Lima – Page 12 – Pirwa Hostels BLOG

Best Time to Travel- When to Visit Peru

May 29, 2013 Pirwa

Best Time to See: The Andes

The vast Andean mountain range includes fertile valleys marked by patchwork subsistence farming, traditional adobe cities with cobblestone streets and colorfully dressed locals, and the Incan ruins of fortresses, temples, and terracing. The glacial peaks provide a scenic challenge to the most intrepid travelers, and the jungle brow (high-altitude jungle) and cloud forests help make the Andes the region housing the most microclimates in Peru. Travelers visit to explore the former imperial capital of the Inca Empire, Cusco, discover for themselves the iconic Machu Picchu Archeological Complex, and practice extreme sports along the mountainsides and river rapids.

The weather is extraordinarly varied, meaning that cold mornings and frigid nights can combine with sunny, very hot afternoons. During the rainy season, it can rain everyday of your stay, but generally in short bursts. Bring layers that will allow you to adjust to the temperature shifts, and don’t forget the sunblock even during the rainy season- the sun scorches at higher altitudes.

Dry Season: May to October

Inti Raymi Festival & Cusco’s Anniversary (June)
Clearer Trails
Better Views- especially Machu Picchu
Hillsides Bloom (September)
Higher demand & more crowding
Higher prices

Wet Season: November to April

Uncomfortable for hiking (muddy paths, potential landslides)
Clouded views
Unexpected dangers & delays (flooded roads, derailed train tracks)
Fewer people
Great bargains
New Years in Cusco
Fiestas Patrias Independence Days throughout Peru (April)

What to do: explore the Sacred Valley of the Incas, raft the Apurimac River rapids, hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, watch a traditional weaving demonstration, visit Sacsayhuaman Fortress, tour the former imperial capital of the Incas

Best Time to See: Desert Coast

Peru’s arid Pacific coast is home to the ancient cities of Chan Chan and Sipán, the Paracas Reserve, and the Nazca Lines. While Nazca, Ica, and Paracas are hot and sunny throughout the year, epitomizing general conceptions of desert climes, you’ll notice some anomalies: Lima is very humid due to coastal fog and breezes from the Pacific, which regulate the city’s temperature so that it’s never too hot or too cold. Meanwhile, the cooling effects of the Humboldt current means you can see penguins off of the coast of Paracas, in the Ballestas Islands.

At least in Lima, one can categorize two seasons, summer and winter, with May and November acting as transitional months with dramatic temperature fluctuations:

Summer: December to April

Temperatures average 78.8 F in Lima
Clear skies most days
“Cielo de Brujas” famously colorful sunsets
Crowded beaches
Ica & Nazca dry and sunny throughout year

Winter: June to October

Averaging 59°C in Lima
Mainly gray skies in Lima
Omnipresent coastal fog known as Garúain Lima
Sandstorms in Paracas
Ica & Nazca dry and sunny throughout year
Beaches along the north still sunny
Low Tourist Season- Less Crowding
Low Tourist Season- More Bargains
Better waves for surfing
Bullfighting season in Lima
Lord of Miracles Festival in Lima (Oct/Nov)
St Rose of Lima Festival in Lima

What to do: Hike one of the world’s deepest canyons, fly over the Nazca Lines, Sandboard giant sand dunes near Huacachina Oasis, surf in Mancora, watch the penguins and sea lions of the Ballestas Islands, tackle the glacial peaks of Chachani, bike down Misti Volcano

Best Time to See: The Amazon

The Amazon Rainforest houses an astounding diversity of exotic plants and animals, as well as tribes indigenous to the area, who still uphold their timeless traditions in the face of an ever-encroaching modernity. Although much of this treasure is forbidden to access in order to protect its pristine nature and delicate ecosystems, there is a border area where tourism and scientific study are permitted. (Between the two zones, there’s a buffer zone to protect the refuge area.) Along the rivers and the jungle paths of the outer zone, one can find commune with capybara, sloths, monkeys, and more.

In the rainforest, high heat, frequent rains and 85% humidity come with the terrain. Although a wet season and dry season is frequently referenced, there isn’t much actual variation in rainfall throughout the year. The river water levels, however, can vary up to 40 feet throughout the year, mainly due to runoff from snow melting along the eastern slopes of the Andes.

December Thru May: High Water Season

Cooler temperatures (averaging 86 F)
Trails & paths flooded
More mosquitoes
More exuberant, blooming vegetation
Carnaval (Feb/May)

June Thru November: Low Water Season

Higher temperatures (averaging 98 F)
More trails & paths accessible
Fewer mosquitos
Better fishing
Migratory birds in flight
Less exubuerant vegetation
Riverways not navigable
More animals gather riverside (less dispersal due to loss of terrestrial water pools)
San Juan Festival (end of June)

What to do: visit an indigenous tribal community to learn about their way of life, swim with pink dolphins, visit a macaw clay lick, fish for piranha, visit monkey island, go on night canoe trip to see glowing cayman eyes, watch the sun set over the Amazon River, visit traditional river house

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10 Years of Pirwa

April 20, 2013 Pirwa

A decade ago, Pirwa Hostels was founded with the dream of creating a welcoming haven where travelers could relax and interact, one providing an experience rather than merely a bed and shower. It all began with only Pirwa Colonial Backpackers hostel in Cusco, but despite these modest beginnings, the Pirwa Family has grown incredibly. As we approach our 10 year anniversary this June, we wanted to look back at some of the milestones along the way.

We’ve grown a lot in the last ten years, improving facilities and services based on your feedback along the way. Today, Pirwa Hostels boasts backpackers’ hostels or Bed & Breakfasts throughout Peru and Bolivia: two in Lima, four in Cusco, two in Machu Picchu, and one each in Nazca, Puno, Arequipa, and La Paz. The Pirwa family has also grown into a one-stop shop offering transport and excursions through our own travel agency, Pirwa Travel Service, whose friendly s staff helps travelers with all aspects of their trip.

There’s also been quite a bit of formal recognition over the years, none prouder than when the agency became an officially recognized Inca Trail operator. Other notable events were Pirwa Colonial winning Hostelworld’s #1 Hostel in Peru award in 2009, and Pirwa Machu Picchu B&B winning Hostelbooker’s Cleanest Hostel award in 2011.

It hasn’t been all work, however. Last year was a blast: We added new activities we hadn’t done before, such as free weekly walking tours of Cusco that always ended with free drinks, and the New Years Party at Pirwa Colonial was the biggest we ever had! Currently, we’re happily planning all of the events for our anniversary week this June- details will be forthcoming soon!

So far this year, we renovated several hostels, so that even after all these years and the memories they hold, they feel new again, and more adapted to the needs of our friends and guests from around the world.

Through hard work, trial and error, and lots of listening, Pirwa Hostels’ founders created something different, and you’ll see them at various events still putting their all into making sure that guests enjoy their stay and have an unforgettable. Were it not for the support of our backpacking and traveling friends, we could never have experienced all of these things. So from all of us to all of you, thank you for the memories. The next decade will be even better- we hope that you’ll experience it with us as part of the Pirwa Family!

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A Peculiar Breed:The Dancing Stallions of Peru Compete This April

April 10, 2013 Pirwa

Lima’s annual National Show and Competition is a major event in local cultural life, garnering a festival-like atmosphere and lasting a week each April. This year, the Official Peruvian Paso Horse contest will take place from April 14th through April 21st. As always, the site will be Mamacona Fair Center just south of Lima (near Pachacamac Archeological Complex).

Daily competitions are followed by evening concerts and other events celebrating the Peruvian coastal, or Criollo, culture. Highlights include a closing parade and prize ceremony accompanied by folkloric dancers and music as well as a food fair, and the 5^th National Marinera on Horse & Foot Competition.

The compact Peruvian Stepping horse, more commonly referred to as the Peruvian Paso horse, is unique in the equine world- rather than the standard trot, it employs a peculiar parallel 4-beat sidestepping which aficionados know as the paso llano, or ambladura, the art of the synchronized gait mastered by breeders and riders known as Chalánes. The singular breed is the result of isolation along the desert coast of Peru and a 400 year process of selectively breeding Spanish and Berber horse breeds brought to the country during the Conquest.

The horses’ natural rhythm has won it popularity not only as a show horse, but also a dance partner… in shows and competitions throughout Peru, riders on horseback couple with women on foot in Marinera shows. It is the paso llano which gave rise to the Marinera, Peru’s national dance. Even the costumes worn by dancers are reminiscent of the chalán riders, comprising the saddle and its trimmings, white shirt and trousers, straw hat, vicuña poncho, handkerchief, boots and spurs.

If you’re interested in catching a glimpse of this side of Lima’s social year, you can arrange to be picked up in Miraflores, Lima (the most popular district for travelers to use as a base for their visit to the capital, and the neighborhood where both Pirwa Inclan B&B and Pirwa Prada Backpackers are located) for a ranch visit to learn about the horses and their history and training before continuing on to the National Contest. Ranches that participate in this sort of outing generally include lunch or dinner depending on the schedule (last year, departures were at 10am and 3pm).

For more info on this and other events and outings, don’t forget that Pirwa Travel Service has information counters in both of our hostels in Miraflores. Because we have locations in Lima, Cusco, Puno, Arequipa, Nazca, Machu Picchu, and La Paz, our travel specialists can assist with transport, entrances, treks, and tours throughout Peru and Bolivia.

Check out the following video (set to begin at 7:20s) for a close view of the special gait of the Peruvian Paso Horses:

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Lima Backpackers: Spending Valentine’s Day in the City of Kings

February 13, 2013 Pirwa

The popularity of Valentine’s Day in Peru (where you’ll most likely hear it referred to as Día del Amor) is still on the rise, with exorbitantly priced roses flooding the marketplaces. Last year, February 14^th was declared a national holiday- although it was in recognition of Puno’s famous Virgin of Candelaria Festival rather than everyone’s favorite Hallmark holiday. Many hotels, restaurants, and agencies offer over the top expensive packages for the occasion, but for those of you currently on the road, we thought we’d give a quick primer on Lima for Backpacking Couples.

Among the city’s neighborhoods, Miraflores and Barranco are solid choices. Miraflores, with its long walkway along the seaside cliffs and its many parks and gardens, is often referred to as the greenest area in Lima. One obvious stop is Parque de Amor (Love Park), which opened in Valentine’s Day 1993 and can be instantly recognized by its large statue of two lovers, The Kiss. Surrounding the statue are brightly tiled walls reminiscent of Gaudi and covered in evocative Spanish literary quotes that are fun to peruse for the bookish among us, such as Alberto Vega’s “My dream is a lost island”. The park boasts an unbeatable view of the Pacific Ocean, making it popular with couples wanting to watch the sun set over the sea. Many brides also visit the park while taking their wedding photos. On Valentine’s Day, many couples visit the park to compete in the Longest Kiss contest.

Love Park is part of El Malecón Cisneros, a six-mile stretch of parks along a path following the cliffs overlooking the Pacific. Strolling the walkway is a pleasant, and not to mention free, way of getting to know Lima. Even better, and still a nice budget choice, is to bike it, so if you’re up for some nice scenery and a little exercise, think about renting a bicycle. If you crave a little more excitement, just a few minutes further up from the Parque del Amor is the jump-off site for Parasailing, where you can fly tandem with experienced parasailing guides. Also, as its summertime in Lima, you can arrange for a Surfing lesson, which range from US$10-$20, or rent some equipment.

Miraflores also has the most lively park in Lima, Kennedy Park, which is always bustling with people, artists, musicians playing creole music, jugglers, and other street performers. Expect lots of the surrounding bars and clubs to be celebrating, such as Barbilonia Bar with its “Power Ballads” night, although most do have covers. Just beware the roving rose sellers should you choose to kick back in the park for a while.

You’ll find both of Pirwa’s hostels in Lima a short walk from Kennedy Park, Pirwa Inclan B&B and Pirwa Prada Backpackers. Not only are we ideally located in what most consider to be the best base from which to explore Lima, the neighborhood of Miraflores, but we’re also close to a variety of Valentine’s options!

The neighborhood right next to Miraflores is Lima’s most bohemian and artistic, Barranco, right next to Miraflores. The streets of this small neighborhood are probably the most colorful and charming of all of Lima. If you find yourself passing through, do plan to make a stop at another landmark born of Valentine’s Day, the wooden Bridge of Sighs, which spans the Bajada de Baños, a stone walkway descending to the beach. Dining in Chala with a view of the Bridge of Sighs and the ocean even made Time’s list of 10 Things to do in Lima, but unfortunately most area restaurants should be booked up by now, so seaside dining might not be an option. If Chala’s a no go, don’t fear- the area is packed with restaurants and bars. And, if you need a little relationship help, keep this in mind: the legend is that if you can walk across the Bridge of Sighs for the first time without taking a breath, your wishes will come true…

Although it looks like there aren’t as many activities on offer this year as last, the Magical Water Circuit at Reserve Park will be putting on another show, beginning with puppets for the kids at 6pm before transitioning into concerts for the adults. A detailed program hasn’t been made available, although the coordinated light, laser, and music show at Fantasia Fountain generally takes place at 7:15pm, 8:15pm, and 9:30pm. Entrance to the park is S/4.00 (soles).

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Miracles & Bullfights: The Purple Month in Lima

October 11, 2012 Pirwa

Procession of the Black Christ

In one week, on October 18^th, the ten day celebration of the Lord of Miracles begins, one of Peru’s most revered religious festivities. (It’s also affectionately known as the Black Christ due to the icon’s origins and appearance.) It has been taking place for three hundred years and is considered a hallmark of limeño identity. One of Peru’s most popular soccer teams, Alianza Lima, even changes the color of their team jerseys each October.

The festival’s main event is one of South America’s largest processions, during which the faithful bear the weight on their shoulders of the Black Christ on a 2-ton litter, carrying the icon in short shifts before passing it on to the next group, and so on for the 24 hour duration of the procession. They’ll depart from Las Nazarenas church, cross Lima’s city center, and make their way to La Merced church in Barrios Altos. Those who carry the icon are accompanied by incense-wielding and shrouded ladies, musicians, singers, dancers, and a multitude of vendors hawking traditional limeño street food and treats.

The signature treat for what’s known as the Purple Month is called Turrón de Doña Pepa, a sticky anise-flavored sweet covered in confetti candy and sprinkles which was created by slave Josefa Marmanillo (Doña Pepa), who believed that her devotion to the Lord of Miracles returned to her the use of her arms and hands. Make sure to give it a try; it’s very sweet and the caramel and anise combination is surprisingly delicious despite the treat’s …festive… appearance. What else should you try? There’s the marinated and grilled intestine known as choncholí, skewered anticucho beef hearts, giant Andean choclo corn, sweet picarones fritters, and the requisite aforementioned turrones.

October also kicks off Lima’s two-month bullfighting season, dedicated to the Lord of Miracles. During this time the best bullfighters from around the world compete at the Plaza de Acho stadium, which at 245 years old is the world’s second oldest bullring still used today. The prize is the 18k Escapulario de Oro and the best bull wins the Escapulario de Plata. During this season there are events every Sunday afternoon, and tickets are available at the Wong and Metro supermarket chains, with cheap tickets in the sun and expensive ones for seats in the shade. Bullfighting is definitely controversial these days, so you could join the spectators in the stadium or the protestors outside… If you are interested in watching an event, please be aware that in Peru it is to the death. There’s a museum showing the history of the stadium, which in its time was one of the world’s largest.

Just by checking the newspapers you can find offers, for special pre-event menus by restaurants who then bus their clients to the bullring. This is a fun option, and relieves you of having to find your way to the Plaza de Acho bullring in Rímac alone.

[Update: We’ve had somecomments from anti-bullfighting activists upset with the promotion of bullfighting on the blog. Since it is a part of the October festivities, and we orient the blog to upcoming events and tourist information, we have included information on Lima’s bullfighting season for those who are interested. However, we do think that any travelers who think they would like to see a bullfight check out some videos and photos of what transpires first, since its bloody nature can be shocking. From now on we’ll try to be more careful in giving equal time to both sides. If you are interested in learning about the growing opposition movement that would like to see the practice banned in protection of animal rights, search for the Peru antitaurino page on facebook.]

A Humble History

During Peru’s colonial period, slaves and freedmen used to form self-help and religious guilds. The October festivities date back to 1651 and the Pachacamilla guild, founded in a shantytown populated by freed slaves of Angolan descent. It was here that an unknown person painted an image of Christ on one of crude adobe walls. When an earthquake devastated Lima a few years later, leveling temples, mansions, homes, and all of Pachacamilla but for the painted wall, masses began to be held at the image despite the disapproval of authorities. Through the second half of the 1600s and first half of the 1700s, the Christ painting survived numerous attempts of erasure and an incredibly destructive earthquake and ensuing tidal wave. After the 1746 earthquake, the Las Nazarenas Church was built around the image, authorities decided to allow the formerly unapproved cult, and the processions began.

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