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Celebrate the Fabled Inti Raymi Sun Festival in Cusco

Celebrate the Fabled Inti Raymi Sun Festival in Cusco

Inti Raymi Sun Festival in Cusco, PeruThe biggest yearly event in Cusco, the Inti Raymi Sun Festival, is almost here! The Inti Raymi Sun Festival has been celebrated each Winter Solstice since the ascendancy of the Inca. From the different regions of Peru, the faithful gathered to honor the Sun God, the Pachamama Earth Mother, and the Sapa Inca with sacrifices, to divine the future, and to celebrate abundance. Fasting was followed by feasting, and the night ended with dancing around bonfires.

Getting to Machu Picchu Citadel from Cusco

Getting to Machu Picchu Citadel from Cusco

Hiking an original Inka Trail en route to Machu Picchu CitadelHiking to Machu Picchu vía the famed Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, or other increasingly popular scenic treks such as the Salkantay Trail and the Choquequirao Trek, is an unforgettable experience, but for those with limited time or physical ability, there are other options as well. Travelers often opt for a one- or two-day train trip, or a combination trip often described as the “backdoor route” to Machu Picchu.

Taking the Train to Aguas Calientes

The main choices you need to make are theTrain from Cusco to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo) schedule, departure station, and the train service. First, you need to decide between an overnight trip or a one-day trip. By departing for Aguas Calientes in the afternoon or evening and spending the night there before visiting Machu Picchu, you ensure that you have more than enough time to explore the legendary citadel. You can also arrive before the crowds if you take the first bus at 5:10am, which will allow you to beat the trains. Lastly, if you wake up very early and hike up to the ruins rather than taking the bus, you might be lucky enough to catch the sunrise over Machu Picchu.

Conversely, doing it all in one day is rushed and riskier, and the necessity of only considering the earliest departure times and the latest return times often means you will have to pay more for the train tickets (as there are fewer service levels available at these times).

The foreign-owned Peru Rail owns all of the trains (including those with different names), and the lack of competition means that the train tickets are quite expensive. You’ll need to choose between three basic levels of service:

Train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo)Backpacker- The most economical option, although in no way uncomfortable. If you want drinks or snacks, you must bring them.
Vistadome- Boasts more space and serves small snacks and drinks. Windows in the roof means better views of the surrounding countryside during the journey. Prices vary by departure time, but it costs almost 50 USD more than the Backpacker.
Hiram Bingham- The most luxurious service, costing as much as 700 USD.

Trains to Aguas Calientes leave daily from Poroy Station and the town of Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Poroy is located 20 minutes outside of Cusco, but the ticket generally includes bus transport from Cusco. Not only is this significantly more expensive, but during the rainy season it’s much less reliable, and the trip takes much longer. If possible, opt for transport to Ollantaytambo 90 minutes outside of Cusco (there are taxi and bus options), followed by the train. Trains depart from Ollantaytambo station more frequently, meaning there are more departure time options as well as lower prices.

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Getting to Aguas Calientes By Car

You cannot reach Aguas Calientes by car Walking along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes, Perualone, but you can cover a large part of the trip this way. It’s more time-consuming, but it’s the cheapest method. Basically, it involves traveling by minibus from Cusco, through the towns of Santa Maria and Santa Teresa. You can go as far as the Hydroelectric Station, a trip that takes 6-7 hours and costs around 15 USD. From there, you can walk for 2 ½ to 3 hours to arrive at Aguas Calientes. Or, you can take the train for around 15-18 USD.

You might actually get a cheaper price with a local travel agency, who can bundle the minibus, train, and bus tickets with accommodation in Aguas Calientes and the Machu Picchu entrance at the preferential rates they receive.

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Of the different ways to reach Machu Picchu, this one is most vulnerable to delays during the rainy season, due to road conditions and landslides (although these can train travel as well).

From Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu Citadel

Machu Picchu CitadelFrom Aguas Calientes, there are two ways to reach the ruins: a 20 minute bus trip (9.50 USD) or a hike. Buses leave from 5:30am on, departing as soon as they fill up and continuing for as long as the archeological complex remains open.

It takes from 1 to 2 hours to cover the 5 mile route, which is somewhat strenuous due to a multitude of stairs. Setting off at around 4:40am will allow you to reach the top before sunrise.

Learn to Make Chocolate at the ChocoMuseu in Lima or Cusco

Learn to Make Chocolate at the ChocoMuseu in Lima or Cusco

The ChocoMuseu in Plaza Regocijo, CuscoThe ChocoMuseo mission is to make chocolate in the countries where cacao grows, which is why it luckily has three different locations in Peru. In Lima, it’s located 3 blocks from Kennedy Park in Miraflores (very close to our hostels, which are located one block and four blocks from Kennedy Park). In Cusco, it’s 2 blocks from the main square, the Plaza de Armas (just a block from Pirwa Colonial Hostel, Pirwa Posada del Corregidor, and Pirwa Suecia B&B!). There’s also one located half a block from the impressive ruins of Ollantaytambo.

(You may remember reading about Ollantaytambo in an earlier blog post, “5 Best Spots to Visit in the Sacred Valley of the Incas“.)

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Visitors can take part in popular activities, especially the 2-hour “Cacao Bean to Chocolate Bar” workshop, which takes you through the whole process. Other workshops vary by location and month, but some of the standards are truffle-making and sculpting chocolate.

Each activity has a cost, although entrance to Cacao Husk Teathe small cacao and chocolate museum is free (and you are often invited to enjoy a cup of cacao husk tea for free as well….it’s different, but the taste really grows on you….you’ll probably find yourself buying a few bags to take home). There’s an artisanal chocolate kitchen open to view, as well as a store and café if you want to sample some of their products, which include natural cacao goods, crafts such as mugs and chocolate-making tools, and of course, chocolates.

Drinking Cacao Husk TeaAlthough the ChocoMuseos are actually quite small, the workshops and café make it a fun way to spend an afternoon and learn about one of the region’s most fascinating and delicious products.

As always, feel free to ask reception in any of our Pirwa hostels in Peru for tips and recommendations on fun, enlightening ways to spend your free time during your trip!

Vegetarian Cusco

Vegetarian Cusco

Plaza de Armas in Cusco

With a nod to frugality, certain traditional local meals have always been vegetarian, like Locro de Zapallo (Squash Stew) or Kapchi de Habas (Stewed Broadbeans). Still, meat and potatoes have always reigned supreme in Cusco’s dining scene. Cusco’s vegetarian options have steadily increased over the years, however, compelled in part by tourist demand and in part by growing religious populations which do not permit meat consumption.

Om (-) on Calle Saphi is Cusco’s first and only free restaurant runs on donations only (leave one!) and serves up vegetarian food with Indian and Peruvian influences. You Sign for Vegetarian Comedor in Mercado San Blascan also help them with ingredients or in the kitchen, or taking food to the city’s poorer surrounding communities. It’s a great project headed by the Indian expats who also run Maikhana.

Govinda Lila ($) is a tiny food stand (comedor) in the San Blas Market. Grab a spot on the bench and get a set lunch menu (soup, main dish with salad, and juice) for just S/3.50. The options are humble, not very varied (beans, lentils), and not as flavorful as in other places, but it’s the cheapest vegetarian lunch in town.

El Encuento ($) has been trying to make Cusco more health-conscious for more than a decade. Lunch menus are S/6, which include a well-stocked salad bar. The set Enjoying Vegetarian Food in Cuscomenu soups are just alright, but the main dishes are quite good (try the Quinoa a la Jardinera or Arroz Tapado if it’s on offer!) It’s the best vegetarian set lunch menu in town, but if you’re fine with paying more (S/10-20), try one of the a la carte options rather than the menu (the Cauliflower Stirfry is nice!).

Govinda’s (Saphi) Fixed lunch menu & A la carte Despite the name, expect veggie food with Peruvian flair

Maikhana Buffet (on the second floor of Galeria la Merced on Avenida El Sol) ($$) If you’re feeling quite hungry, and craving Indian flavors, Maikhana can take care of you for S/15. There’s a range of vegetarian and meat curries (unfortunately the better ones are the ones with meat), although you’ll probably find that it’s a more limited selection than you would expect a buffet to offer (maybe 4 meat options, 4 vegetarian, and rice).

Greens ($$$) This restaurant isn’t wholly Cooking together at Pirwa Hostelsvegetarian, but their organic menu offers plenty of options. While it’s rather expensive to be a lunchtime standard, it’s a nice stop if you’d like to leave the set menus behind and indulge in some more upscale food.

Even though Cusco does have a variety of options available for different budgets, there still might be days when nothing tickles your fancy. In that case, why not stop by the market and pick up your own ingredients? Most of Pirwa’s hostels include guest kitchens where you can fix your own meals.

Peru Travel Pt 2: How to Buy Machu Picchu Entrance Tickets

Peru Travel Pt 2: How to Buy Machu Picchu Entrance Tickets

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Almost all visitors to Peru plan on visiting Machu Picchu Archeological Complex, the famous Lost City of the Incas, yet it’s important to keep in mind that tickets are not available at the actual site, so travelers need to make their arrangements beforehand.

Waiting for the train in Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo)There is an official government website, for tickets to Machu Picchu (http://www.machupicchu.gob.pe/), but you will find that it is almost exclusively used by travel agencies or by travelers already in Cusco, because the site does not currently accept credit card payments from other countries. After making an online reservation, one must take the printout to the Banco de la Nación (on Cusco’s main street, Avenida El Sol) or to MultiRed Agentes banks. Depending on the time you go (lunch hours are the worst) the wait could range from 30 to 60 minutes. Then, you can pay for the reservation with cash or credit card and a valid form of identification. Then you return to the website, click the Check-In section, and enter your reservation number to generate your tickets. You have a limited amount of time to confirm your pre-reservation with payment before it is lost.

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Pirwa Hostels’ guests often contact our travel department to ask for assistance obtaining Machu Picchu entrance tickets. Even if you’re not interested in contracting a full 2 day, 1 night trip to Machu Picchu with a guide, you can still ask for this service. With only a valid passport copy and payment through our secure online system, Pirwa Travel Service can purchase Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu tickets on your behalf. Or, you can pick and choose the services you require:

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  • transfers to/from the train station
  • bus tickets from Aguas Calientes to the archeological complex
  • lodging in Aguas Calientes
  • entrances
  • guided visits

If you would rather obtain your tickets independently, and don’t want to bother with the website, you can also buy Machu Picchu tickets at the DRC Offices in Cusco or in the main square of Aguas Calientes. In Cusco, the office is located a 15 minute walk from the Plaza de Armas, on Av La Cultura. You can ask for assistance in reception regarding how to find the office. On Mondays through Saturdays, the office is open from 8am-4pm, and on Sundays it opens from 5am to 10pm.

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For those of you looking for affordable lodging in Aguas Calientes (formally Machu Picchu Pueblo), the base town for those visiting the famous Inca citadel, Pirwa Hostels has two locations in town. Pirwa Machu Picchu Hostel offers a variety of shared dormitories with private or shared bath, or private rooms with private bath, while Pirwa Machu Picchu B&B offers exclusively private rooms. Both offer breakfast, although it’s a simple continental breakfast in the slightly more economical Pirwa Machu Picchu Hostel and an American breakfast in the B&B. No matter which of our locales you choose, we prefer to meet all of our guests at the Aguas Calientes train station to help them with their bags and to the hostel.