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Lord of the Miracles in Lima on October 18-28

Lord of the Miracles in Lima on October 18-28

Celebration of the “Black Christ”

Doña Pepa's Turron: Exuberantly Decorated but Still Delicious
Doña Pepa's Turron: Exuberantly Decorated but Still Delicious

Today kicks off the Feast of the Lord of Miracles in Lima, one of Peru’s most revered religious festivities. Its main ceremony is the procession through the streets of Lima, the largest in South America. During this 24-hour procession 1000s of purple-clad believers follow those carrying the icon on a 2-ton litter resting on the shoulders of faithful who carry it in short shifts before passing the load onto the next group.

 

The Purple Procession
The Purple Procession

As they make their wayfrom the church ofLas Nazarenas, crossing downtown Lima, to the church of La Merced in Barrios Altos, singers, dancers, and vendors strew the streets with flowers. The streets fill with vendors of a wide variety of typical dishes and sweets, such as the famous Turrón de Doña Pepa, a sticky anise-flavored sweet. Its creator was a black slave, Josefa Marmanillo (Doña Pepa), who believed that her devotion to the Lord of Miracles returned to her the use of her arms and hands. It’s the signature treat of October and despite its… different… appearance, is delicious- we recommend giving it a try!

Lima’s bullfighting season in October and November is named after and held in honor of the Lord of Miracles, with the best bullfighters in the world gathering in Lima’s 200 year old bullring (the 2nd oldest in the world) to compete.

Humble Origins

Africans in Peru, slaves as well as free, were allowed to form guilds which managed altars or chapels and served for baptisms, meetings, wakes, and sometimes economic assistance. Around 1651 the Pachamamilla guild was founded and in its seat, on one of the crude adobe walls of the slave quarters, a black angolan slave or freedman painted the famous image. Four years later 1655 a devastating earthquake shook Lima and Callao, tumbling temples, mansions, and houses, with thousands dead and injured. Pachacamilla was leveled but for the wall with the Christ painting. Meetings and masses began to be held at the image, now considered miraculous, despite the disapproval of authorities as the gatherings grew in size. The painting survived numerous attempts to erase it, another earthquake of astonishing destructive power in 1746 and subsequent tidal wave. The Church of Las Nazarenas was built around the image and a replica made for the procession, which has been held every year since the 1746 earthquake.

Tourism Week & the Independence Festival of Pisco (Sept 1-14)

Tourism Week & the Independence Festival of Pisco (Sept 1-14)

In Pisco the city’s Tourism Week (actually two weeks) celebrations, meant to promote the main attractions of the province, continue. Throughout the coming week there’ll be art and food fairs, outdoor concerts, parades, Pisco brandy and wine tastings and competitions, Peruvian Paso horse shows, cockfights, and the International Sandboarding Competition.

There’ll be a parade today through the Main Square of Pisco, as it’s the anniversary of the landing of the United Armies of the Andes under the command of General San Martín to Paracas Bay. Four thousand Chilean, Argentinean, and Peruvian troops disembarked and headed to Pisco, where they set up General Headquarters near the main square from which they would launch the first battles of the Wars of Independence, clashing with Royalists throughout the nation over the following years until finally declaring Peru an independent nation.

How to Get to Pisco

Pisco is about 4 hours south of Lima by car on the Panamerican Highway, in the Department of Ica. Since it’s such a short trip, travelers usually get to Pisco by bus. by Contact Pirwa Travel if you’d like assistance arranging transport. If you’re staying at one of Pirwa’s Hostels in the Miraflores district of Lima, just stop by the in-house travel desk and get answers to all your travel questions.

While You’re There….

Grab a windbreaker, hat, and sunscreen and make your way to Paracas Bay and grab a motorboat to the Ballestas Islands to view the colonies of diving Humboldt Penguins, lazing fur seals and playful sea lions, and a great variety of sea birds that make their home among the grey, red, and sand-colored rocky outcrops collectively known as the Ballestas, carved into elegant twisting tunnels, arches and caves by water and time. Occasionally dolphins will enter the waters as well, or, with luck, humpback whales. If you’re planning on visiting, remember that Pirwa Travel offers tours of the Ballestas Islands and Paracas Reserves.

 

Dancing to a New Rhythm at the Cañete Afro-Peruvian Festival!

Dancing to a New Rhythm at the Cañete Afro-Peruvian Festival!

Cañete DancersThe fertile Cañete River Valley was once known as the Huarco (Hanging) Valley due to the predilection of its people to mete out this punishment to enemies and rebellious tribes. The Spanish christened it Villa Santa María de Cañete and imported the first black slaves to attend to agricultural tasks. The cultural adaptations the slaves made while trying to preserve their collective heritage in a new environment transformed the Cañete Valley into an enclave of rich Afro-Peruvian culture. It is the premier producer of one of the most famous products of Peru, the white-grape Pisco brandy, as well as wine and another grape-based liquor known as Cachina. It´s popular for its gastronomy, which includes rice with duck, carapulcra (a dish of stewed dried potatoes), beans stewed in a tomato sauce, and spicy stewed shrimp, with candied medlar (loquat) for dessert.

Today the valley is Playing the Cajónconsidered the cradle and capital of Afro-Peruvian Art. August is Afro-Peruvian Arts Month, and on Aug 12th the National Festival of Afro-Peruvian Art takes place in the valley´s capital, San Vicente de Cañete (often shortened to Cañete). The city is located about 89mi south of Lima. Parade floats each have dance teams representing different neighborhoods and institutions moving to their own beat and that of the street bands. The festival coincides with Cañete Tourist Week, meaning that the party will continue for days. This is the best time to enjoy the unique dance, music, and cuisine of the Cañete Valley. The best examples of Afro-Peruvian cultural expression will be honored at an awards ceremony later in the day, followed by a festive all-star concert where attendees and performers all celebrate together.

While you´re there …

Rafting in LunahuanáThe towns of Cañete and nearby Lunahuaná boast some of Peru´s best wineries, making them a must for Pisco lovers. If a vineyard tour and wine-tasting is too subdued for you, Lunahuaná is also popular for rafting or kayaking class II-IV rapids along the Cañete River as well as other adventure sports.

Incahuasi Archeological Complex

Ruins at IncahuasiAfter 4 years of stubborn resistence, the powerful chiefdom of Huarco was conquered by Inca Túpac Yuapanqui, who had the city of Incahuasi (House of the Inca) built in the image of Cusco, as he Incahuasi to be of primary importance in the region. The Incahuasi ruins comprise storehouses, some palace wall remnants, columns from the sun temple, and a fortress as well as some ruins of the city proper, such as the main square, the center for executions and artistic expression.

Castle of Unánue

Unanue CastleIn the countryside, rises the 19th century Castle Unanue, which was bought in Bavaria and transported in pieces over the ocean to be rebuilt along the shores of Cañete River over a period of 60 years, at a cost of a thousand golden pesos (today a million dollars). With agrarian reform came sacking and obscurity for Castle Unanue, whose European gardens dried up and whose peacocks and other birds disappeared along with the tortoises and colorful fish. The 2007 quake substantially damaged the castle, leaving the minarets in ruins and cracking the structure up to the embrasures. Regardless, the flamboyant style of Castle Unanue is unique in South America and still dazzles despite its state of disrepair.

Other popular attractions include the modern dance clubs and seaside resorts of Asia District, the old fisherman´s cove turned surfing mecca of Cerro Azul, and the protected Forest Reserve adjacent to the mouth of the Nuevo Imperial Canal.

Expo Sabor Cebiche Perú 2011

Expo Sabor Cebiche Perú 2011

Callao´s 1st Annual Ceviche Fair

Beautiful Plate of CevichePreparations are underway for Callao´s 1st Annual Ceviche Fair, Expo Sabor Cebiche Perú 2001, which will be taking place from the 22nd-24th of July on the esplanade of Real Felipe Fort at the Por of Callao.  More than 40 of the area´s best-known restaurants will be participating, among them La Pescadería, El Rincón del Ronco, El Mirador, Las Ballestas, El Colorado, and El Cebiche del Rey, as well as some metropolitan Lima establishment.  Stands will be judged by the quality of their dishes, service, and atmosphere, with the winner taking home a ticket to the United States to participate in Taste of Perú 2011 in Miami this coming November.

Although ceviche stars, being Peru´s national dish, there´ll be a large variety of sea-food based dishes on the menu, including but not limited to ceviche´s stylish Japanese-influenced little brother, tiradito del rey, corvine fish in nauta sauce, fish skewers, cojinova fish in mushroom fish, and more…You´ll be right on the oceanfront in an area known for offering flavorful and fresh seafood dishes, so no matter what you choose you can´t lose.

While You´re There, Don´t Miss….

The Fair´s site is perfect for sightseeing, as Real Felipe Fortress on the Port of Callaoits located at one of Callao´s primary tourist attractions, La Fortaleza de Real Felipe (The Royal Phillip Fort) on the Port of Callao.  This pentagonal 18th century stone fortress was designed to defend against British pirates and privateers in search of gold-laden galleons.  The fortress provided refuge of the new government and parliament of Perú in the first years of independence, when Perú was still in the process of throwing off the colonial yoke.

From the port you can take a boat to the rocky outcrops known as the Palomino Islands, about an hour out.  From here you´ll be on the other side of the original conflict, as one of these, El Frontón, used to be a refuge for pirates targeting the port before becoming Sea Lion Colony at Islas Palominothe site of an infamous prison.  The island that will take your breath away, however, is San Lorenzo, a natural refuge for sea birds as well as for a sociable sea lion colony 60,000-strong.  You´ll also see hundreds of Humboldt Penguins creating a ruckus, though these are shyer than the sea lions.  The Palomino Islands are a great alternative for those who can´t fit the Ballestas Islands into their trip.

Remember:

The Port of Callao is a well-frequented and welcoming area, but there are many areas of urban Callao which are not safe for travelers.  As such, it bears remembering,

  • Don´t try wandering around other areas without researching them first
  • Don´t flaunt your valuables (cameras, mp3s, money belt)
  • Stay elsewhere, as you don´t need much time to explore the sights here

Tabletop Soccer at Pirwa Inclan in Miraflores, LimaPirwa´s Hostels in Lima are all located in the well-heeled and relaxed beachfront Miraflores district, which most agree is the best place for travelers to base themselves when exploring Lima.  The area is irresistibly green, with flowery gardens and ample park space.  You´ll be within walking distance to the ocean, quality restaurants and sidewalk cafés, the luxe cliffside Larcomar shopping center, and a lively nightlife that offers minimal safety concerns.  Miraflores is one of the city´s safest areas, and Pirwa is there offering both backpacker (the Pirwa Prada) and B&B-style (the Pirwa Incan) hostels.