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Qoyllur Rit’i- Lord of the Snow Shine

June 9, 2011 Pirwa

A History Full of Legend…

Every year in Cusco´s Sinakara Valley there is an event like no other- Qoyllur Rit’i, the greatest indigenous pilgrimage in this hemisphere. More than 10,000 pilgrims hike the icy Ausangate, an ancient site of pilgrimage since pre-Columbian times and sacred site linked with the fertility of the land. The snowy Apu (Andean mountain deity), was thought to appear to peasants as a boy with white skin. The pilgrimage always happens around the time of the solstice, probably due to the pan-Andean fascination with the Pleiades constellation.

Christianity arrived to the sacred rock in the 1780s, when religious authorities ordered the painting of an image of a crucified Christ on the rock to give the site a Christian veil. This image became known as Lord of Qoyllur Rit’i (Lord of the Snow Shine). Legend now says that in 1780 a strange mestizo boy befriended an Indian boy on the Ausangate snow fields. The boy appeared emanating an intense white light. When Church officials tried to apprehend him, the boy transformed into a bush with the body of an agonizing Christ hanging from it. His Indian friend fell dead from grief and was buried under the stone where Christ had last appeared.

The Festival

This year´s pilgrimage begins on June 12th with a hike to the Sanctuary Shrine, passing 14 crosses over sheets of snow. Delegatio ns from Quechua and Aymara communities arrive carrying religious images to the Sanct uary. Individual pilgrims participate as well as large troupes of dancers and musicians. Pilgr ims pass the night inside the temple, warming themselves in the heat from thousands of candles offered by the devout in order to offset the glacial cold outside. Locals believe that those who attempt the Qoyllur Rit’i pilgrimage without faith will meet their deaths.

The numerous dance performances, processions, and Catholic masses are punctuated by some unique activities:

There´s the Alabacitas market, where miniature goods are bought and sold with Qoyllur Rit´i currency according to real-life wishes.
In the Burning of the Castles wooden constructions built with fireworks are set alight.
In the “Game of Little Houses”, pilgrims construct miniature building a few inches in height in order to ask the Lord of Qoyllur Rit’i for real-life property. Some merely draw their wishes: a home, a child.
You´ll see lots of costumed characters from Quechua mythology throughout the event. One of these, the ukukus, have the task of retrieving crosses and block of glacial ice for use as for use as holy water in the year to come and for symbolic irrigation of their land.

After the Blessing Mass there´s a “24-hour” procession passing Calvario Machacruz, the Kumukasa lagoons and Alqamarina sectors en route to Yanacocha (approx. a 6 hour hike). After a 3-4 hour nap the Night Hike to Tayancani begins, with the Sun Greeting Ceremony en route. At Tayancani there will be a blessing to the Sanctuary and village.

Tips for Travelers

Soroche (Altitude Sickness) can cause fainting- if you´re concerned about the altitude buy one of the mini-oxygen tanks available in Cusco´s pharmacies. (Don´t worry, they´re bottle-sized.)
Surusppi, irritation of the eyes by the reflection of the sun on the snow, is also a problem. Bring some good sunglasses to be on the safe side.
Prepare for COLD- good jackets, thermal underwear, and a below-20 sleeping bag
The main ceremony is held at the foot of Mount Ausangate, at 4,700m, where temperatures often plunge below freezing.

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Inti Raymi- The Incan Festival of the Sun

June 7, 2011 Pirwa

Inti Raymi (Quechua for Sun Festival) honors Inca theology´s supreme deity, the sun. The celebration begins on June 21^st, which was the first day of the Incan solar calendar as well as the winter solstice. This is New Years Day- the Inca Edition. During the time of the Inca Empire, this was the most important ceremony of the year. Tradition holds that it dates back to the first Inca, Pachacutec, although its observation was forbidden by the Spanish during the time of the conquest. Since its rebirth in 1944 Cusco has presented a theatrical reenactment of the opening ceremonies based on the chronicles of Garcilazo de la Vega. Come watch Cusco come alive as more than 50,000 spectators witness and more than 500 actors, dancers and musicians perform. After the opening ceremonies festivities continue throughout the week, with elaborately costumed dancers, street fairs, and free concerts.

A Trip Through Time

The week´ s events are kicked off at the impressive Temple of the Sun, Qorikancha, by the ceremony proper. Cusco travels back in time as characters representing the most important function aries and nobility of the Incan empire appear among the music of the conch shells, quepas, and tamborcillos, culminating with the appearance of the Inca, who calls on the blessings of the sun. Afterwards the procession directs itself along flower-strewn streets towards the Plaza de Armas (Cusco´s main square), where a large huaca (Incan altar) has been constructed for the coca ritual, where a priest divines the will of the Sun: good fortune, but conditional upon the sacrifice of a llama. The entire coterie continues on to the fortress of Sacsayhuamán just outside the city for the main part of the ceremony. Here the Inca will perform the chicha de jora (fermented corn drink) rite, a (realistically faked) black llama sacrifice, and the rite of fire. Actors dance around burning stacks of straw while priests divine the Incas future from the llama blood and viscera, and from the smoke released when the heart is thrown into the main, sacred bonfire. When the I nca shows satisfaction, the place erupts in jubilation. A fter the main day of ceremonial events, the fun continues through fairs, dances through the streets, and free concerts which fill the streets.

Travelers´ Tips

This is t he 2^nd largest festival in South America and rooms get scarce- just this once, you´ll want to book in advance.
More than any other time of year, the streets of Cusco are packed with people- dancers and musicians in the streets and spectators crowding the sidewalks- this is the time to be especially wary of pick-pockets counting on your distraction.
Tickets can be bought by those who want prime seating for the main ceremony at Sacsayhuamán. Many, however, choose to simply gather in the surrounding area.
Expect prices to soar in keeping with the demand…train and bus tickets, rooms, food- everything costs more. (Don´t worry- Pirwa´s prices will stay the same throughout the festivities.)
June is wintertime in Cusco, but the cold tends to be limited to the morning and evenings, and the afternoon sun can still scorch. Prepare for the variability of Cusco´s climate by dressing in layers and remembering the sun screen.