Browsed by
Tag: cusco

Come Party with us in Cusco!!

Come Party with us in Cusco!!

Ready for the party tonight? The bar’s stocked, playlist packed, and facepaint readied for today’s Inka Party in honor of the Inti Raymi Sun Festival!

All of our guests (in any of our Cusco hostels) are invited to come and party with us in Pirwa Colonial Backpackers from 9pm through the morning…

…And the couple chosen as Inca emperors can expect some free drinks on our behalf!

You’ll find Pirwa Colonial Backpackers at Plaza San Francisco 360, 02 blocks from the Main Square of Cusco. If you’re facing the church, look to the side on the right. Check the map here:

View Larger Map

Inti Raymi: The Inca Sun Festival in Cusco

Inti Raymi: The Inca Sun Festival in Cusco

The Incan Sun Festival

Each June, 50,000 spectators gather in Cusco to celebrate the Winter Solstice and kick off the Andean New Year during Inti Raymi, the Sun Festival. Honoring the supreme Inca deity, the sun, this was the year’s most important celebration in the time of the Inca Empire. Tradition holds that Inti Raymi dates back to Pachacutec, the first Inca. The celebration and rituals were repressed after the Spanish Conquest and through the Colonial period, but were reborn in 1944. Now, each year hundreds upon hundreds of actors, dancers, and musicians present a theatrical reenactment based on historical chronicles.

It all begins on June 21st, which was the first day of the Incan solar calendar and marks the winter solstice, with opening ceremonies throughout the week. You’ll see the streets fill with color and activity thanks to the numerous street fairs, free concerts, and elaborately costumed dancers. The Festival´s main day, falls on the Day of the Peasant (formerly celebrated as Day of the Indian), June 24th, which is also the anniversary of Cusco.

Getting Tickets

Acts I and II at Qorikancha Sun Temple and the Plaza de Armas are open to the general public. You’ll want to go early if you want to be able to see. (One benefit of getting your Inti Raymi tickets through an agency as part of a festival package is that you will usually get a private balcony from which to watch the celebrations in the Plaza.)

Tickets are sold for Act III at Saqsaywaman, where viewing platforms are arranged in three different zones. The cost of Act III, the central ceremony, ranges from $80 to $115 depending if you are in the Green, Blue, or Orange Platform. It’s limited to 3,859 spectators. Ticket costs include the official program/script in 3 languages and a DVD about the ceremony.

If you buy your tickets for Act III directly through the government agency with handles festivals, EMUFEC, payment is required in advance, by deposit into their account or through their online purchasing system. (Unfortunately, they’re taking their time…at the moment, the account information has not yet been published, nor the purchasing system activated!)

The 6 Day Inti Raymi Tour

Pirwa Travel offers both a shorter and longer Inti Raymi tour, the shorter of which includes the festival itself, including a packed lunch and knowledgeable guide, and ensuring balcony access overlooking the Plaza de Armas and seating at Sacsaywaman.

The longer, 6-day tour includes guided tours of the Sacred Valley of the Incas and Machu Picchu in addition to Inti Raymi. Those of you interested in a tour package, or assistance with specific elements of your trip such as transport, entrances, guided visits, and more, can get in touch with our travel department, Pirwa Travel Service at pirwatravel@gmail.com.

Travelers’ Tips

  • June is wintertime in Cusco, but the afternoon sun scorches and the temperature can spike up quickly in the afternoon.  Prepare for the variability of Cusco´s climate by dressing in layers to put on for the mornings and evening, and remembering the sun screen.
  • Cusco fills up quickly for Inti Raymi, as it also coincides with the travel industry’s “high season”- whatever you can arrange in advance, do. Especially lodging, train tickets, Machu Picchu entrances, and treks go quickly. (The Inca Trail sold out already! Perhaps you can find spaces in the shortened 2-Day trek, or alternative treks such as Salkantay or Inca Jungle.)
  • Packed streets, visual spectacles, and well-laden tourists….violence is not a worry but pickpockets are guaranteed, so watch outer pockets and bags, carry backpacks along your front or not at all, and guard your small electronics with care- cells, camaras, and mp3s are popular with thieves as they are easy to resell and bring a good price.
  • Tickets can be bought by those who want prime seating for the main ceremony at Sacsayhuamán.  Many, however, choose to simply gather in the surrounding area and hope to catch a glimpse of proceedings while picnicking along the hills.
  • Prices for transport, lodging, and food can soar in July due to the increased demand, so plan some flexibility into your budget. (Don’t worry- none of our Pirwa hostels raise prices during high season or festivals.)

Official Program: Inti Raymi’s Central Day

Friday, 24th of June 2012

08:15   The flag of Tahuantinsuyo, represented the united regions of the empire, is hoisted by 5th Mountain Brigade

08:30   Mass & Te Deum at the Basilica Cathedral, headed by Cusco’s Archbishop

09:00   Sun Greeting at Qorikancha

At Cusco’s famous Temple of the Sun, characters representing noble figures, the chosen women, the Inca’s entourage, and the royals themselves gather for the gather for Salute to the Sun. They arrive as the sounds of traditional Andean Instruments and conch shells fill the air, and exit along flower-strewn streets when they exit en route to the Main Square (Auqaypata). This lasts for half an hour.

11:00   Meeting of the Times at Auqaypata

The Inka and his entourage enter along Inti K’ijllu Street. The Inka will formally address Cusco’s mayor from his ushnu, a ceremonial platform constructed in the center of Cusco’s Main Square for the occasion. This lasts for 45 minutes.

13:30   Main Ceremony Sacsaywaman Fortress

The central ceremony lasts an hour and a half. It begins with the reports from the 4 Suyos (Regions), the Chicha Rite, Rite of Sacred Fire, Llama Sacrifice (simulated) and divining, the Sankhu (Sacred Bread) rite, and Q’ochurikuy (explosion of popular exhaltation). Expect llama viscera, bonfires, dancing, and more.

It doesn’t stop at Sacsayhuamán- the fun will continue throughout the following days through concerts, dancing, and fairs along Cusco’s main streets. Don’t miss the vibrancy, excitement and historical charm of South America’s 2nd largest festival!

The Race of Kings in San Pablo: Cusco vs the Altiplano

The Race of Kings in San Pablo: Cusco vs the Altiplano

Photo by Luis Figeroa
Preparing the Whips and Conch Horns

On January 6th, in the high Andean town of San Pablo, between the departments of Cusco and Puno, a unique race will determine the following year’s luck for these two cities. Here, the three kings are not Melchor, Gaspar, and Balthazar, but rather Inkarri, Mistirri, and Negrorri (Inca King, Mestizo King, and Black King) and the three compete in a race on horseback.

 

Photo by Luis Figeroa
Herod and his Secretary directs the Kings in the Plaza

After a ceremony in the town’s Wilson Theater the whips and conch horns are arranged in preparation before the municipal authorities and the kings of the year. After a fortifying cup of hot almond ponche, the fully-costumed Kings make their way to the plaza for a comical dialogue with King Herod, who fears for his throne!

Photo by Luis Figeroa
Non-King Jockeys have their race as well

 

 

Around 2:30pm the race begins, with different stops where the communities of Langui, Layo, and Checca will compete. There’s a good deal of drunken revelry and hijinks throughout, as with all Peruvian celebrations- beer everywhere.

 

Photo by Luis Figeroa
Riders: Are you in it for the glory or are you in it for the Mayor's baby Jesus?

The race ends with the Virgen of Bethlehem and the Mayor and other authorities of San Pablo presiding. If Inkarri, who represents the valleys of Cusco, wins, it will be a good year for the harvests in the area around Cusco. If Mistirri wins, the altiplano (high Andean plains- higher than 4000 meters) benefits. That means it will be a good year for ranching and the llamas and alpacas will prosper. If Negrorri wins, it will not be a good year for either of the two regions, there will be scarcity in production, but strangely, they say that there will be money.

Photo by Luis Figeroa
Negrorri after the Race

 

This month is full of interesting Christmas and New Year’s related activities in Peru, and we’ll be hosting our own parties as well, so keep checking back as we’ll be posting that information soon!

Cusco Nightlife: Best Bars & Clubs in Cusco!

Cusco Nightlife: Best Bars & Clubs in Cusco!

Waiting for you at Pirwa's Bar
Waiting for you at Pirwa's Bar

The rowdy night scene in Cusco contrasts sharply with the stately colonial atmosphere of the daytime. In the city´s lively bars and clubs backpackers, nationals, and locals can all party together. The closeness of the bars and clubs, the biggest of which are mostly all around the Main Square, means travelers can´t resist going with the old-school pub-crawl. We know a lot about it ourselves, having started the original Cusco hostel pub crawl lo those years ago! The happy folks at left are waiting for you at Pirwa’s Bar in Pirwa Colonial Backpackers hostel in Plaza San Francisco if you’re looking for a place to start….maybe they can even tell you the backstory about some of the pub crawl photos illustrating the post…

San Blas Hotspots

Drinking with Pirwa
Drinking with Pirwa

7 Angelitos- Best Mojitos
San Blas hotspot with live music every night- ranging from local Andean fusion bands to retro funk DJs- and the best mojitos in Cusco. (Calle Siete Angelitos 638, San Blas)

KM 0- Where to Hook-up!
Live music from Jazz to Rock to Andean fusion and happy hours that are infamous for occasioning hookups. (Calle Tandapata 100, San Blas)

Wachuma- Party with the Rastafaris
Reggae-loving DJ in the early hours, live music from around midnight on, and a laid-back relaxed atmosphere with low tables and big cushions in the upstairs area which will make it hard for you to get back up! (Hatun Rumiyoc 480, San Blas)

Plaza Hotspots: Bars & Clubs

On top of the World

Ukuku’s Bar & Club- Best Live Music Okay, I lie- it’s a tiny bit out of the Plaza, you have to turn the corner of Plateros and walk half a block, but it’s worth it. If the omnipresent-electronica beats start to bore you, head to brightly-colored Ukuku’s boasts a large dance floor and variety of live music and shows every night- alternative, Afro-Peruvian, jazz, latin, reggae, Andean fusion, rock, pop, techno, soul, and more. Open ‘till five in the morning, with a pizza bar for when your energy flags. Grab a flyer from the girls in front and on the corner and get in free. (Calle Plateros 316, 2nd floor)

I...don't know what to tell you
I...don't know what to tell you

Mushrooms Lounge Bar
If you can grab one of the booths overlooking the Plaza, Mushrooms Lounge Bar, with its fungi-centric design is a good place to chill and play some pool. Excellent cocktails, and as soon as you have some drinks in you only need to stumble one floor up to find yourself in Mama Africa for some dancing! (Portal de Panes 109, Plaza de Arma)

 

Mama Africa One of the most popular clubs in Cusco. Grab a flyer from the jaladores out front and on the corner and get in free befote 11pm- after 11pm there’s a S/10 cover with drink. Groove to an international dance mix of reggae, latin, techno, and rock with travelers and locals alike. The party here tends to get started late…there’s an 8:00-9:30pm Happy Hour, but you’ll be waiting around for quite a while before people start arriving! Corner of Calle Triunfo and Santa Catalina (Portal de Harinas 191- Left of the Cathedral)

For the Rugby Fans!: The Plaza Pubs

Safety First, Sports Fans
Safety First, Sports Fans

Cross Keys
For a taste of England in Peru, stop by here for your sports, darts, or pool needs. Grab a balcony seat, some pub grub and some beers and commisserate with some of Cusco’s expat community. Happy hour is 6-7pm and 9-9:30pm- it’s only open until 1am, so you’ll need to relocate if you were planning on a late night. (Confiturias 233, Plaza de Armas, facing the cathedral)

Paddy Flaherty’s Another lively spot for watching rugby and other sports with some beer and junk food. This is another cozy pub that’s only open until 1am so switch to one of the Plaza bars or clubs if you want to hold on until the sun comes up. (Triunfo 124, Plaza de Armas, right of the Cathedral)

Out of the Plaza (But Close by…): Find the Party!

Fallen Angel

...someone prefers blue
...someone prefers blue

This campy restaurant and bar features a wild decor that includes bathtubs filled with fish and topped with glass for the tables and red and black sofas with heart pillows. Get there by climbing the narrow street from the Plaza de Armas as if you were heading to San Blas or to see the 12-angled stone- it’s the first little plaza you’ll cross. (Plaza de Nazarenas 221)

Kamikase One of the first nightclubs in Cusco with funky decor, live music ranging from Spanish rock to reggae, a 2-level bar, and nightly drink specials. A little less crowded than some of the other clubs and as many locals as gringos come here to party. Plaza a Regocijo is the little plaza right next to the Plaza de Armas, so you’re not going to far out. Happy hour 8:30 – 9:30 pm and live music begins at 11pm. (Plaza Regocijo 274, second floor)

Corpus Christi: Saints and Virgins on Parade

Corpus Christi: Saints and Virgins on Parade

Of Mummies and Saints

Saints on ParadeIn the time of the Incan Empire, festivals were carried out in the presence of the richly attired and adorned mummies of all the supreme Incas and rulers of Tawantinsuyu, as well as other venerated ancestors.  Now, when once Cusco celebrated the end of the agricultural year with feasting and the procession mummies, the city celebrates Corpus Christi with a procession of Saints and Virgins.  For Cusco, Corpus Christi is the year´s most important (and lavish) religious festival.

On the day before the main event, this Wednesday, music coming from the Cathedral will call the saints.  The patron saints from 15 parish districts arrive at the Main Square´s Cathedral dressed in this year´s best finery- new clothes, new jewelry and ornamentation- along with their own band and parishioners.  The elaborately costumed saints and virgins make their way to the Cathedral to greet “Corpus Christi”- the body of Christ.  In the early hours of the morning, with the streets already overflowing with the faithful and the curious you´ll see a strange sight- Saint Sebastian (5km from the Cathedral) and Saint Geronimo (10km from the Cathedral) racing to reach the Cathedral first.  They´ll spend the night in the Cathedral.  On Thursday the 23rd it´s time for the main event as all the saints prepare to process together.  Altars adorned with mirrors, banners, flowers, tree branches, religious images, etc, await them.

SaintCarrying the Saint

After the Archbishop´s Te-Deum on Thursday morning, the Golden Sun of Custody which holds the Host will begin its procession in a silver carriage.  (The Golden Custody is an 18th century 26.7kg/1.2m pure gold massif decorated with 331 pearls, 263 diamonds, 221 green emeralds, 89 amethysts, 62 rubies, 43 topazes, 17 diamonds, 5 sapphires and an agate.)  After the Procession of the Holy Sacrament, the Saints and Virgins process together before entering the Cathedral where they´ll stay until the Octava a week later.  Then they´ll process again while devotees dance the Mestiza Qoyacha and Capaq Qoya.  You´ll see various costumed characters frolicking about as well: chauchos, qollas, pabluchas, and ukukus among them.  Throughout the day you´ll also hear Peru´s largest church bell, the 16th century María Angola.  Finally, it´ll be time for the Saints and Virgins to return to their home parishes.  Dancers and musicians will accompany the saints as they´ll process along the same streets where Incan mummies paraded in the time of the Inca Empire.

A Room With a View…

View of the Plaza from CorregidorAs luck would have it, Corpus Christi this year falls on the same day as the Serenade to Cusco and a day before the Incan Festival of the Sun, Inti Raymi.  Between these and the city´s anniversary, and the upcoming centennial of Machu Picchu, the streets of Cusco have become a lively spectacle of costumes and dancers.  It´s definitely the best time to visit Cusco.  The downside, however, is that navigating through the city has become difficult due to the revelers.  With thousands of people crowding the Main Square in the next several days, it´s a good idea to find a way to view the festivities without fighting for a spot.  At Pirwa´s Posada del Corregidor B&B, you can sit in the restaurant´s balcony facing the Main Square and relax without missing the fun.  You´ll also avoid the other main problem associated with the festivities: price hikes- as our policy is to keep prices the same all throughout the year, regardless of the season.

You have to try…

ChiriuchuWednesday night families serve 12 traditional dishes, but on the main event Thursday one dish is the star: Chiriuchu (Cold Chili Pepper).  This traditional Corpus Christi meal is a cold dish of guinea pig, chicken, ch´arki, sausages, cheese, toasted corn kernels, tortillas, bread, etc.  Merchants set up stands around the Main Square, knowing that as soon as the saints are safely tucked away it´s time for food and chicha (fermented corn drink) or beer.