelers visit to explore the former imperial capital of the Inca Empire, Cusco, discover for themselves the iconic Machu Picchu Archeological Complex, and practice extreme sports along the mountainsides and river rapids.

The weather is extraordinarly varied, meaning that cold mornings and frigid nights can combine with sunny, very hot afternoons. During the rainy season, it can rain everyday of your stay, but generally in short bursts. Bring layers that will allow you to adjust to the temperature shifts, and don’t forget the sunblock even during the rainy season- the sun scorches at higher altitudes.

Dry Season: May to October 

thumbs up Inti Raymi Festival & Cusco’s Anniversary (June)
thumbs up Clearer TrailsThe Plaza de Armas of Cusco
thumbs up Better Views- especially Machu Picchu
thumbs up Hillsides Bloom (September)
thumbs down Higher demand & more crowding
thumbs down Higher prices

Wet Season: November to April

thumbs down Uncomfortable for hiking (muddy paths, potential Machu Picchu through the Vineslandslides)
thumbs down Clouded views
thumbs down Unexpected dangers & delays (flooded roads, derailed train tracks)
thumbs up Fewer people
thumbs up Great bargains
thumbs up New Years in Cusco
thumbs up Fiestas Patrias Independence Days throughout Peru Llama at Awanacancha near Cusco(April)

What to do: explore the Sacred Valley of the Incas, raft the Apurimac River rapids, hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, watch a traditional weaving demonstration, visit Sacsayhuaman Fortress, tour the former imperial capital of the Incas

Best Time to See: Desert Coast

Penguins of the Ballestas Islands misti  Boarding light aircraft in Nazca

 

 

 

Peru’s arid Pacific coast is home to the ancient cities of Chan Chan and Sipán, the Paracas   Reserve, and the Nazca Lines. While Nazca, Ica, and Paracas are hot and sunny throughout the year, epitomizing general conceptions of desert climes, you’ll notice some anomalies: Lima is very humid due to coastal fog and breezes from the Pacific, which regulate the city’s temperature so that it’s never too hot or too cold. Meanwhile, the cooling effects of the Humboldt current means you can see penguins off of the coast of Paracas, in the Ballestas Islands.

At least in Lima, one can categorize two seasons, summer and winter, with May and November acting as transitional months with dramatic temperature fluctuations:

Summer: December to April

thumbs up Temperatures average 78.8 F in Lima
thumbs up Clear skies most dayslima catheddral
thumbs up “Cielo de Brujas” famously colorful sunsets
thumbs down Crowded beaches
thumbs up Ica & Nazca dry and sunny throughout year

Winter: June to October

thumbs down Averaging 59°C in Lima
thumbs down Mainly gray skies in Lima
thumbs down Omnipresent coastal fog known as Garúain LimaCotahuasi Canyon
thumbs down Sandstorms in Paracas
thumbs up Ica & Nazca dry and sunny throughout year
thumbs up Beaches along the north still sunny
thumbs up Low Tourist Season- Less Crowding
thumbs up Low Tourist Season- More Bargains
thumbs up Better waves for surfing
thumbs up Bullfighting season in Lima
thumbs up Lord of Miracles Festival in Lima (Oct/Nov)
thumbs up St Rose of Lima Festival in LimaThe Oasis town of Huacachina

What to do: Hike one of the world’s deepest canyons, fly over the Nazca Lines, Sandboard giant sand dunes near Huacachina Oasis, surf in Mancora, watch the penguins and sea lions of the Ballestas Islands, tackle the glacial peaks of Chachani, bike down Misti Volcano

Best Time to See: The Amazon

Amazon river boat Brightly colored Amazon parrot Exploring Iquitos

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Amazon Rainforest houses an astounding diversity of exotic plants and animals, as well as tribes indigenous to the area, who still uphold their timeless traditions in the face of an ever-encroaching modernity. Although much of this treasure is forbidden to access in order to protect its pristine nature and delicate ecosystems, there is a border area where tourism and scientific study are permitted. (Between the two zones, there’s a buffer zone to protect the refuge area.) Along the rivers and the jungle paths of the outer zone, one can find commune with capybara, sloths, monkeys, and more.

In the rainforest, high heat, frequent rains and 85% humidity come with the terrain. Although a wet season and dry season is frequently referenced, there isn’t much actual variation in rainfall throughout the year. The river water levels, however, can vary up to 40 feet throughout the year, mainly due to runoff from snow melting along the eastern slopes of the Andes.

December Thru May: High Water SeasonFishing for Paiche in Iquitos  

thumbs up Cooler temperatures (averaging 86 F)
thumbs down Trails & paths flooded
thumbs down More mosquitoes
thumbs up More exuberant, blooming vegetation
thumbs up Carnaval (Feb/May)

Giant Ceiba Tree in IquitosJune Thru November: Low Water Season

thumbs down Higher temperatures (averaging 98 F)
thumbs up More trails & paths accessible
thumbs up Fewer mosquitos
thumbs up Better fishing
thumbs up Migratory birds in flight
thumbs down Less exubuerant vegetation
thumbs down Riverways not navigable
thumbs up More animals gather riverside (less dispersal due to loss of terrestrial water pools)
thumbs down San Juan Festival (end of June)

What to do: visit an indigenous tribal community to learn Giant Lily Pads in Iquitosabout their way of life, swim with pink dolphins, visit a macaw clay lick, fish for piranha, visit monkey island, go on night canoe trip to see glowing cayman eyes, watch the sun set over the Amazon River, visit traditional river house

A Peculiar Breed:The Dancing Stallions of Peru Compete This April

A Peculiar Breed:The Dancing Stallions of Peru Compete This April

Lima’s annual National Show and Competition is a major event in local cultural life, garnering a festival-like atmosphere and lasting a week each April. This year, the Official Peruvian Paso Horse contest will take place from April 14th through April 21st. As always, the site will be Mamacona Fair Center just south of Lima (near Pachacamac Archeological Complex).

Daily competitions are followed by evening concerts and other events celebrating the Peruvian coastal, or Criollo, culture. Highlights include a closing parade and prize ceremony accompanied by folkloric dancers and music as well as a food fair, and the 5th National Marinera on Horse & Foot Competition.

The compact Peruvian Stepping horse, more commonly referred to as the Peruvian Paso horse, is unique in the equine world- rather than the standard trot, it employs a peculiar parallel 4-beat sidestepping which aficionados know as the paso llano, or ambladura, the art of the synchronized gait mastered by breeders and riders known as Chalánes. The singular breed is the result of isolation along the desert coast of Peru and a 400 year process of selectively breeding Spanish and Berber horse breeds brought to the country during the Conquest.

The horses’ natural rhythm has won it popularity not only as a show horse, but also a dance partner… in shows and competitions throughout Peru, riders on horseback couple with women on foot in Marinera shows. It is the paso llano which gave rise to the Marinera, Peru’s national dance. Even the costumes worn by dancers are reminiscent of the chalán riders, comprising the saddle and its trimmings, white shirt and trousers, straw hat, vicuña poncho, handkerchief, boots and spurs.

If you’re interested in catching a glimpse of this side of Lima’s social year, you can arrange to be picked up in Miraflores, Lima (the most popular district for travelers to use as a base for their visit to the capital, and the neighborhood where both Pirwa Inclan B&B and Pirwa Prada Backpackers are located) for a ranch visit to learn about the horses and their history and training before continuing on to the National Contest. Ranches that participate in this sort of outing generally include lunch or dinner depending on the schedule (last year, departures were at 10am and 3pm).

For more info on this and other events and outings, don’t forget that Pirwa Travel Service has information counters in both of our hostels in Miraflores. Because we have locations in Lima, Cusco, Puno, Arequipa, Nazca, Machu Picchu, and La Paz, our travel specialists can assist with transport, entrances, treks, and tours throughout Peru and Bolivia.

Check out the following video (set to begin at 7:20s) for a close view of the special gait of the Peruvian Paso Horses:

Lima Backpackers: Spending Valentine’s Day in the City of Kings

Lima Backpackers: Spending Valentine’s Day in the City of Kings

The popularity of Valentine’s Day in Peru (where you’ll most likely hear it referred to as Día del Amor) is still on the rise, with exorbitantly priced roses flooding the marketplaces. Last year, February 14th was declared a national holiday- although it was in recognition of Puno’s famous Virgin of Candelaria Festival rather than everyone’s favorite Hallmark holiday. Many hotels, restaurants, and agencies offer over the top expensive packages for the occasion, but for those of you currently on the road, we thought we’d give a quick primer on Lima for Backpacking Couples.

Among the city’s neighborhoods, Miraflores and Barranco are solid choices. Miraflores, with its long walkway along the seaside cliffs and its many parks and gardens, is often referred to as the greenest area in Lima. One obvious stop is Parque de Amor (Love Park), which opened in Valentine’s Day 1993 and can be instantly recognized by its large statue of two lovers, The Kiss. Surrounding the statue are brightly tiled walls reminiscent of Gaudi and covered in evocative Spanish literary quotes that are fun to peruse for the bookish among us, such as Alberto Vega’s “My dream is a lost island”. The park boasts an unbeatable view of the Pacific Ocean, making it popular with couples wanting to watch the sun set over the sea. Many brides also visit the park while taking their wedding photos. On Valentine’s Day, many couples visit the park to compete in the Longest Kiss contest.

Love Park is part of El Malecón Cisneros, a six-mile stretch of parks along a path following the cliffs overlooking the Pacific. Strolling the walkway is a pleasant, and not to mention free, way of getting to know Lima. Even better, and still a nice budget choice, is to bike it, so if you’re up for some nice scenery and a little exercise, think about renting a bicycle. If you crave a little more excitement, just a few minutes further up from the Parque del Amor is the jump-off site for Parasailing, where you can fly tandem with experienced parasailing guides. Also, as its summertime in Lima, you can arrange for a Surfing lesson, which range from US$10-$20, or rent some equipment.

Miraflores also has the most lively park in Lima, Kennedy Park, which is always bustling with people, artists, musicians playing creole music, jugglers, and other street performers. Expect lots of the surrounding bars and clubs to be celebrating, such as Barbilonia Bar with its “Power Ballads” night, although most do have covers. Just beware the roving rose sellers should you choose to kick back in the park for a while.

You’ll find both of Pirwa’s hostels in Lima a short walk from Kennedy Park, Pirwa Inclan B&B and Pirwa Prada Backpackers. Not only are we ideally located in what most consider to be the best base from which to explore Lima, the neighborhood of Miraflores, but we’re also close to a variety of Valentine’s options!

The neighborhood right next to Miraflores is Lima’s most bohemian and artistic, Barranco, right next to Miraflores. The streets of this small neighborhood are probably the most colorful and charming of all of Lima. If you find yourself passing through, do plan to make a stop at another landmark born of Valentine’s Day, the wooden Bridge of Sighs, which spans the Bajada de Baños, a stone walkway descending to the beach. Dining in Chala with a view of the Bridge of Sighs and the ocean even made Time’s list of 10 Things to do in Lima, but unfortunately most area restaurants should be booked up by now, so seaside dining might not be an option. If Chala’s a no go, don’t fear- the area is packed with restaurants and bars. And, if you need a little relationship help, keep this in mind: the  legend is that if you can walk across the Bridge of Sighs for the first time without taking a breath, your wishes will come true…

Although it looks like there aren’t as many activities on offer this year as last, the Magical Water Circuit at Reserve Park will be putting on another show, beginning with puppets for the kids at 6pm before transitioning into concerts for the adults. A detailed program hasn’t been made available, although the coordinated light, laser, and music show at Fantasia Fountain generally takes place at 7:15pm, 8:15pm, and 9:30pm. Entrance to the park is S/4.00 (soles).