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Visiting Santa Catalina Monastery in Arequipa

Visiting Santa Catalina Monastery in Arequipa

Santa Catalina monastery 4936069818_52fc9ca4fd_o6033121285_ee3c9b1983_b

The 16th century Santa Catalina Monastery in Arequipa once housed nuns from the high class Spanish families- at its peak, the huge complex housed up to 150 nuns and 300 servants.  At the time, families were expected to send their second child into the service of the church, and paid very high dowries to send their daughters to Santa Catalina. Many lived lives of luxury within the cloistered walls of Santa Catalina, with slaves and servants to attend to them and tales of pregnant nuns floating around. This ended in 1871 when Pope Pius IX requested the monastery’s reform, sending in an overseer to teach the nuns humility.

Colca Canyon to Lake Titicaca

Colca Canyon to Lake Titicaca

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The route from Arequipa to Colca Canyon is marked by open plains surrounded by snow-capped volcanoes. Along the way, we make several stops: at the Pampas Cañahuas Reserve to watch the grazing herds of alpacas and vicuña, at the town of Viscachani to stretch our legs and enjoy a coca tea or coffee, at the Mirador of the Andes Lookout (4850masl) to take in some dazzling expansive views of the surrounding landscape. The lookout is located at the highest point of the crossing, meaning that you will probably be feeling a little fatigued from the altitude! (Check out an earlier post if you’re looking for tips to prevent and deal with altitude sickness….you’ll probably be glad you did.)

Llama and alpacas in Reserva Nacional de Salina y Aguada Blanca. Arequipa, Andes, Perú2120876033_490a9b995a_ollamas-chivay

At Chivay, we’ll enjoy a buffet lunch where you can sample alpaca and other local dishes. Chivay is considered the canyon’s principal town and entry point, so this is where visitors must purchase their entry, which is presently S/35 Peruvian nuevos soles.

Continuing on to the town 2980577117_f0458c70f1_bof Coporaque, you can get settled in our inn for the night before exploring the town with our local guide. Evenings can be quite cold in the canyon, but you can warm up in the La Calera Hot Springs if you desire. The entry cost is S/10 Peruvian nuevos soles. (The inn can provide towels, so you just need to bring sandals and your swimsuit.) The pools are surrounded by beautiful mountains. Dinner will be accompanied by a folkloric show highlighting the canyon’s two pre-Columbian cultures, the Collagua and the Cabana.

After an early breakfast on the second day, we head to the viewing platform of Condor’s Cross, the most famous site in the canyon, stopping along the way to enjoy views of the canyon and its river as well as thousand year old cliff-side agricultural terraces and pre-Columbian hanging tombs. As the sun’s rays begin to warm the canyon, the endangered Andean condors rise from their nesting colony deep below Condor’s Cross, circling ever higher in search of food. The sheer size of the world’s largest birds of flight is stunning to see at close range, especially in the setting of the canyon’s natural beauty. There are some small trails in the area that we can walk as well. During the return to Chivay for lunch, we’ll visit some of the tiny towns of the canyon.

DSC_0318vuelo-condorpanorama-colca

Then, it will be time to depart from the canyon and begin our journey over the altiplano, the high Andean plains. Depending on the time of year, we may see Andean flamingos feeding on the shores of Lagunillas Lake. At the end of the journey, you will be dropped off at your hotel or hostel in Puno.

Boy from Yanque

Although Puno itself is not a large city, the islands of Lake Titicaca will surely be calling to you. Most visitors choose to see at least the Floating Islands of Uros, and if time allows the islands of Amantani and Taquile. For more detailed information on things to do in Puno, here’s a selection of earlier posts on the topic:

TOMTOM sur l'Isla Los UROS - LAC TITICACA - PEROU

 

Peru Travel: Into the Depths of Colca Canyon

Peru Travel: Into the Depths of Colca Canyon

On the San Juan de Chuccho Trail in Colca Canyon, Arequipa

Arequipa boasts many attractions, from the intricate mestizo-baroque colonial buildings of volcanic sillar in the historic center to the volcanoes and fertile valleys of its countryside. Nearby, one finds the two deepest canyons in the world, Cotahuasi Canyon and Colca Canyon. Although the former is actually deeper, Colca Canyon is most popular, mainly due to its impressive condor colonies.

8732773729_e0c69cecdc_bIf you are considering trekking Colca Canyon, consider the San Juan de Chuccha Route, which can be done in 2 or 3 days. Whether you choose a 2-day or a 3-day trek along this route, you will need to depart Arequipa quite early, at around 3:30am, to depart for Colca Canyon. There is always a stop in the canyon town of Chivay for breakfast before continuing on to Condor’s Cross lookout, the most famous spot in the canyon. There, you can watch as the world’s largest birds of flight, the endangered Andean Condor, ascend from their colony deep below the lookout in search for food. Riding the rising thermals as the sun heats the canyon, they can appear sometimes to be suspended in the air, casting huge shadows on the canyon walls. It’s also a good spot from which to admire the profundity of the world’s second largest canyon.6934264744_41c4f7a882_o

The trek begins from San Miguel Pampas in the town of Cabanaconde. Over the initial 3½ hour descent, you’ll learn about the canyon’s indigenous plants upon which locals rely for medicinal and other uses. These include muña, cactus fruit, Andean corn, squashes, and jatupa. The canyon also boasts fruits like lúcuma,  peaches, apples, papaya, squash, lúcuma, mango, and figs.

After a rest at the Colca River, the force which formed the canyon, one crosses the first hanging bridge to arrive at the tiny and enchanting canyon town of San Juan de Chuccho, located on the north side of the river and marked by trees with fruit, flowers, and lichen. After lunch and a rest, those on 2-day treks continue on, visiting the towns of Malata and Cosñirhua en route to  Sangalle Oasis. (Those on 3-day treks spend the night in San Juan de Chuccho.

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Although the canyon’s crops flourish during the December to March wet season, during much of the year parts of the canyon become quite barren- except for the Oasis, where hot temperatures and water from a geothermal spring keep the area lush year-round. There, you can enjoy the palm-lined pools of the Oasis and spend the night in adobe bungalows representative of the zone.

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It’s best to begin the following day’s ascent very early- not because it takes much time, but because it is more comfortable to do the climb before the sun becomes strong. It may take as much as 3½ hours to reach the top. After breakfast in Cabanaconde, you can give your legs a break and catch the private bus to Chivay, stopping along the way at the town of Maca and at various natural lookouts boasting privileged views of the canyon’s depth and the pre-Incan terraces of the valley.

At Chivay, one can visit the nearby Las Llamas in ChivayCaleras hotsprings and have lunch before beginning the return trip to Arequipa. Along the way, you can stop at the Lookout of the Andes, which offers panoramic views of the Chila range and Ampato, Sabancaya, and Hualca Hualca Volcanoes. We’ll also stop at Aguada Blanca National Reserve, which is most known for its grazing herds of vicuña, the rarer and more elegant cousin of the alpaca and the llama. Then, it’s back to the White City of Arequipa to explore all that it has to offer.

Peru Travel, Pt 1: What to Eat in Peru

Peru Travel, Pt 1: What to Eat in Peru

Cuy ChactadoFood is our common ground, a universal experience. – James Beard

One of the best ways to get to know the country you are visiting in is to indulge in the food- in the restaurants, in the streets, in family homes. In Peru, there’s no scarcity of food to explore. It’s diverse landscape and rich cultural history has given it a broad cuisine boasting Andean, Amazonian, Asian, and European influences.

Ceviche: Considered the nation’s banner dish,  it is a preparation of raw fish tossed in a spicy citrus marinade. (The acid in the fruit softens and slightly ‘cooks’ it.) It’s generally served with a soup (chilcano) and a drink (leche de tigre) made of the leftover marinade, and sweet potato or choclo, large Andean corn. A tasty Nikkei (Japanese Peruvian) variation is tiradito, which is like sashimi but served with a spicy sauce.

Where to Try It: Lima, Trujillo, and the other coastal cities. (Ceviche in the Andes is made of river fish, and the longer marinating time makes it a different dish altogether.)

Cuy: The large guinea pigs of the Andes are bred purely for food, and are in fact Peru’s most infamous traditional fare. Although it’s considered a delicacy worthy of holidays and other important celebrations, it is the most acquired taste of any of the dishes on our list. Most travelers who say it are surprised by the lack of meat, but locals enjoy this dish by eating all of its components and sucking the bones. It’s a gamey meat not unlike rabbit, but much depends on the preparation.

Where to Try It: In Cusco, cuy is eaten roasted whole, its intestines mixed with minty green huacatay. Though it boasts the most visually impressive preparation, and is the choice of hardcore travelers, it isn’t the tastiest…go easy on yourself by waiting until Arequipa and trying cuy chactado, which is flattened and fried. Or, the most squeamish might consider indulging in Lima’s high fusion cuisine, with cuy ravioli and other delicate presentations that anybody would love.

Causa: A layered casserole of mashed potatoes, avocado, tuna or meat, and hard-boiled egg. It can be slightly spicy depending on the preparation, but as it’s served cold it’s still refreshing.

Where to Try It: This dish is most associated with Lima.

Lomo Saltado: This stir-fried beef dish is a Chinese-Peruvian creation often mixed with fries and served with rice.

Where to Try It: The capital of Peru’s fusion cuisine is Lima.

Ají de Gallina: Shredded chicken or hen is bathed in a creamy yellow sauce of hot pepper, milk, cheese, and bread. The first meal I ate upon arriving in Cusco, and still a favorite. Don’t miss it.

Where to Try It: Ají de Gallina varies very little by city, and you’ll find it in all of Peru’s cities.

Anticuchos: Peruvian shish kebabs are prepared with a variety of meats, although beef heart is considered the most traditional and delectable. Beef, chicken, and sausage are often available, so it sometimes takes time to work up the courage to go for the heart, but the velvety texture of freshly prepared beef heart makes it worth it when you do.

Where to Try It: If you’re interested in sampling the street food, this is one of the safest options (as compared to fried foods, which can attract a lot of bacteria if they’re left to cool before consumption). You can find tasty anticuchos anywhere in Peru, although if you’re in the Ica region, the cradle of Afro-Peruvian culture that would be the most traditional choice.

Rocoto Relleno: Although it resembles a red bell pepper, the pepper used in rocoto relleno is spicy. After being boiled to tame its heat, it’s stuffed with ground beef and egg, then topped with cheese and backed.

Where to Try It: The best place to try it is Arequipa

Alpaca: The meat of this South American camelid is leaner and gamier than beef, somewhat like buffalo.

Where to Try It: Although Lima and Cusco have delectable options as well, Arequipa has some of the country’s most renowned alpaca restaurants.

Pollo a la Brasa: Roast chicken may not seem foreign enough to make it onto your travel food wishlist, but the marinade used before the meat is put on the spit gives Peruvian Pollo a la Brasa a distinct smoky flavor.

Where to Try It: Alongside Peruvian Chinese joints (Chifas), pollerías are among the most ubiquitous restaurants. Try it anywhere (although Cusco’s is quite nice).

Juanes: This spiced rice and chicken package is steamed in a bijao leaf. Although chicken is the most common, you can also find fish or yuca versions. The name is derived from John the Baptist (patron saint of the Peruvian Amazon), and the round bundle on a plate supposedly refers to the saint’s untimely end.

Where to Try It: Make sure to try this emblematic dish if you’re passing through the cities of the Peruvian Amazon: Iquitos, Tarapoto, or Puerto Maldonado.

Best Time to Travel- When to Visit Peru

Best Time to Travel- When to Visit Peru

Best Time to See: The Andes

 Flying into Cusco peru Heading towards Mt Salkantay

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The vast Andean mountain range includes fertile valleys marked by patchwork subsistence farming, traditional adobe cities with cobblestone streets and colorfully dressed locals, and the Incan ruins of fortresses, temples, and terracing. The glacial peaks provide a scenic challenge to the most intrepid travelers, and the jungle brow (high-altitude jungle) and cloud forests help make the Andes the region housing the most microclimates in Peru. Travelers visit to explore the former imperial capital of the Inca Empire, Cusco, discover for themselves the iconic Machu Picchu Archeological Complex, and practice extreme sports along the mountainsides and river rapids.

The weather is extraordinarly varied, meaning that cold mornings and frigid nights can combine with sunny, very hot afternoons. During the rainy season, it can rain everyday of your stay, but generally in short bursts. Bring layers that will allow you to adjust to the temperature shifts, and don’t forget the sunblock even during the rainy season- the sun scorches at higher altitudes.

Dry Season: May to October 

thumbs up Inti Raymi Festival & Cusco’s Anniversary (June)
thumbs up Clearer TrailsThe Plaza de Armas of Cusco
thumbs up Better Views- especially Machu Picchu
thumbs up Hillsides Bloom (September)
thumbs down Higher demand & more crowding
thumbs down Higher prices

Wet Season: November to April

thumbs down Uncomfortable for hiking (muddy paths, potential Machu Picchu through the Vineslandslides)
thumbs down Clouded views
thumbs down Unexpected dangers & delays (flooded roads, derailed train tracks)
thumbs up Fewer people
thumbs up Great bargains
thumbs up New Years in Cusco
thumbs up Fiestas Patrias Independence Days throughout Peru Llama at Awanacancha near Cusco(April)

What to do: explore the Sacred Valley of the Incas, raft the Apurimac River rapids, hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, watch a traditional weaving demonstration, visit Sacsayhuaman Fortress, tour the former imperial capital of the Incas

Best Time to See: Desert Coast

Penguins of the Ballestas Islands misti  Boarding light aircraft in Nazca

 

 

 

Peru’s arid Pacific coast is home to the ancient cities of Chan Chan and Sipán, the Paracas   Reserve, and the Nazca Lines. While Nazca, Ica, and Paracas are hot and sunny throughout the year, epitomizing general conceptions of desert climes, you’ll notice some anomalies: Lima is very humid due to coastal fog and breezes from the Pacific, which regulate the city’s temperature so that it’s never too hot or too cold. Meanwhile, the cooling effects of the Humboldt current means you can see penguins off of the coast of Paracas, in the Ballestas Islands.

At least in Lima, one can categorize two seasons, summer and winter, with May and November acting as transitional months with dramatic temperature fluctuations:

Summer: December to April

thumbs up Temperatures average 78.8 F in Lima
thumbs up Clear skies most dayslima catheddral
thumbs up “Cielo de Brujas” famously colorful sunsets
thumbs down Crowded beaches
thumbs up Ica & Nazca dry and sunny throughout year

Winter: June to October

thumbs down Averaging 59°C in Lima
thumbs down Mainly gray skies in Lima
thumbs down Omnipresent coastal fog known as Garúain LimaCotahuasi Canyon
thumbs down Sandstorms in Paracas
thumbs up Ica & Nazca dry and sunny throughout year
thumbs up Beaches along the north still sunny
thumbs up Low Tourist Season- Less Crowding
thumbs up Low Tourist Season- More Bargains
thumbs up Better waves for surfing
thumbs up Bullfighting season in Lima
thumbs up Lord of Miracles Festival in Lima (Oct/Nov)
thumbs up St Rose of Lima Festival in LimaThe Oasis town of Huacachina

What to do: Hike one of the world’s deepest canyons, fly over the Nazca Lines, Sandboard giant sand dunes near Huacachina Oasis, surf in Mancora, watch the penguins and sea lions of the Ballestas Islands, tackle the glacial peaks of Chachani, bike down Misti Volcano

Best Time to See: The Amazon

Amazon river boat Brightly colored Amazon parrot Exploring Iquitos

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Amazon Rainforest houses an astounding diversity of exotic plants and animals, as well as tribes indigenous to the area, who still uphold their timeless traditions in the face of an ever-encroaching modernity. Although much of this treasure is forbidden to access in order to protect its pristine nature and delicate ecosystems, there is a border area where tourism and scientific study are permitted. (Between the two zones, there’s a buffer zone to protect the refuge area.) Along the rivers and the jungle paths of the outer zone, one can find commune with capybara, sloths, monkeys, and more.

In the rainforest, high heat, frequent rains and 85% humidity come with the terrain. Although a wet season and dry season is frequently referenced, there isn’t much actual variation in rainfall throughout the year. The river water levels, however, can vary up to 40 feet throughout the year, mainly due to runoff from snow melting along the eastern slopes of the Andes.

December Thru May: High Water SeasonFishing for Paiche in Iquitos  

thumbs up Cooler temperatures (averaging 86 F)
thumbs down Trails & paths flooded
thumbs down More mosquitoes
thumbs up More exuberant, blooming vegetation
thumbs up Carnaval (Feb/May)

Giant Ceiba Tree in IquitosJune Thru November: Low Water Season

thumbs down Higher temperatures (averaging 98 F)
thumbs up More trails & paths accessible
thumbs up Fewer mosquitos
thumbs up Better fishing
thumbs up Migratory birds in flight
thumbs down Less exubuerant vegetation
thumbs down Riverways not navigable
thumbs up More animals gather riverside (less dispersal due to loss of terrestrial water pools)
thumbs down San Juan Festival (end of June)

What to do: visit an indigenous tribal community to learn Giant Lily Pads in Iquitosabout their way of life, swim with pink dolphins, visit a macaw clay lick, fish for piranha, visit monkey island, go on night canoe trip to see glowing cayman eyes, watch the sun set over the Amazon River, visit traditional river house