Pirwa Travel Guide: Discover the Surreal Beauty of Uyuni Salar

One of the most striking geological wonders Bolivia offers is the Uyuni Salt Flats. This child of prehistoric lakes, with its peaks of ancient submerged volcanoes referred to as ‘islands’ and carved by erosion into a delicate filigree, its brine lake under a salt crust, picturesque lagoons where flamingos breed, and giant cacti, deserves a spot on the list. During the rainy season, a light layer of water converts it into a giant mirror, and it’s expanse and flatness makes it more preferable for calibrating satellites than the oceans. Multi-day tours of Uyuni don’t only include the world’s largest salt flats themselves, but also the surreal surrounding landscape, marked by gigantic cacti, red and green lagoons, feeding flamingos, ‘islands’ of prehistoric coral, shooting geysers, hotels made entirely of salt, and bizarre eroded rock structures.

Located at 11,995 feet above sea level in the Bolivian high plateau, or altiplano, Uyuni is the largest salt desert in the world, with 10 billion tons of salt and 50-70% of the world’s lithium reserves concentrated in its underground brine lake. Pirwa Travel offers both full day and 3 day tours of the unrivaled Salt Flats depart by 4×4 from the town of Uyuni, but we fiercely believe that it’s worth investing the time in taking a multi-day trip which will take you into the surrounding landscape.

The first stop during most tours is the train cemetery, located near the town of Uyuni. The local railroad was constructed near the end of the 1800s, but suffered frequent sabotage by indigenous Aymara. The trains were eventually abandoned in the mid-1900s when mining collapsed. Continuing on, one arrives at the one-street town of Colchani, whose residents, organized into a cooperative, are the only people permitted to collect salt from Uyuni. Visitors can observe the traditional, rustic methods they use as well as purchase a variety of salt-based artisanal goods.

From Colchani, one truly enters the white expanse that comprises Uyuni Salar proper. Most visitors take advantage of the impressive flatness of the Salar (which is so reliable that scientists use it for satellite calibrations) to take souvenir photos playing with perspective. The expanse is not complete however, as it’s occasionally interrupted by ‘islands’. These aren’t true islands, but rather the peaks of ancient volcanoes which once dominated the landscape but were eventually submerged by a giant prehistoric lake, Lake Minchin. These unusual and fragile structures resemble coral and boast deposits of fossils and algae. They are home to giant cacti, some as tall as 39ft, and of rabbit-like vizcacha colonies.

One-day tours of Uyuni Salar will only come this far, while other tours continue on to see much more. The tours can vary based on the lodging provided: some tours include camping, some will house you in local homes or rustic lodges, and others will check you into a salt hotel.

The first building erected in the center of Uyuni was the Salt Hotel, which is no longer operational due to the hygienic difficulties of building a hotel in the middle of a desert. Today, it acts as a sort of museum where visitors can marvel at its construction made completely of salt from walls to beds. It and other buildings like it show how locals can cope with scarce traditional building materials. However, Salt Hotels have popped up throughout Uyuni, although in more sustainable locations than the center of the Salt Flats.

One of the highlights of a multi-day tour is the variety of unique lakes. There’s the Stinking Lagoon, named for the smell that the sulfur and algae in its water produce, the vibrant Colored Lagoon, Cañapa, Chiarcota, Honda, Colored, and Radadita. In November, these serve as a breeding ground for flamingos, most notably the rare James’s Flamingo, and other migratory birds. Upon entering Eduardo Albaroa National Park, one reaches the Red Lagoon, which is a great flamingo and bird-watching site, and the famously beautiful Green Lagoon, which mirrors the Licancabur Volcano at whose base it lies.

Four hours from the lakes, you’ll technically be in the Siloli Desert, which is part of the driest desert in the world, the Atacama. Towering rock formations eroded into improbable shapes, most notably the Tree Stone, mark the landscape. Continuing on, one arrives at the Morning Sun (Sol de la Mañana) Geysers, which are technically fumaroles. These explosions through surface holes and mud pools erupt every full seconds in a noisy, intimidating display. You can soothe your nerved nearby, however, at the area hot springs.

The most important things to keep in mind when arranging a tour of Uyuni Salar are lodging, food and beverages, and group size. As you’ll be covering a lot of ground in a jeep, group size is one of the most important factors affecting how comfortable you’ll be. Remember to bring sunglasses, which are crucial due to the sun’s reflection on the sand, as well as sunblock, gloves and a hat, walking shoes, and warm sleepwear. If traveling between November and February, you’ll want a raincoat as well. (Visiting Uyuni Salar during the rainy season does have its perks: it becomes a large mirror when water remains on the surface, allowing for some incredible photos.)