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What to do for National Pisco Day this July!

What to do for National Pisco Day this July!

Peru is so proud of its famous Pisco grape brandy that it boasts two national holidays: Pisco Sour Day on the first Saturday of February, and National Pisco Day on the fourth Sunday of July. This year, it falls on July 22nd.

Pisco, the only brandy made from pure grape juice as opposed to the skins and pressing, is aromatic with a complex taste. Pisco grew in popularity and renown during the 16th & 17th centuries as the Peruvian Viceroyalty became South America´s main wine producer, thanks to the robust production of Ica in the fertile Pisco Valley. As time passed, the production of Peruvian grape brandy increased. The Jesuits hawked it throughout Peru, and when the famous pirate Sir Francis Drake took hostages from the Port of Pisco in the 16th century, he extorted a handsome ransom of 300 bottles. Today, it is the national drink and a component of the country’s most iconic cocktail, the Pisco Sour.

1. Drink From Lima’s Fountain of Pisco

You can toast the capital (after all, this is the week of Peru’s Independence Day!) by sampling a glass from the Plaza Mayor’s fountain. On this day, rather than water, it will be spouting more than 2000Lt of Pisco. It’s a unique way of celebrating the day, so stop by and, resisting the urge to jump in, have a taste.

 

2. Pub Crawwwwwllllll

Drinks will be flowing all over Lima, so look for freebies from promoters in the parks and plazas as well as half-priced specials in the bars and restaurants. Cusco is an excellent city for Pub Crawling, since most of the major bars and clubs are concentrated around the Plaza de Armas. If you’re interested in getting a group together, let them know in reception so we can go en masse!

3. Mix Your Own at the Hostels!

If you feel like staying in and testing your bartending skills, take advantage of our self-catering kitchens in our hostel locations to experiment a bit with the most classic Pisco cocktails!

  • Pisco Sour: Pisco, Lime, Cane Syrup, Egg White, Ice, and Aromatic Bitters
  • Canario: Pisco with orange juice.
  • Capitán: Aromatic Pisco with Vermouth.
  • Beatríz: Pisco, Granadine Syrup, Cream, Cinnamon & Cacao cream
  • Melate: Sweet Wine & Pisco
  • Biblia: Pisco, Port, Egg Yolk, Cacao Cream, Curasao, Cinnamon & Ice
  • Calentito: Pisco with lemon & hot tea
  • Chilcano: Aromatic Pisco with Ginger Ale, Aromatic Bitters, Lime & Ice
  • Pisco Punch: Pineapple, Lime Juice, Sugar, Acacia, Distilled Water

…..If things don’t work out, those of you staying in hostels with in-house bars such as Pirwa Inclan B&B, Pirwa Prada Backpackers, Pirwa Colonial Backpackers, and Pirwa Puno Backpackers have an easily accessible back-up plan at good prices!

The Parading Saints of Corpus Christi

The Parading Saints of Corpus Christi

Corpus Christi is fervently and uniquely celebrated in Cusco. Fourteen Saints and Virgins, one from each of the city’s parishes, are carried in colorful procession atop heavy litters borne by members of each brotherhood guild, who can prepare for up to a year, fundraising for the saint’s elaborate attire and other adornments. The festival calls back to pre-Columbian times of the Inca Empire, when lavishly attired and adorned mummies of the highest-ranking Incas and venerated ancestors were carried on litters throughout the main streets during festivals. Along these same streets the saints and virgins now parade. They are to stay the night in the Cathedral, where they will greet Corpus Christi, the body of Christ.

This Wednesday, June 6th, at 9am, the Corpus Christi Altars will be presented in their respective parishes. You’ll hear music emanating from the Cathedral- a call to the saints. The processions begin as all the saints make their way to the main square at 11am, each showing off the year’s new finery and accompanied by their faithful parishioners and a band. You’ll also hear the 16th century María Angola throughout the day, South America’s largest church bell. Traditionally, Saint Sebastian, who resides 5 km from the Cathedral, and Saint Geronimo, whose parish is twice the distance from the Cathedral, race to see who will reach the Cathedral first, with Saint Sebastian beginning his route in the early hours of the morning.

Meanwhile….two blocks down, in the San Francisco Plaza, the Chiriuchu food fair will appear in Plaza San Francisco. With a name meaning cold chili pepper, this is a cold dish that features roast guinea pig, boiled chicken ch’arki (jerky), chorizo sausage, Andean cheese, toasted corn, corn bread, seaweed, and roe all piled up together.  Sands will be set up throughout the square, with vendors serving up the most traditional meal of Corpus Christi. If it takes you a while to work up the courage, don’t worry, they’ll be there on Thursday too. Wednesday night families traditionally serve 12 dishes, but Thursday is about Chiriuchu. If you try a plate, wash it down with some beer or chicha, a fermented corn drink. Those of you staying at Pirwa Colonial Backpackers will find the food fair camped out right in front of the hostel in the next couple of days. If the guinea pigs don’t tempt you, you can always limit yourself to some interesting photo-taking…

The following day is the principal day of Corpus Christi: At noon on Thursday the 7th (after the Archbishop performs the Te-Deum at 8am) it´s time for the main event, when the saints all process together, led by the 18th century pure gold massif known as the Golden Sun of Custody. It holds the Host, is adorned with hundreds of pearls, diamonds, and other precious jewels, and is carried on a silver litter. All the saints and virgins will afterwards be placed upon their respective altars throughout the plaza, each decorated with mirrors, banners, flowers, and other ornaments. Keep your eyes peeled for costumed folkloric characters like ukukus, qollas, and pabluchas amongst the crowd.

The icons will stay for a week in the Cathedral, until the Octava, when they’ll process again amongst dancers performing the Mestiza Qoyacha and the Capaq Qoya before returning to their home parishes with their dancers and musicians.

All this takes place in Cusco’s main square, or Plaza de Armas, and in the surrounding main streets. You can expect the Plaza to fill as completely as possible with spectators both curious and devout. If you’re on ground level, of course be wary of pickpockets targeting cash and small electronics such as cameras, cell phones, and mp3 players. If you’re not up to jostling amongst the crowds for a view, remember the Pirwa Posada del Corregidor is located right in the Plaza de Armas, with an in-house restaurant whose windows overlook the square- it’s a great place to watch the festivities in a more comfortable setting!

Inti Raymi: The Inca Sun Festival in Cusco

Inti Raymi: The Inca Sun Festival in Cusco

The Incan Sun Festival

Each June, 50,000 spectators gather in Cusco to celebrate the Winter Solstice and kick off the Andean New Year during Inti Raymi, the Sun Festival. Honoring the supreme Inca deity, the sun, this was the year’s most important celebration in the time of the Inca Empire. Tradition holds that Inti Raymi dates back to Pachacutec, the first Inca. The celebration and rituals were repressed after the Spanish Conquest and through the Colonial period, but were reborn in 1944. Now, each year hundreds upon hundreds of actors, dancers, and musicians present a theatrical reenactment based on historical chronicles.

It all begins on June 21st, which was the first day of the Incan solar calendar and marks the winter solstice, with opening ceremonies throughout the week. You’ll see the streets fill with color and activity thanks to the numerous street fairs, free concerts, and elaborately costumed dancers. The Festival´s main day, falls on the Day of the Peasant (formerly celebrated as Day of the Indian), June 24th, which is also the anniversary of Cusco.

Getting Tickets

Acts I and II at Qorikancha Sun Temple and the Plaza de Armas are open to the general public. You’ll want to go early if you want to be able to see. (One benefit of getting your Inti Raymi tickets through an agency as part of a festival package is that you will usually get a private balcony from which to watch the celebrations in the Plaza.)

Tickets are sold for Act III at Saqsaywaman, where viewing platforms are arranged in three different zones. The cost of Act III, the central ceremony, ranges from $80 to $115 depending if you are in the Green, Blue, or Orange Platform. It’s limited to 3,859 spectators. Ticket costs include the official program/script in 3 languages and a DVD about the ceremony.

If you buy your tickets for Act III directly through the government agency with handles festivals, EMUFEC, payment is required in advance, by deposit into their account or through their online purchasing system. (Unfortunately, they’re taking their time…at the moment, the account information has not yet been published, nor the purchasing system activated!)

The 6 Day Inti Raymi Tour

Pirwa Travel offers both a shorter and longer Inti Raymi tour, the shorter of which includes the festival itself, including a packed lunch and knowledgeable guide, and ensuring balcony access overlooking the Plaza de Armas and seating at Sacsaywaman.

The longer, 6-day tour includes guided tours of the Sacred Valley of the Incas and Machu Picchu in addition to Inti Raymi. Those of you interested in a tour package, or assistance with specific elements of your trip such as transport, entrances, guided visits, and more, can get in touch with our travel department, Pirwa Travel Service at pirwatravel@gmail.com.

Travelers’ Tips

  • June is wintertime in Cusco, but the afternoon sun scorches and the temperature can spike up quickly in the afternoon.  Prepare for the variability of Cusco´s climate by dressing in layers to put on for the mornings and evening, and remembering the sun screen.
  • Cusco fills up quickly for Inti Raymi, as it also coincides with the travel industry’s “high season”- whatever you can arrange in advance, do. Especially lodging, train tickets, Machu Picchu entrances, and treks go quickly. (The Inca Trail sold out already! Perhaps you can find spaces in the shortened 2-Day trek, or alternative treks such as Salkantay or Inca Jungle.)
  • Packed streets, visual spectacles, and well-laden tourists….violence is not a worry but pickpockets are guaranteed, so watch outer pockets and bags, carry backpacks along your front or not at all, and guard your small electronics with care- cells, camaras, and mp3s are popular with thieves as they are easy to resell and bring a good price.
  • Tickets can be bought by those who want prime seating for the main ceremony at Sacsayhuamán.  Many, however, choose to simply gather in the surrounding area and hope to catch a glimpse of proceedings while picnicking along the hills.
  • Prices for transport, lodging, and food can soar in July due to the increased demand, so plan some flexibility into your budget. (Don’t worry- none of our Pirwa hostels raise prices during high season or festivals.)

Official Program: Inti Raymi’s Central Day

Friday, 24th of June 2012

08:15   The flag of Tahuantinsuyo, represented the united regions of the empire, is hoisted by 5th Mountain Brigade

08:30   Mass & Te Deum at the Basilica Cathedral, headed by Cusco’s Archbishop

09:00   Sun Greeting at Qorikancha

At Cusco’s famous Temple of the Sun, characters representing noble figures, the chosen women, the Inca’s entourage, and the royals themselves gather for the gather for Salute to the Sun. They arrive as the sounds of traditional Andean Instruments and conch shells fill the air, and exit along flower-strewn streets when they exit en route to the Main Square (Auqaypata). This lasts for half an hour.

11:00   Meeting of the Times at Auqaypata

The Inka and his entourage enter along Inti K’ijllu Street. The Inka will formally address Cusco’s mayor from his ushnu, a ceremonial platform constructed in the center of Cusco’s Main Square for the occasion. This lasts for 45 minutes.

13:30   Main Ceremony Sacsaywaman Fortress

The central ceremony lasts an hour and a half. It begins with the reports from the 4 Suyos (Regions), the Chicha Rite, Rite of Sacred Fire, Llama Sacrifice (simulated) and divining, the Sankhu (Sacred Bread) rite, and Q’ochurikuy (explosion of popular exhaltation). Expect llama viscera, bonfires, dancing, and more.

It doesn’t stop at Sacsayhuamán- the fun will continue throughout the following days through concerts, dancing, and fairs along Cusco’s main streets. Don’t miss the vibrancy, excitement and historical charm of South America’s 2nd largest festival!

Carnaval La Paz II: A Colorful Cast of Misfits!

Carnaval La Paz II: A Colorful Cast of Misfits!

We wrote earlier about the special character and whimsy of Carnaval in La Paz, Bolivia, and thought we’d follow that up with a rundown on who you’re likely to see there…..

Pepino (The Prankster)

The Pepino is the principal character of La Paz’s Carnaval, a mestizo fusion of the Spanish harlequin and the Andean Kusillo. In his multicolored costumed adorned with jangling bells, a mask, streamers and whistles, he plays pranks on the crowd, whom sprays with water, colored flour and confetti, hits with his “mother-in-law killer” club of cloth-covered sponge, inviting participants to dance. A Pepino costume is unearthed each year in the General Cementery of La Paz to initiate Carnaval. During his short but mischievous life the Pepino must marry, and he’ll be buried anew to bring Carnaval to a close.

 

Ch’uta (The Merry Womanizer)

The woman-chasing Ch’uta arose in the 18th and 19th century, wearing a mask with a rosy face, blue eyes, and laugh all meant to imitate the Spanish lord. Changes to the Ch’uta’s outfit over time has left him with a vest reminiscent of a matador’s coat, pants with openings on both sides as well as bells and ribbons, the lluch’u ccapand ch’uspa. Today brightly colored beards are also the norm.

The Ch’uta Cholero is a recent variant of the traditional Ch’uta character that never fails to animate the crowd, dancing to the rhythm of the music in a lolling dance simulating a euphoric or drunken state and accompanied by two women- the one he left in the country and the one he found in the city; sometimes he might invite a couple to join him, but he is always well-accompanied.

He appears on the Sunday of Temptation for the Ch’uta’s parade, on hand to help bury the Pepino.

 

Kusillo (The Aymara Ancestor)

The Kusillo is the oldest of these characters- during the times of the Aymara he would pop up throughout Bolivian altiplano during the Anata Festival celebrating the beginning of the harvest season and the arrival of the rains. He wears a bi-color mask with prominent nose and 3 to 5 horns.

Cholas (the Women of La Paz!)

Prancing on the arms of the women-loving Ch’utas, participating in the Pepinos’ obligatory marriages, parading through the Plaza Murillo asking for their widows’ rights following the symbolic burial of the Pepino- without the wide-skirted, bowler-hatted Bolivian Chola, Carnaval is not complete!

Alongside these principal characters are others of pre-Columbian or colonial origin, as well as modern costumed heroes and personalities from national politics. Remember to check our earlier posts for tips on enjoying La Paz’s Carnaval- and because this is the largest festival of the year for La Paz, make your plans as soon as possible! At Pirwa La Paz Hostel, we still have rooms available- all complete with comfy beds, hot water 24/7, internet + wifi, and a continental breakfast all at rock-bottom prices!

The Race of Kings in San Pablo: Cusco vs the Altiplano

The Race of Kings in San Pablo: Cusco vs the Altiplano

Photo by Luis Figeroa
Preparing the Whips and Conch Horns

On January 6th, in the high Andean town of San Pablo, between the departments of Cusco and Puno, a unique race will determine the following year’s luck for these two cities. Here, the three kings are not Melchor, Gaspar, and Balthazar, but rather Inkarri, Mistirri, and Negrorri (Inca King, Mestizo King, and Black King) and the three compete in a race on horseback.

 

Photo by Luis Figeroa
Herod and his Secretary directs the Kings in the Plaza

After a ceremony in the town’s Wilson Theater the whips and conch horns are arranged in preparation before the municipal authorities and the kings of the year. After a fortifying cup of hot almond ponche, the fully-costumed Kings make their way to the plaza for a comical dialogue with King Herod, who fears for his throne!

Photo by Luis Figeroa
Non-King Jockeys have their race as well

 

 

Around 2:30pm the race begins, with different stops where the communities of Langui, Layo, and Checca will compete. There’s a good deal of drunken revelry and hijinks throughout, as with all Peruvian celebrations- beer everywhere.

 

Photo by Luis Figeroa
Riders: Are you in it for the glory or are you in it for the Mayor's baby Jesus?

The race ends with the Virgen of Bethlehem and the Mayor and other authorities of San Pablo presiding. If Inkarri, who represents the valleys of Cusco, wins, it will be a good year for the harvests in the area around Cusco. If Mistirri wins, the altiplano (high Andean plains- higher than 4000 meters) benefits. That means it will be a good year for ranching and the llamas and alpacas will prosper. If Negrorri wins, it will not be a good year for either of the two regions, there will be scarcity in production, but strangely, they say that there will be money.

Photo by Luis Figeroa
Negrorri after the Race

 

This month is full of interesting Christmas and New Year’s related activities in Peru, and we’ll be hosting our own parties as well, so keep checking back as we’ll be posting that information soon!