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Peru Travel, Pt 1: What to Eat in Peru

Peru Travel, Pt 1: What to Eat in Peru

Cuy ChactadoFood is our common ground, a universal experience. – James Beard

One of the best ways to get to know the country you are visiting in is to indulge in the food- in the restaurants, in the streets, in family homes. In Peru, there’s no scarcity of food to explore. It’s diverse landscape and rich cultural history has given it a broad cuisine boasting Andean, Amazonian, Asian, and European influences.

Ceviche: Considered the nation’s banner dish,  it is a preparation of raw fish tossed in a spicy citrus marinade. (The acid in the fruit softens and slightly ‘cooks’ it.) It’s generally served with a soup (chilcano) and a drink (leche de tigre) made of the leftover marinade, and sweet potato or choclo, large Andean corn. A tasty Nikkei (Japanese Peruvian) variation is tiradito, which is like sashimi but served with a spicy sauce.

Where to Try It: Lima, Trujillo, and the other coastal cities. (Ceviche in the Andes is made of river fish, and the longer marinating time makes it a different dish altogether.)

Cuy: The large guinea pigs of the Andes are bred purely for food, and are in fact Peru’s most infamous traditional fare. Although it’s considered a delicacy worthy of holidays and other important celebrations, it is the most acquired taste of any of the dishes on our list. Most travelers who say it are surprised by the lack of meat, but locals enjoy this dish by eating all of its components and sucking the bones. It’s a gamey meat not unlike rabbit, but much depends on the preparation.

Where to Try It: In Cusco, cuy is eaten roasted whole, its intestines mixed with minty green huacatay. Though it boasts the most visually impressive preparation, and is the choice of hardcore travelers, it isn’t the tastiest…go easy on yourself by waiting until Arequipa and trying cuy chactado, which is flattened and fried. Or, the most squeamish might consider indulging in Lima’s high fusion cuisine, with cuy ravioli and other delicate presentations that anybody would love.

Causa: A layered casserole of mashed potatoes, avocado, tuna or meat, and hard-boiled egg. It can be slightly spicy depending on the preparation, but as it’s served cold it’s still refreshing.

Where to Try It: This dish is most associated with Lima.

Lomo Saltado: This stir-fried beef dish is a Chinese-Peruvian creation often mixed with fries and served with rice.

Where to Try It: The capital of Peru’s fusion cuisine is Lima.

Ají de Gallina: Shredded chicken or hen is bathed in a creamy yellow sauce of hot pepper, milk, cheese, and bread. The first meal I ate upon arriving in Cusco, and still a favorite. Don’t miss it.

Where to Try It: Ají de Gallina varies very little by city, and you’ll find it in all of Peru’s cities.

Anticuchos: Peruvian shish kebabs are prepared with a variety of meats, although beef heart is considered the most traditional and delectable. Beef, chicken, and sausage are often available, so it sometimes takes time to work up the courage to go for the heart, but the velvety texture of freshly prepared beef heart makes it worth it when you do.

Where to Try It: If you’re interested in sampling the street food, this is one of the safest options (as compared to fried foods, which can attract a lot of bacteria if they’re left to cool before consumption). You can find tasty anticuchos anywhere in Peru, although if you’re in the Ica region, the cradle of Afro-Peruvian culture that would be the most traditional choice.

Rocoto Relleno: Although it resembles a red bell pepper, the pepper used in rocoto relleno is spicy. After being boiled to tame its heat, it’s stuffed with ground beef and egg, then topped with cheese and backed.

Where to Try It: The best place to try it is Arequipa

Alpaca: The meat of this South American camelid is leaner and gamier than beef, somewhat like buffalo.

Where to Try It: Although Lima and Cusco have delectable options as well, Arequipa has some of the country’s most renowned alpaca restaurants.

Pollo a la Brasa: Roast chicken may not seem foreign enough to make it onto your travel food wishlist, but the marinade used before the meat is put on the spit gives Peruvian Pollo a la Brasa a distinct smoky flavor.

Where to Try It: Alongside Peruvian Chinese joints (Chifas), pollerías are among the most ubiquitous restaurants. Try it anywhere (although Cusco’s is quite nice).

Juanes: This spiced rice and chicken package is steamed in a bijao leaf. Although chicken is the most common, you can also find fish or yuca versions. The name is derived from John the Baptist (patron saint of the Peruvian Amazon), and the round bundle on a plate supposedly refers to the saint’s untimely end.

Where to Try It: Make sure to try this emblematic dish if you’re passing through the cities of the Peruvian Amazon: Iquitos, Tarapoto, or Puerto Maldonado.

Best Time to Travel- When to Visit Peru

Best Time to Travel- When to Visit Peru

Best Time to See: The Andes

 Flying into Cusco peru Heading towards Mt Salkantay

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The vast Andean mountain range includes fertile valleys marked by patchwork subsistence farming, traditional adobe cities with cobblestone streets and colorfully dressed locals, and the Incan ruins of fortresses, temples, and terracing. The glacial peaks provide a scenic challenge to the most intrepid travelers, and the jungle brow (high-altitude jungle) and cloud forests help make the Andes the region housing the most microclimates in Peru. Travelers visit to explore the former imperial capital of the Inca Empire, Cusco, discover for themselves the iconic Machu Picchu Archeological Complex, and practice extreme sports along the mountainsides and river rapids.

The weather is extraordinarly varied, meaning that cold mornings and frigid nights can combine with sunny, very hot afternoons. During the rainy season, it can rain everyday of your stay, but generally in short bursts. Bring layers that will allow you to adjust to the temperature shifts, and don’t forget the sunblock even during the rainy season- the sun scorches at higher altitudes.

Dry Season: May to October 

thumbs up Inti Raymi Festival & Cusco’s Anniversary (June)
thumbs up Clearer TrailsThe Plaza de Armas of Cusco
thumbs up Better Views- especially Machu Picchu
thumbs up Hillsides Bloom (September)
thumbs down Higher demand & more crowding
thumbs down Higher prices

Wet Season: November to April

thumbs down Uncomfortable for hiking (muddy paths, potential Machu Picchu through the Vineslandslides)
thumbs down Clouded views
thumbs down Unexpected dangers & delays (flooded roads, derailed train tracks)
thumbs up Fewer people
thumbs up Great bargains
thumbs up New Years in Cusco
thumbs up Fiestas Patrias Independence Days throughout Peru Llama at Awanacancha near Cusco(April)

What to do: explore the Sacred Valley of the Incas, raft the Apurimac River rapids, hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, watch a traditional weaving demonstration, visit Sacsayhuaman Fortress, tour the former imperial capital of the Incas

Best Time to See: Desert Coast

Penguins of the Ballestas Islands misti  Boarding light aircraft in Nazca

 

 

 

Peru’s arid Pacific coast is home to the ancient cities of Chan Chan and Sipán, the Paracas   Reserve, and the Nazca Lines. While Nazca, Ica, and Paracas are hot and sunny throughout the year, epitomizing general conceptions of desert climes, you’ll notice some anomalies: Lima is very humid due to coastal fog and breezes from the Pacific, which regulate the city’s temperature so that it’s never too hot or too cold. Meanwhile, the cooling effects of the Humboldt current means you can see penguins off of the coast of Paracas, in the Ballestas Islands.

At least in Lima, one can categorize two seasons, summer and winter, with May and November acting as transitional months with dramatic temperature fluctuations:

Summer: December to April

thumbs up Temperatures average 78.8 F in Lima
thumbs up Clear skies most dayslima catheddral
thumbs up “Cielo de Brujas” famously colorful sunsets
thumbs down Crowded beaches
thumbs up Ica & Nazca dry and sunny throughout year

Winter: June to October

thumbs down Averaging 59°C in Lima
thumbs down Mainly gray skies in Lima
thumbs down Omnipresent coastal fog known as Garúain LimaCotahuasi Canyon
thumbs down Sandstorms in Paracas
thumbs up Ica & Nazca dry and sunny throughout year
thumbs up Beaches along the north still sunny
thumbs up Low Tourist Season- Less Crowding
thumbs up Low Tourist Season- More Bargains
thumbs up Better waves for surfing
thumbs up Bullfighting season in Lima
thumbs up Lord of Miracles Festival in Lima (Oct/Nov)
thumbs up St Rose of Lima Festival in LimaThe Oasis town of Huacachina

What to do: Hike one of the world’s deepest canyons, fly over the Nazca Lines, Sandboard giant sand dunes near Huacachina Oasis, surf in Mancora, watch the penguins and sea lions of the Ballestas Islands, tackle the glacial peaks of Chachani, bike down Misti Volcano

Best Time to See: The Amazon

Amazon river boat Brightly colored Amazon parrot Exploring Iquitos

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Amazon Rainforest houses an astounding diversity of exotic plants and animals, as well as tribes indigenous to the area, who still uphold their timeless traditions in the face of an ever-encroaching modernity. Although much of this treasure is forbidden to access in order to protect its pristine nature and delicate ecosystems, there is a border area where tourism and scientific study are permitted. (Between the two zones, there’s a buffer zone to protect the refuge area.) Along the rivers and the jungle paths of the outer zone, one can find commune with capybara, sloths, monkeys, and more.

In the rainforest, high heat, frequent rains and 85% humidity come with the terrain. Although a wet season and dry season is frequently referenced, there isn’t much actual variation in rainfall throughout the year. The river water levels, however, can vary up to 40 feet throughout the year, mainly due to runoff from snow melting along the eastern slopes of the Andes.

December Thru May: High Water SeasonFishing for Paiche in Iquitos  

thumbs up Cooler temperatures (averaging 86 F)
thumbs down Trails & paths flooded
thumbs down More mosquitoes
thumbs up More exuberant, blooming vegetation
thumbs up Carnaval (Feb/May)

Giant Ceiba Tree in IquitosJune Thru November: Low Water Season

thumbs down Higher temperatures (averaging 98 F)
thumbs up More trails & paths accessible
thumbs up Fewer mosquitos
thumbs up Better fishing
thumbs up Migratory birds in flight
thumbs down Less exubuerant vegetation
thumbs down Riverways not navigable
thumbs up More animals gather riverside (less dispersal due to loss of terrestrial water pools)
thumbs down San Juan Festival (end of June)

What to do: visit an indigenous tribal community to learn Giant Lily Pads in Iquitosabout their way of life, swim with pink dolphins, visit a macaw clay lick, fish for piranha, visit monkey island, go on night canoe trip to see glowing cayman eyes, watch the sun set over the Amazon River, visit traditional river house

Corpus Christi in Cusco

Corpus Christi in Cusco

During the time of the Incan empire, holy days were celebrated with feasting and the procession of richly adorned mummies of venerated leaders and ancestors. These traditions continue today in the uniquely Andean Corpus Christi festivities, where Catholic virgins and saints raised upon heavy litters take over the storied streets in the city’s most important annual religious festival.

On Wednesday morning, May 29th, music will emanate from the Cathedral, calling the patron saints from Cusco’s parish districts. All 15 will answer the call to spend the night in the Cathedral with Corpus Christi, the Body of Christ. Those who find themselves among the faithful in the streets might be surprised to see the statues of St Sebastian (5km away) and St Geronimo (10km away) borne upon litters by two groups who traditionally race to reach the Cathedral first.

On the main day, Thursday, May 30th, around noon (after the Archbishop´s Te-Deum) all of the saints will process together, led by the 18th century Golden Sun of Custody, a pure gold massif embedded with hundreds of pearls, diamonds, and other precious stones which holds the host and is carried in a silver carriage. Each statue’s litter is borne by brotherhood guild members who can prepare for up to a year for the event, fundraising to lavishly attire and adorn their saint. Each is also accompanied its own band and folkloric dancers performing the Mestiza Qoyacha and Capaq Qoya, among others.

Alongside the colorful processions, you’ll also see various costumed characters dancing and interacting: qollas, pabluchas, and ukukus among them. Guests at Pirwa Posada del Corregidor can watch the festivities from the window of our restaurant, Plus Café,where breakfast is served every morning and meals and drinks are on sale all day. Its balcony overlooking the Plaza de Armas is prime real estate during festival days, when the crowding on the ground can get a little intense.

While guests at Pirwa Posada del Corregidor can watch the festivities, guests at Pirwa Colonial Backpackers in Plaza San Francisco (2 blocks from the Main Square) will find the Chiriuchu Food Fair popping up at the hostel’s doorstep.Chiriuchu is Cusco’s traditional Corpus Christi meal, a cold dish of guinea pig, chicken, ch´arki, sausage, cheese, toasted corn kernels, tortillas, bread, etc.  Give it a try, and don’t forget to wash it down with some beer or chicha.

10 Years of Pirwa

10 Years of Pirwa

A decade ago, Pirwa Hostels was founded with the dream of creating a welcoming haven where travelers could relax and interact, one providing an experience rather than merely a bed and shower. It all began with only Pirwa Colonial Backpackers hostel in Cusco, but despite these modest beginnings, the Pirwa Family has grown incredibly. As we approach our 10 year anniversary this June, we wanted to look back at some of the milestones along the way.

We’ve grown a lot in the last ten years, improving facilities and services based on your feedback along the way. Today, Pirwa Hostels boasts backpackers’ hostels or Bed & Breakfasts throughout Peru and Bolivia: two in Lima, four in Cusco, two in Machu Picchu, and one each in Nazca, Puno, Arequipa, and La Paz. The Pirwa family has also grown into a one-stop shop offering transport and excursions through our own travel agency, Pirwa Travel Service, whose friendly s staff helps travelers with all aspects of their trip.

There’s also been quite a bit of formal recognition over the years, none prouder than when the agency became an officially recognized Inca Trail operator. Other notable events were Pirwa Colonial winning Hostelworld’s #1 Hostel in Peru award in 2009, and Pirwa Machu Picchu B&B winning Hostelbooker’s Cleanest Hostel award in 2011.

It hasn’t been all work, however. Last year was a blast: We added new activities we hadn’t done before, such as free weekly walking tours of Cusco that always ended with free drinks, and the New Years Party at Pirwa Colonial was the biggest we ever had! Currently, we’re happily planning all of the events for our anniversary week this June- details will be forthcoming soon!


So far this year, we renovated several hostels, so that even after all these years and the memories they hold, they feel new again, and more adapted to the needs of our friends and guests from around the world.

Through hard work, trial and error, and lots of listening, Pirwa Hostels’ founders created something different, and you’ll see them at various events still putting their all into making sure that guests enjoy their stay and have an unforgettable. Were it not for the support of our backpacking and traveling friends, we could never have experienced all of these things. So from all of us to all of you, thank you for the memories. The next decade will be even better- we hope that you’ll experience it with us as part of the Pirwa Family!

You’re Invited to Pirwa’s Christmas Eve Dinner in Cusco!

You’re Invited to Pirwa’s Christmas Eve Dinner in Cusco!

You’re Invited to Pirwa’s Christmas Eve Dinner in Cusco!

Cusco is one of Peru’s most popular cities to visit during the holidays, and on midnight on Christmas Eve the city explodes with fireworks and firecrackers. If you’re celebrating on the road and wondering where to lay your backpack, this December 24th at 9pm, Pirwa Colonial will celebrate its traditional Christmas Eve Dinner.

The menu’s been set and sounds delectable- a salad of vegetables and fruits in a Thai sauce, mustard turkey roulades with aguaymanto sauce, dessert tbd, and champagne for toasting. We offer the dinner at cost, a third of the price that the same dinner will be selling elsewhere, so it’s a great alternative to overpriced Christmas menus that the restaurants offer on this day.

No matter which of Pirwa’s Cusco locations you’re staying at, you’re invited to celebrate with us. We’ll be giving out invitations to all of our guests on Dec 23rd and 24th, and we hope to see you there!