La Paz – Page 4 – Pirwa Hostels BLOG

Bolivia Travel: A Day in La Paz

July 17, 2013 Pirwa

Despite the difficult altitude and cold winds, La Paz has a lot to offer young travelers. Don’t just whiz by en route to Copacabana, Uyuni, or the Amazon– stop and explore. Visit the Wrestling Cholitas, browse the Witches’ Market, or learn to mountain climb. If you’re planning on spending some time in La Paz, make sure to check out our recommendations:

All in One Day: Daytrips from La Paz

La Paz offers a assortment of memorable day trips. Among the most popular is the infamous Death Road, where travelers seeking thrills and glory throw themselves into an adrenaline-packed downhill biking adeventure, racing through waterfalls, around takes you through waterfalls and along sharp curves with steep drops.

Active travelers can even tackle some of the the city’s surrounding peaks, from the icy but beautiful Willa Mankilisani, or the Pico Austria summit with its pristine mountain lakes and expansive views. More relaxed trips include a visit to the Ruins of Tiwanaku about 45 miles west of La Paz, horseback riding along the Muela del Diablo (Devil’s Tooth), and walks up to Chacaltaya glacier (for mountain climbers’ views without the actual climbing) together with the Valley of the Moon.

Eating, Drinking & Dancing in La Paz

La Paz offers a surprising amount of international fare alongside Bolivian food. Try the fixed-menu restaurants for a cheap and authentic lunch (under Bs10), but be sure to use common sense and choose notably clean sites. For a snack, salteño empanadas are a must. Another traditional choice are humintas, slightly sweet tamales based on ground fresh corn (rather than dried) and cheese.

Although it costs a little more than the fixed-lunch places try something different at Papaya’s Café in the Folkloric Museum on Calle Jaen and Sucre, where you can try llama burgers and homemade Saya beer. Vegetarians shouldn’t miss Namas Te, which is known for the city’s best vegetarian lunch menus. If you’re eager to try one of the fancier places in La Paz’s burgeoning dining scene, head down Prado, around the Isabel La Católica and Avaroa plazas. Whatever you’re dining on, try washing it down with the peanut drink known as Chicha de Mani, the sweet purple corn drink known as Api, or the local standard, Paceña Beer.

La Paz’s nightlife is varied. Music clubs known as peñas offer folkloric Andean music and dance (try notables like Huari on Calle Sagarnaga or Marka Tambo on Calle Jaen), while modern bar and dance club Mongo’s (Hermanos Manchego 2444) serves up a lively scene where you can meet both locals and travelers. A special mention should be made for the great drinks at Pomp Pomp Salty Man, because with a name like that it’s irresistible.

For affordable lodging, visit Pirwa La Paz, located just a 3-minute walk (a block and a half) from the La Paz Bus Terminal, the TAM airline office, and Plaza San Francisco, which boasts a variety of tourist attractions. Just a few minutes further and you’ll reach some of the city’s best museums as well as the main shopping area for souvenirs. Not only is Pirwa Hostel La Paz comfortable and centrally located, but Daniela and the rest of the staff would be pleased to help you plan your excursions throughout Bolivia, or even show you the town’s nightlife!

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Border Crossing: From Puno Peru to La Paz Bolivia

September 12, 2012 Pirwa

Getting a mummy's-eye view at the Sillustani Chullpas in Puno, Peru — Getting a mummy’s-eye view at the Sillustani Chullpas in Puno, Peru

So you’ve been enjoying your stay Puno, visiting the Floating Islands of Uros and the Sillustani Burial Towers while relaxing in the evenings at Pirwa Puno Hostels. Good times, but perhaps you’ve begun to set your sights on that promising border with Bolivia….

For the first time border-crosser, it can be intimidating. Those delicious salteñas paceñas won’t come to you though, so here’s our primer and tips on getting from Puno to La Paz:

Tourist-Class Buses

Affordable Bus Travel in Peru — Bus Travel in Peru

The most common way to cross the border into Bolivia from Peru is a tourist-class bus from Puno to Copacabana vía the border town of Yunguyo. Some travelers stop off at Copacabana to explore the Isla del Sol, Sun Island, in Lake Titicaca and the smaller Isla de la Luna (Island of the Moon), while other continue on directly to La Paz. The 7 hour Puno – Yunguyo – Copacabana – La Paz route boasts views of scenic lakeside villages and a ferry rid across Tiquina Strait. Go with a well-recommended bus company, after all, you’ll be sitting there for seven hours. Some options are Panamericano, which leaves Puno at 7:30am each morning, and Tour Peru which departs for Copacabana and La Paz daily as well.

The direct route from Puno to La Paz crosses the border at Desaguadero rather than Yunguyo, but scenic it is not….Desaguadero is known for being a small, dirty, and unattractive bordertown. However, your total trip time would be 5 hours, and the buses pass the ruins of Tiwanaku en route. Ormeño buses leave Puno at 5:45am each day.

Stop in Copacabana to visit Sun Island before continuing to La Paz!

Local Buses

If you’d rather have the option to stop in any towns along the way that interest you, you can opt for the small local buses known as colectivos, which leave from the local bus station on the intersection of 1 de Mayo and Bolivar, two blocks away from Puno’s Terminal Terrestre (main bus terminal). This is a cheaper option, but you must be wary of pickpockets and may need to deal with uncomfortable overcrowding.

2½hr      Puno – Yunguyo Trip:            US$3.00
30min     Yunguyo – Copacabana:       US$0.50
5hr          Copacabana – La Paz:            US$4.00

If your goal is the cheapest possible transport, go local and cross at Desaguadero- the local buses are slower though. Buses leave from Puno to Desaguadero throughout the day (US$2.00 for a 4hr trip) and from Desaguadero to La Paz (US$3.00 for a 4hr) up until 5pm.

Crossing the Border into Bolivia

The Peru-Bolivia border is open from 8am–midday and from 2pm–7:30pm. From either side, it’s a mostly stress-free process that won’t take more than half an hour if your passport and tourist visa are in order. When you enter Peru, you receive a 90 day tourist visa which you must present upon entering the country; when you enter Bolivia, you receive a 30 day tourist visa- these are stamped upon exiting the countries. Keep the following tips in mind:

You can save time at the border by completing your visa form for entering Bolivia online.
North & South Americans, New Zealanders, and Australians won’t need entry visas, but French nationals must arrange this ahead of time.
United States citizens are charged a hefty entry tax- US$135.00, so make sure you bring enough money. Torn, ripped, or merely old bills will be declined, so keep it pristine and as close to exact change as you can.
Upon entering Bolivia, they ask for 2 passport-sized photos for your visa, but if you don’t have them they can try to match you up with the closest match from the leftover pile….
Save yourself the time and hassle of crossing back to Peru just to make photocopies of your passport or visa! Bring them with you
Officially, border officials can ask about the following: your hotel reservation, itinerary, yellow fever vaccination, and even request proof of economic solvency in the form of a credit card copy or bank statement. Very rarely does this happen….but it’s possible.

You made it to La Paz! Now what?…

Left to Right: Wrestling Cholitas, On top of the world at Huayna Potasí, Gazing into the Abyss at Death Road, Bridge Swinging in La Paz

Once you get to La Paz, there’s a whole new world open to you. You’ll want to take it easy for a few days to adjust to La Paz’s high altitude, going for easy day trips like visiting Moon Valley or taking in a Cholitas Wrestling show. After you’ve been fully acclimatized, you can up the ante. Outdoorsy types can hike Bolivia’s popular Huayna Potosí or up to pristine Glacier Lagoon for expansive views like no other. Thrill-seekers can go extreme, biking down the World’s Most Dangerous Road or Bridge Swinging, which is literally throwing yourself of a high bridge with an elastic cord about your chest and waist. If you want help arranging any of these excursion, you can get in touch with Pirwa Travel Service.

While looking for a place to stay in La Paz, you won’t have to go far to find Pirwa La Paz located just a block and a half from the La Paz bus terminal. We’re also just a few blocks from major attractions like San Francisco Church, tourist one-stop-shopping Sagarnaga Street, and Plaza Murillo. With a variety of affordable shared dormitories and private rooms, all with hot water access 24/7 and comfy beds, as well as a TV & movie lounge, patios, bar, free internet & wi-fi, secure luggage storage, free continental breakfast, and a friendly staff that can help you organize your trip!

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Inimitable Pirwa La Paz!

July 2, 2012 Pirwa

If you haven’t had a chance yet to check out the newest hostel in the Pirwa Family, Pirwa La Paz, then let us introduce you! We’re enviably located right in central La Paz, with restaurants, cafes, nightlife, ATMS and other services just a short walk away!

We’re only a block and a half away from the La Paz bus terminal, so depending on your arrival time, if you’re coming in by bus and let us know your arrival details, we can come pick you up free of charge.

The hostel boasts a mix of private rooms or shared dormitory accommodations with private or shared bathrooms, all with access to hot showers 24/7 and comfortable beds with semi-orthopedic mattresses and down pillows.

Challenge your fellow travelers to some games in the TV Lounge or throw a BBQ in the backyard the patio, relax with some drinks at the bar, or update your travel blog using our free Internet and Wi-Fi. When you’re ready to go out and explore Bolivia, our in-house travel agency, Pirwa Travel Service, can provide you with all the travel information and excursions you desire. While you’re out, lockers in the rooms and in reception offer you security for your valuables, along with convenient free storage for your luggage during longer excursions.

If you’re planning your trip to Bolivia and are in search of a fun, comfortable, secure, and economical place to stay, look no further than Pirwa La Paz!

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Carnaval La Paz II: A Colorful Cast of Misfits!

January 16, 2012 Pirwa

We wrote earlier about the special character and whimsy of Carnaval in La Paz, Bolivia, and thought we’d follow that up with a rundown on who you’re likely to see there…..

Pepino (The Prankster)

The Pepino is the principal character of La Paz’s Carnaval, a mestizo fusion of the Spanish harlequin and the Andean Kusillo. In his multicolored costumed adorned with jangling bells, a mask, streamers and whistles, he plays pranks on the crowd, whom sprays with water, colored flour and confetti, hits with his “mother-in-law killer” club of cloth-covered sponge, inviting participants to dance. A Pepino costume is unearthed each year in the General Cementery of La Paz to initiate Carnaval. During his short but mischievous life the Pepino must marry, and he’ll be buried anew to bring Carnaval to a close.

Ch’uta (The Merry Womanizer)

The woman-chasing Ch’uta arose in the 18^th and 19^th century, wearing a mask with a rosy face, blue eyes, and laugh all meant to imitate the Spanish lord. Changes to the Ch’uta’s outfit over time has left him with a vest reminiscent of a matador’s coat, pants with openings on both sides as well as bells and ribbons, the lluch’u ccapand ch’uspa. Today brightly colored beards are also the norm.

The Ch’uta Cholero is a recent variant of the traditional Ch’uta character that never fails to animate the crowd, dancing to the rhythm of the music in a lolling dance simulating a euphoric or drunken state and accompanied by two women- the one he left in the country and the one he found in the city; sometimes he might invite a couple to join him, but he is always well-accompanied.

He appears on the Sunday of Temptation for the Ch’uta’s parade, on hand to help bury the Pepino.

Kusillo (The Aymara Ancestor)

The Kusillo is the oldest of these characters- during the times of the Aymara he would pop up throughout Bolivian altiplano during the Anata Festival celebrating the beginning of the harvest season and the arrival of the rains. He wears a bi-color mask with prominent nose and 3 to 5 horns.

Cholas (the Women of La Paz!)

Prancing on the arms of the women-loving Ch’utas, participating in the Pepinos’ obligatory marriages, parading through the Plaza Murillo asking for their widows’ rights following the symbolic burial of the Pepino- without the wide-skirted, bowler-hatted Bolivian Chola, Carnaval is not complete!

Alongside these principal characters are others of pre-Columbian or colonial origin, as well as modern costumed heroes and personalities from national politics. Remember to check our earlier posts for tips on enjoying La Paz’s Carnaval- and because this is the largest festival of the year for La Paz, make your plans as soon as possible! At Pirwa La Paz Hostel, we still have rooms available- all complete with comfy beds, hot water 24/7, internet + wifi, and a continental breakfast all at rock-bottom prices!

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Colorful Carnaval in La Paz

January 11, 2012 Pirwa

Pirwa La Paz is going to be celebrating its very first Carnaval in La Paz this February! This is one of the largest events of La Paz’s year, with preparations beginning in advance. Thousands of dancers brighten the streets in their folkloric attire, while many revelers spray others with water, colored flours, confetti, and more! As in other South American countries, the Catholic pre-Lenten celebration of Carnaval in La Paz is fused with ancient customs and rites.

The Alasitas Market begins to pop up around January 24^th and continues throughout the Carnaval season. These miniature products represent the desires of their buyers; you can find cars, houses, fake money and more. The name comes from the Aymara chalayasita, an exchange of products, and the products are offered to the idol of Ekeko, a local pre-Columbian deity of abundance.

Carnaval festivities begin in earnest on a Saturday with the Children’s Parade. The day after is the Sunday of the Farándula, the Spectacular, when dance troupes flood the streets and the principal character of La Paz’s Carnaval appears in abundance: the Pepino! With colorful costume and jangling bells, a mask, streamers and whistles, he plays pranks on the crowd, whom sprays with water, colored flour and confetti, hits with his “mother-in-law killer” club of cloth-covered sponge, inviting participants to dance. In fact, Carnaval is not considered truly begun until this day, when a pepino costume is unearthed in the General Cementery of La Paz.

The dance troupes are composed of workers from different unions. They dance the Diabladas costumed as devils and angels, Morenadas costumed as slaves, and other dances involving Spanish conquistador costumes, indigenous clothing, masks of all varieties and often literally with bells on. Others dance in the familiar costume of the Andean woman: long-sleeved blouses, skirts with petticoats (but much shorter than the norm!), boots, and the discordant but omnipresent bowler hats.

Monday of Carnaval is reserved for the contest of traditional orchestras and national dances. Known as the Jisk’a Anata (Aymara for Small Game; this was the name of the pre-Columbian festival commemorating the harvest season.); it is known as the Carnaval of Yesteryear because in dress and style it looks back to the Carnaval of the 40s. On this day indigenous dances are performed, mainly by the surrounding rural communities, as well as colonial era dances. The pre-Columbian dances include the Qhanchwiris, Sicuris, Khantus and Tarkeadas, dances to the rhythm of indigenous wind instruments such as quenas, tarkas and zampoñas or sikus, and wankas (tambores). Colonial-era dances include the Morenada, where dancers take the character of the arriving slaves, and Caporales, where they represent the slave and estate owners. Although their origins span a large period of time, these elaborately costumed dances are all intimate parts of the folklore of La Paz and Bolivia.

Tuesday is dedicated to the pre-Columbian Ch’alla ritual offering to Pachamama, the Earth Mother deity, in hope of good fortune for the year. Assets are blessed amidst the usual revelry of partying, firecrackers, streamers, and confetti. Sometime throughout the week the Carnaval Queen is chosen, it is she who obligates the Pepino to marry.

The Carnaval ends on the Sunday of Temptation the following week with the Ch’utas Festival, with tens of thousands of Chutas grouped into 19 troupes. The first troupe receives the coffin holding a doll dressed as the Pepino, who will be carried on their shoulders to the General Cementery and buried anew.

The traditional music of La Paz carnaval, combines the Ch’uta’s Dance or Huayño Suave with Estudiantinas and Tarqueadas.

Tips for Enjoying the La Paz Carnaval!

The best vantage points are along the main thoroughfare, El Prada, or near the General Cemetery.
Moving around the center of La Paz will be easiest by foot, because the main avenues and streets are closed, with access for crossing only by special corridors opened during breaks between different dance groups.
Prepare for some extreme weather from strong sun in the afternoon to frequent rain and very cold evenings and mornings.
Oxygen is thin and you might have some issues acclimatizing
A change of clothes is advisable due to the roving attackers with water guns, water balloons, and even just buckets. Should the weather shift suddenly, as it’s apt to do, you’re going to want something dry!
As always, overcrowding means you need to be wary of pickpockets.

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