Browsed by
Tag: Amazon

Puerto Maldonado in the Peruvian Amazon

Puerto Maldonado in the Peruvian Amazon

4793744144_09dfdb052d_o8841576904_9a8826fab5_b 6477870799_55cb2a11c8_b

This December 26th, the department of Madre de Dios in southeastern Peru will celebrate its founding anniversary. Celebrations include singing, dancing and street parades, with the largest events taking place in the capital city, Puerto Maldonado. The area boasts lush landscapes, famous sunsets, wide rivers, and lakes and lagoons surrounded by tropical flowers and palm trees. Its most famous attractions are the virgin jungle of Manu Biosphere Reserve, Tambopata-Candamo  National Park, and scenic Lake Sandoval.

8466078367_7640726696_hWalking Through the Amazon8467135908_ca42bf119c_k

Visitors to Manu can expect to see many tropical birds, including blue and yellow parrots which congregate at the local clay licks and the national bird of Peru, the Cock of the Rock, with its showy mating dance. Native reptiles include the cayman and the emerald boa, while some notable mammals are the long-legged maned wolf, oncilla (tigrillo), and the highly elusive jaguar.

Cayman, Tambopata River6174824931_4cfd9f34df_oSONY DSC

Manu is one of the most bio-diverse areas in the world (only recently surpassed by Bolivia’s Madidi National Reserve for the most bio-diverse). You can take a tour which will allow you to explore its rivers and paths as well as visit an indigenous community. There are a variety of ethnic communities which live in the area, although the Machiguenga and Huacaria are the most well-known.

5412915793_779cc33c0b_o4793123565_e8e8510c63_o4793750550_a8d4944406_o

Peru Travel, Pt 1: What to Eat in Peru

Peru Travel, Pt 1: What to Eat in Peru

Cuy ChactadoFood is our common ground, a universal experience. – James Beard

One of the best ways to get to know the country you are visiting in is to indulge in the food- in the restaurants, in the streets, in family homes. In Peru, there’s no scarcity of food to explore. It’s diverse landscape and rich cultural history has given it a broad cuisine boasting Andean, Amazonian, Asian, and European influences.

Ceviche: Considered the nation’s banner dish,  it is a preparation of raw fish tossed in a spicy citrus marinade. (The acid in the fruit softens and slightly ‘cooks’ it.) It’s generally served with a soup (chilcano) and a drink (leche de tigre) made of the leftover marinade, and sweet potato or choclo, large Andean corn. A tasty Nikkei (Japanese Peruvian) variation is tiradito, which is like sashimi but served with a spicy sauce.

Where to Try It: Lima, Trujillo, and the other coastal cities. (Ceviche in the Andes is made of river fish, and the longer marinating time makes it a different dish altogether.)

Cuy: The large guinea pigs of the Andes are bred purely for food, and are in fact Peru’s most infamous traditional fare. Although it’s considered a delicacy worthy of holidays and other important celebrations, it is the most acquired taste of any of the dishes on our list. Most travelers who say it are surprised by the lack of meat, but locals enjoy this dish by eating all of its components and sucking the bones. It’s a gamey meat not unlike rabbit, but much depends on the preparation.

Where to Try It: In Cusco, cuy is eaten roasted whole, its intestines mixed with minty green huacatay. Though it boasts the most visually impressive preparation, and is the choice of hardcore travelers, it isn’t the tastiest…go easy on yourself by waiting until Arequipa and trying cuy chactado, which is flattened and fried. Or, the most squeamish might consider indulging in Lima’s high fusion cuisine, with cuy ravioli and other delicate presentations that anybody would love.

Causa: A layered casserole of mashed potatoes, avocado, tuna or meat, and hard-boiled egg. It can be slightly spicy depending on the preparation, but as it’s served cold it’s still refreshing.

Where to Try It: This dish is most associated with Lima.

Lomo Saltado: This stir-fried beef dish is a Chinese-Peruvian creation often mixed with fries and served with rice.

Where to Try It: The capital of Peru’s fusion cuisine is Lima.

Ají de Gallina: Shredded chicken or hen is bathed in a creamy yellow sauce of hot pepper, milk, cheese, and bread. The first meal I ate upon arriving in Cusco, and still a favorite. Don’t miss it.

Where to Try It: Ají de Gallina varies very little by city, and you’ll find it in all of Peru’s cities.

Anticuchos: Peruvian shish kebabs are prepared with a variety of meats, although beef heart is considered the most traditional and delectable. Beef, chicken, and sausage are often available, so it sometimes takes time to work up the courage to go for the heart, but the velvety texture of freshly prepared beef heart makes it worth it when you do.

Where to Try It: If you’re interested in sampling the street food, this is one of the safest options (as compared to fried foods, which can attract a lot of bacteria if they’re left to cool before consumption). You can find tasty anticuchos anywhere in Peru, although if you’re in the Ica region, the cradle of Afro-Peruvian culture that would be the most traditional choice.

Rocoto Relleno: Although it resembles a red bell pepper, the pepper used in rocoto relleno is spicy. After being boiled to tame its heat, it’s stuffed with ground beef and egg, then topped with cheese and backed.

Where to Try It: The best place to try it is Arequipa

Alpaca: The meat of this South American camelid is leaner and gamier than beef, somewhat like buffalo.

Where to Try It: Although Lima and Cusco have delectable options as well, Arequipa has some of the country’s most renowned alpaca restaurants.

Pollo a la Brasa: Roast chicken may not seem foreign enough to make it onto your travel food wishlist, but the marinade used before the meat is put on the spit gives Peruvian Pollo a la Brasa a distinct smoky flavor.

Where to Try It: Alongside Peruvian Chinese joints (Chifas), pollerías are among the most ubiquitous restaurants. Try it anywhere (although Cusco’s is quite nice).

Juanes: This spiced rice and chicken package is steamed in a bijao leaf. Although chicken is the most common, you can also find fish or yuca versions. The name is derived from John the Baptist (patron saint of the Peruvian Amazon), and the round bundle on a plate supposedly refers to the saint’s untimely end.

Where to Try It: Make sure to try this emblematic dish if you’re passing through the cities of the Peruvian Amazon: Iquitos, Tarapoto, or Puerto Maldonado.

Best Time to Travel- When to Visit Peru

Best Time to Travel- When to Visit Peru

Best Time to See: The Andes

 Flying into Cusco peru Heading towards Mt Salkantay

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The vast Andean mountain range includes fertile valleys marked by patchwork subsistence farming, traditional adobe cities with cobblestone streets and colorfully dressed locals, and the Incan ruins of fortresses, temples, and terracing. The glacial peaks provide a scenic challenge to the most intrepid travelers, and the jungle brow (high-altitude jungle) and cloud forests help make the Andes the region housing the most microclimates in Peru. Travelers visit to explore the former imperial capital of the Inca Empire, Cusco, discover for themselves the iconic Machu Picchu Archeological Complex, and practice extreme sports along the mountainsides and river rapids.

The weather is extraordinarly varied, meaning that cold mornings and frigid nights can combine with sunny, very hot afternoons. During the rainy season, it can rain everyday of your stay, but generally in short bursts. Bring layers that will allow you to adjust to the temperature shifts, and don’t forget the sunblock even during the rainy season- the sun scorches at higher altitudes.

Dry Season: May to October 

thumbs up Inti Raymi Festival & Cusco’s Anniversary (June)
thumbs up Clearer TrailsThe Plaza de Armas of Cusco
thumbs up Better Views- especially Machu Picchu
thumbs up Hillsides Bloom (September)
thumbs down Higher demand & more crowding
thumbs down Higher prices

Wet Season: November to April

thumbs down Uncomfortable for hiking (muddy paths, potential Machu Picchu through the Vineslandslides)
thumbs down Clouded views
thumbs down Unexpected dangers & delays (flooded roads, derailed train tracks)
thumbs up Fewer people
thumbs up Great bargains
thumbs up New Years in Cusco
thumbs up Fiestas Patrias Independence Days throughout Peru Llama at Awanacancha near Cusco(April)

What to do: explore the Sacred Valley of the Incas, raft the Apurimac River rapids, hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, watch a traditional weaving demonstration, visit Sacsayhuaman Fortress, tour the former imperial capital of the Incas

Best Time to See: Desert Coast

Penguins of the Ballestas Islands misti  Boarding light aircraft in Nazca

 

 

 

Peru’s arid Pacific coast is home to the ancient cities of Chan Chan and Sipán, the Paracas   Reserve, and the Nazca Lines. While Nazca, Ica, and Paracas are hot and sunny throughout the year, epitomizing general conceptions of desert climes, you’ll notice some anomalies: Lima is very humid due to coastal fog and breezes from the Pacific, which regulate the city’s temperature so that it’s never too hot or too cold. Meanwhile, the cooling effects of the Humboldt current means you can see penguins off of the coast of Paracas, in the Ballestas Islands.

At least in Lima, one can categorize two seasons, summer and winter, with May and November acting as transitional months with dramatic temperature fluctuations:

Summer: December to April

thumbs up Temperatures average 78.8 F in Lima
thumbs up Clear skies most dayslima catheddral
thumbs up “Cielo de Brujas” famously colorful sunsets
thumbs down Crowded beaches
thumbs up Ica & Nazca dry and sunny throughout year

Winter: June to October

thumbs down Averaging 59°C in Lima
thumbs down Mainly gray skies in Lima
thumbs down Omnipresent coastal fog known as Garúain LimaCotahuasi Canyon
thumbs down Sandstorms in Paracas
thumbs up Ica & Nazca dry and sunny throughout year
thumbs up Beaches along the north still sunny
thumbs up Low Tourist Season- Less Crowding
thumbs up Low Tourist Season- More Bargains
thumbs up Better waves for surfing
thumbs up Bullfighting season in Lima
thumbs up Lord of Miracles Festival in Lima (Oct/Nov)
thumbs up St Rose of Lima Festival in LimaThe Oasis town of Huacachina

What to do: Hike one of the world’s deepest canyons, fly over the Nazca Lines, Sandboard giant sand dunes near Huacachina Oasis, surf in Mancora, watch the penguins and sea lions of the Ballestas Islands, tackle the glacial peaks of Chachani, bike down Misti Volcano

Best Time to See: The Amazon

Amazon river boat Brightly colored Amazon parrot Exploring Iquitos

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Amazon Rainforest houses an astounding diversity of exotic plants and animals, as well as tribes indigenous to the area, who still uphold their timeless traditions in the face of an ever-encroaching modernity. Although much of this treasure is forbidden to access in order to protect its pristine nature and delicate ecosystems, there is a border area where tourism and scientific study are permitted. (Between the two zones, there’s a buffer zone to protect the refuge area.) Along the rivers and the jungle paths of the outer zone, one can find commune with capybara, sloths, monkeys, and more.

In the rainforest, high heat, frequent rains and 85% humidity come with the terrain. Although a wet season and dry season is frequently referenced, there isn’t much actual variation in rainfall throughout the year. The river water levels, however, can vary up to 40 feet throughout the year, mainly due to runoff from snow melting along the eastern slopes of the Andes.

December Thru May: High Water SeasonFishing for Paiche in Iquitos  

thumbs up Cooler temperatures (averaging 86 F)
thumbs down Trails & paths flooded
thumbs down More mosquitoes
thumbs up More exuberant, blooming vegetation
thumbs up Carnaval (Feb/May)

Giant Ceiba Tree in IquitosJune Thru November: Low Water Season

thumbs down Higher temperatures (averaging 98 F)
thumbs up More trails & paths accessible
thumbs up Fewer mosquitos
thumbs up Better fishing
thumbs up Migratory birds in flight
thumbs down Less exubuerant vegetation
thumbs down Riverways not navigable
thumbs up More animals gather riverside (less dispersal due to loss of terrestrial water pools)
thumbs down San Juan Festival (end of June)

What to do: visit an indigenous tribal community to learn Giant Lily Pads in Iquitosabout their way of life, swim with pink dolphins, visit a macaw clay lick, fish for piranha, visit monkey island, go on night canoe trip to see glowing cayman eyes, watch the sun set over the Amazon River, visit traditional river house

Ayahuasca Experiences: Into the Amazon

Ayahuasca Experiences: Into the Amazon

For centuries, shamans in the indigenous communities of the Amazon Basin have been preparing a hallucinogenic brew known as Ayahuasca for spiritual, self-improvement, and healing purposes. Apprentices spend years studying the healing properties of individual plants and the spiritual associations of each under the guidance of an elder shaman. During this time each apprentice develops his own spirit songs, icaros, believed to be taught to them by the spirits of the Amazon.

Recently, Ayahuasca’s popularity has been on the rise, along with other shamanic services, as a segment of what’s commonly referred to as mystical travel has been on the rise throughout Peru, thanks to promotion by government tourist agencies which even sponsors ayahuasca festivals. Travelers interested in trying Ayahuasca can visit healing retreats where they can take part in multiple ceremonies. Many do so for a spiritual experience, increased self-knowledge, or, increasingly, as part of their struggle against depression or addiction. If you’re interested in arranging such an experience, contact Pirwa Travel Service for more information.

Preparing the Brew

The Quechua name is rooted in the native belief that ayahuasca is the cord which permits the spirit to leave the body without dying- aya means spirit and waska, cord. Preparations can include a varying combination of leaves, seeds, and bark, but the caapi vine, considered the gatekeeper and guide to otherworldly realms, is always present. In its natural state, the vine is a purgative, but boiled together with other plants it has hallucinogenic effects.

There are many other barks and plants which can traditionally be added for their spiritual properties; Remo Caspi bark, for instance, is used for healing dark energy, and Capirona bark for cleansing. Each plant which could be added has a recognizable spirit. For example, Ayahuma bark, used for repairing fractured souls, appears as a headless giant.

The Ceremonies

Ceremonies last about four hours and begin during the dusk following a brief midday fast, when the shaman blesses the ayahuasca with mapacho tobacco to ward off negative spirits and pay homage to the ayahuasca’s spirits, asking for their assistance. Each participant is then given some of the bitter brew and the lights are shut off. Unfortunately vomiting is to be expected, and is considered part of the purging of dark energy. The shamans will begin to sing or whistle his icaros to the rhythm of their chakapas, leaf rattles, to call forth the unique assistance of different plants and to guide participants through the process. The visions begin after about 20 minutes; many feel that they are traveling among realities and wrestling with their fears. Sting speaks very favorably of his experience trying Ayahuasca in a Brazilian church, during which he says he had a vision of chasing a bee through a Joshua tree for hours.

Popular Ayahuasca Destinations

The most popular Ayahuasca destinations are in the Amazon, especially in the large jungle city of Iquitos and the outlying Shipibo indigenous community, San Francisco. If you are unable to make it to the jungle, you can also participate in Ayahuasca ceremonies in the Andean region, including the Sacred Valley of the Incas outside of Cusco.

CAUTION: As most shamans are unfamiliar with Western pharmaceuticals and preparations vary widely, it is your responsibility to research possible severe adverse reactions with prescription medications or allergies. If you are taking prescription medication, you are advised to abstain, as trying ayahuasca without being certain which plants and in what quantities your shaman has chosen could be risky.