Don’t Miss the Colorful Fiesta del Gran Poder in La Paz

April 4, 2013 Pirwa

The dates are set: this year, the Fiesta del Gran Poder (Festival of the All Powerful) festival will fall on Saturday, May 25^th. Aside from Carnaval, this is the city’s biggest celebration of the year- if you’re traveling through South America in May, do what you can not to miss it!

The festival’s roots lie in a painting of the holy trinity with Indian or mestizo features, painted by an unknown artist in the early 17^th century and donated by a novice nun to a La Paz convent upon her entrance to the institution. Over the centuries, the painting would change hands many times while the 2nd figure in its composition, Christ the All Powerful, acquired a reputation for granting miracles. In the 1930s, a church was founded in its name. Over the ensuing decades, a celebration which began as a modest candlelit procession and a few dancers evolved into a huge festival with a riotous street party feel and more than 60,000 performers organized into associations representing La Paz’s neighborhoods and groups.

Brightly attired dancers and musicians take part in parades and processions with representations of the image, showcasing the Bolivian folkloric culture. Many dancers wear voluminous Andean skirts and click matracas along to the music. Others don historically-inspired Conquistador, Inca, slave, and indigenous costumes. Each set of dancers is preceded and followed by its own brass bands.

In spite of costumes averaging 25.5kg, performers continue for 5 hours, following a route along the city’s central streets (in the popular zone) en route to the Hernando Siles stadium. Dancers hope that by promising to perform 3 years, their wishes will be granted by the miraculous image.

Bolivia has a strong folkloric tradition boasting iconic dances such as the Diablada (Devil’s Dance), reminiscent of when Bolivian miners would give coca leaf and other offerings to a diabolical figure- the mines’ guardian- in exchange for safe passage. Another popular dance is the Morenada (Dance of the Black Slave), with exaggerated masks and barrel-shaped attire. Costumes are unique to each dance; for example, in the Waca Takhoris (Dancing Bulls), dancers don the stuffed head and dried pelt of a bull, while many female Tinku dancers wear hats strewn with ribbons.

Travelers’ Tips

Banks will be closed, so make sure you have what you need beforehand.
Book your lodging in La Paz early to avoid escalating prices or unavailability.
Streets around the city center will be closed and congestion will be high- move around by foot if possible.
Stake out a spot early along the route. If you don’t mind paying, you can buy a seat in the stadium.
Be wary of pickpockets- secure cash and small electronics in inner pockets and take care of them.
Study up: Check out our earlier posts for info on crossing the Peru – Bolivia border and preventing altitude sickness.
At La Paz’s high altitude, don’t forgo the sun protection!