festivals – Page 11 – Pirwa Hostels BLOG

This Month: The Feast of San Santiago & Taquile Textile Fair on Lake Titicaca

July 9, 2013 Pirwa

The Island of Taquile in Lake Titicaca has been inhabited for over ten thousand years, first by the Pukara culture before being integrated into the Tiahuanaco Kingdom and the Inca Empire. It has the distinction of being one of the final holdouts resisting the Spanish conquest. Although it was probably known as Intika during the Inca Empire, the island took its current name from Count Rodrigo of Taquila, who received the island after it fell to the Spanish.

After a brief stint as an island prison during the republic, ownership of the island of Taquile was returned to the local communities some decades ago. Today it houses a couple thousand Quechua-speaking residents spread throughout the various villages. Residents still don the Spanish peasant clothing they were forced to adopt after the conquest, combined with Andean ponchos, coca-leaf purses, and belts. The island’s day to day life is run though community collectivism and the economy relies mainly on fishing, terraced agriculture, and tourism.

Most visitors who visit Taquile due so as part of a tour including Amantani Island and the Floating Islands of Uros. The Uros islands are sometimes referred to as Peru’s “Disney experience”, but are considered an obligatory stop regardless because despite their increasingly touristic nature, they’re still a site like no other.

Meanwhile, the lesser-known Taquile is popular for the warmth of its people, its scenic hikes, and the very traditional and communal way of life of its inhabitants. If you visit Taquile without visiting the other islands first, it takes three hours to reach the island (although much less if you opt for a more expensive speedboat option.) One does not see dogs and cats on the island, as these are considered delicacies, and families must receive community permission to have one.

Each July 25^th through August 2^nd, Taquile honors its patron saint, the Apostle James (San Santiago). The night before the ascent of the saint on August 2^nd is marked by dances, serenades and fireworks, although if you visit anytime during this period you are likely to be treated to a festive atmosphere with abundant chicha (fermented corn beer) and a backdrop of Sikuris and others playing panpipes, Andean flutes, and drums while other perform the Candelaria, Cinta K´ana, Taquilean Carnaval, and other traditional dances.

The Taquile art fair takes place around the same time, from July 25^th through August 5^th.

Handwoven Taquilean textiles are considered some of the best handicrafts in Peru, UNESCO even declared the textile art of Taquile Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2005. While yarnmaking and weaving are considered female tasks, knitting is exclusively done by males. Alongside soapmaking, these are some of the traditional tasks you’ll be able to observe during your visit. During the art fair, you will find the families of the Artisan Association displaying their wares in the main square.

The festival ends with the offering to the Pachamama (the Andean version of the mother earth).

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10 Ways to Celebrate the Fiestas Patrias of Peru in Lima

July 3, 2013 Pirwa

Each July 28^th, Peru celebrates the anniversary Jose de San Martín’s proclamation of independence in Lima’s Plaza de Armas, and on the 29^th, honors its Armed Forces and National Police. It’s one of the year’s most important holidays, with many workers taking advantage of the long weekend to travel. Others enjoy the parades, music, food and dances to be had in their own cities. If you’re traveling during the days surrounding Fiestas Patrias, be aware that some shops and banks will only open for half a day or not at all. Buses and flights continue, but the increased demand due to the long weekend means higher prices and less availability.

In Lima, the first day begins with a 21-cannon salute and the raising of the flag, a Te Deum at the Lima Cathedral, and the president’s address to congress regarding the state of the nation. The following day is the Great Military Parade and, during election years, the new president is sworn in.

The first thing you’ll notice are the red and white flags fluttering festively along the city streets, and a party atmosphere throughout. Get into the spirit by donning your Peruvian flag, sinking your teeth into traditional treats, and raising a glass of the national liquor, pisco. Or better yet, check out our list of 10 ways to celebrate Fiestas Patrias in Lima:

10. Attend the Serenade in Parque de la Muralla (Free- July 27^th)

On the eve of Independence Day, Lima sponsors a serenade known as Lima Salutes the Nation. Expect to see Afro-Peruvian Creole Music, Folkloric Bands, Marinera Dancers, and modern rock groups as well. It ends with a short fireworks display.

9. Watch the Fireworks (Free- July 27^th)

Although the informal, not-quite-legal fireworks will begin exploding sporadically beforehand, the official show begins at midnight. You’ll be able to appreciate the show from the Plaza de Armas (Lima’s main square) and the surrounding streets.

8. Watch the Magical Water Circuit at Reserve Park’s “3D Spectacular” (4 Soles- July 27^th)

In honor of Fiestas Patrias, the fountain park known as the Magical Water Circuit puts on a show of lights, music, and 3D footage of Lima’s Municipal Ballet, folkloric dances from around Peru, and other cultural standards. The park hands out the glasses and projects the show on the large Fantasia Fountain. Each show lasts 20 minutes and will run continuously throughout the long weekend, from 8:15pm to 9:15pm. You can also explore the rest of the park’s fountains and enjoy musical bands and traditional food.

7. Drink Pisco From the Central Fountain (Free- July 28^th)

Lima celebrates Pisco Day on the 4^th Sunday of July….this year, it falls on the same day as Fiestas Patrias! Most bars will offer specials on this day, but you can enjoy a free taste in the Plaza de Armas, where 2,000 liters of Pisco replace the water that normally runs through the historic fountain. This is generally accompanied by a Peruvian Paso Horse show and musical bands, but since it falls on the same day as Independence Day this year, expect a different- and better!- show.

6. Watch the Gran Corso (Free- Date To Be Announced)

The colorful floats, long dragons, costumed performers, and bands of the Gran Corso (Great Parade) stretch several blocks and snakes through downtown Lima, around Parque Kennedy in Miraflores, and into Barranco. Stake out a spot in Parque Kennedy to watch the parade, or walk down 28 de Julio Avenue in central Lima to see the floats lined up before parading. Miraflores’ neighboring barrio to the south, Barranco, has the least crowds, so for better visibility and photos, try watching from there.

The date varies throughout the week and hasn’t been anounced yet (last year it took place on Sun July 22^nd), so you’ll need to ask; remember that many people will refer to it as the Corso de Wong, after the supermarket sponsor. It’s worth tracking down though- it’s the best parade of the Fiestas (as the military parade can be a bit…sober).

5. Sample Anticuchos & Other Traditional Foods (3-15 Soles, All Week)

Anticucho means cut stew meat in Cusco, and while you’ll find chicken, beef, sausage, and intestine, the most traditional choice is beef heart. During Inca times, the dish was prepared with llama, but the Afro-Peruvian population redefined it using the organ meats available to slaves during the colonial period. It can be intimidating to try, but they’re delicious and a great way to get into the Peruvian spirit. More anticuchos are consumed in July than during any other part of the year! You’ll find many vendors hawking them streetside.

In addition, Lima hosts a national food fair all throughout the week of Independence day, allowing you to sample goodies from the desert coast, the Andean range, and the Amazon jungle all in one place.

4. Toast with Pisco Sours or Ponche de los Libertadores

Peru’s national drink is the Pisco Sour, although another solid toasting choice is Liberator´s Punch, with which Congress has been toasting independence ever since the Lima City Council set the tradition during the first swearing of independence.

3. Visit Kennedy Park to View the Exhibitions (Free- All Week)

Visit the always-lively Kennedy Park, which will fill up with vendors and special exhibits celebrating Peruvian heritage.

2. Take Advantage of Free Offers (Prices & Dates Vary)

Museums generally offer free or discounted admission on the days of the long weekend surrounding the holiday, so make sure to check what’s on offer!

1. Watch Marinera Dances and Peruvian Paso Horses at Hacienda Mamacona

Lima’s Hacienda Mamacona (actually located a little outside of the city, but offering buses to the locale) offers a Peruvian Paso horse show along with folk dances and Peruvian food. Last year, it took place on July 29th. It’s a scenic locale steeped in Peruvian traditions, so if you’ve got a little more to spend, pay them a visit. Just look up videos and illustrated brochures of the event, and call if you’d like to reserve.

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Corpus Christi in Cusco

May 4, 2013 Pirwa

During the time of the Incan empire, holy days were celebrated with feasting and the procession of richly adorned mummies of venerated leaders and ancestors. These traditions continue today in the uniquely Andean Corpus Christi festivities, where Catholic virgins and saints raised upon heavy litters take over the storied streets in the city’s most important annual religious festival.

On Wednesday morning, May 29th, music will emanate from the Cathedral, calling the patron saints from Cusco’s parish districts. All 15 will answer the call to spend the night in the Cathedral with Corpus Christi, the Body of Christ. Those who find themselves among the faithful in the streets might be surprised to see the statues of St Sebastian (5km away) and St Geronimo (10km away) borne upon litters by two groups who traditionally race to reach the Cathedral first.

On the main day, Thursday, May 30th, around noon (after the Archbishop´s Te-Deum) all of the saints will process together, led by the 18^th century Golden Sun of Custody, a pure gold massif embedded with hundreds of pearls, diamonds, and other precious stones which holds the host and is carried in a silver carriage. Each statue’s litter is borne by brotherhood guild members who can prepare for up to a year for the event, fundraising to lavishly attire and adorn their saint. Each is also accompanied its own band and folkloric dancers performing the Mestiza Qoyacha and Capaq Qoya, among others.

Alongside the colorful processions, you’ll also see various costumed characters dancing and interacting: qollas, pabluchas, and ukukus among them. Guests at Pirwa Posada del Corregidor can watch the festivities from the window of our restaurant, Plus Café,where breakfast is served every morning and meals and drinks are on sale all day. Its balcony overlooking the Plaza de Armas is prime real estate during festival days, when the crowding on the ground can get a little intense.

While guests at Pirwa Posada del Corregidor can watch the festivities, guests at Pirwa Colonial Backpackers in Plaza San Francisco (2 blocks from the Main Square) will find the Chiriuchu Food Fair popping up at the hostel’s doorstep.Chiriuchu is Cusco’s traditional Corpus Christi meal, a cold dish of guinea pig, chicken, ch´arki, sausage, cheese, toasted corn kernels, tortillas, bread, etc. Give it a try, and don’t forget to wash it down with some beer or chicha.

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A Peculiar Breed:The Dancing Stallions of Peru Compete This April

April 10, 2013 Pirwa

Lima’s annual National Show and Competition is a major event in local cultural life, garnering a festival-like atmosphere and lasting a week each April. This year, the Official Peruvian Paso Horse contest will take place from April 14th through April 21st. As always, the site will be Mamacona Fair Center just south of Lima (near Pachacamac Archeological Complex).

Daily competitions are followed by evening concerts and other events celebrating the Peruvian coastal, or Criollo, culture. Highlights include a closing parade and prize ceremony accompanied by folkloric dancers and music as well as a food fair, and the 5^th National Marinera on Horse & Foot Competition.

The compact Peruvian Stepping horse, more commonly referred to as the Peruvian Paso horse, is unique in the equine world- rather than the standard trot, it employs a peculiar parallel 4-beat sidestepping which aficionados know as the paso llano, or ambladura, the art of the synchronized gait mastered by breeders and riders known as Chalánes. The singular breed is the result of isolation along the desert coast of Peru and a 400 year process of selectively breeding Spanish and Berber horse breeds brought to the country during the Conquest.

The horses’ natural rhythm has won it popularity not only as a show horse, but also a dance partner… in shows and competitions throughout Peru, riders on horseback couple with women on foot in Marinera shows. It is the paso llano which gave rise to the Marinera, Peru’s national dance. Even the costumes worn by dancers are reminiscent of the chalán riders, comprising the saddle and its trimmings, white shirt and trousers, straw hat, vicuña poncho, handkerchief, boots and spurs.

If you’re interested in catching a glimpse of this side of Lima’s social year, you can arrange to be picked up in Miraflores, Lima (the most popular district for travelers to use as a base for their visit to the capital, and the neighborhood where both Pirwa Inclan B&B and Pirwa Prada Backpackers are located) for a ranch visit to learn about the horses and their history and training before continuing on to the National Contest. Ranches that participate in this sort of outing generally include lunch or dinner depending on the schedule (last year, departures were at 10am and 3pm).

For more info on this and other events and outings, don’t forget that Pirwa Travel Service has information counters in both of our hostels in Miraflores. Because we have locations in Lima, Cusco, Puno, Arequipa, Nazca, Machu Picchu, and La Paz, our travel specialists can assist with transport, entrances, treks, and tours throughout Peru and Bolivia.

Check out the following video (set to begin at 7:20s) for a close view of the special gait of the Peruvian Paso Horses:

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Don’t Miss the Colorful Fiesta del Gran Poder in La Paz

April 4, 2013 Pirwa

The dates are set: this year, the Fiesta del Gran Poder (Festival of the All Powerful) festival will fall on Saturday, May 25^th. Aside from Carnaval, this is the city’s biggest celebration of the year- if you’re traveling through South America in May, do what you can not to miss it!

The festival’s roots lie in a painting of the holy trinity with Indian or mestizo features, painted by an unknown artist in the early 17^th century and donated by a novice nun to a La Paz convent upon her entrance to the institution. Over the centuries, the painting would change hands many times while the 2nd figure in its composition, Christ the All Powerful, acquired a reputation for granting miracles. In the 1930s, a church was founded in its name. Over the ensuing decades, a celebration which began as a modest candlelit procession and a few dancers evolved into a huge festival with a riotous street party feel and more than 60,000 performers organized into associations representing La Paz’s neighborhoods and groups.

Brightly attired dancers and musicians take part in parades and processions with representations of the image, showcasing the Bolivian folkloric culture. Many dancers wear voluminous Andean skirts and click matracas along to the music. Others don historically-inspired Conquistador, Inca, slave, and indigenous costumes. Each set of dancers is preceded and followed by its own brass bands.

In spite of costumes averaging 25.5kg, performers continue for 5 hours, following a route along the city’s central streets (in the popular zone) en route to the Hernando Siles stadium. Dancers hope that by promising to perform 3 years, their wishes will be granted by the miraculous image.

Bolivia has a strong folkloric tradition boasting iconic dances such as the Diablada (Devil’s Dance), reminiscent of when Bolivian miners would give coca leaf and other offerings to a diabolical figure- the mines’ guardian- in exchange for safe passage. Another popular dance is the Morenada (Dance of the Black Slave), with exaggerated masks and barrel-shaped attire. Costumes are unique to each dance; for example, in the Waca Takhoris (Dancing Bulls), dancers don the stuffed head and dried pelt of a bull, while many female Tinku dancers wear hats strewn with ribbons.

Travelers’ Tips

Banks will be closed, so make sure you have what you need beforehand.
Book your lodging in La Paz early to avoid escalating prices or unavailability.
Streets around the city center will be closed and congestion will be high- move around by foot if possible.
Stake out a spot early along the route. If you don’t mind paying, you can buy a seat in the stadium.
Be wary of pickpockets- secure cash and small electronics in inner pockets and take care of them.
Study up: Check out our earlier posts for info on crossing the Peru – Bolivia border and preventing altitude sickness.
At La Paz’s high altitude, don’t forgo the sun protection!