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The Lord of Miracles: The Purple Month in Lima

The Lord of Miracles: The Purple Month in Lima

Lord_of_Miracles_procession_Lima_Peru_03Lord_of_Miracles_Lima_Peru_02Lord_of_Miracles_procession_Lima_Peru_01

One of Peru’s most prominent religious festivals, the Lord of Miracles, will kick off on October 18th, lasting ten days. October is known as the Purple Month in Lima, which isn’t surprising considering that you’ll see the color appearing everywhere throughout those weeks. In honor of the city’s patron saint, some devotees wear this color all month long. One of Peru’s most popular soccer teams, Alianza Lima, even changes the color of their team jerseys for the month.

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Who is the Lord of Miracles? In the 1650s, Angolan slaves and freedmen formed the Pachacamilla guild, which managed religious services (like baptisms and funerals) and provided economic assistance within the community. One of its members painted the image now known as the Lord of Miracles (or the Black Christ) on a crude adobe wall of the slave quarters. Four years later, an earthquake devastated Lima and Callao, leveling all of Pachacamilla except for the wall with the Christ painting. As meetings and masses began to be held at the image, authorities attempted to halt them. The image survived numerous attempts to erase it, as well as another incredibly destructive earthquake and subsequent tidal wave. Finally, authorities accepted the growing cult, the Church of Nazcarenas was built around the image and the processions began.

Lord_of_Miracles_procession_Lima_Peru_05The main event is one of South America’s largest processions, during which the image is taken from its home church Las Nazarenas and to other historic colonial churches, accompanied by the incense and drums of the faithful. The main procession lasts 24 hours, with thousands taking part. The icon is carried on a 2-ton litter by groups (brotherhoods) who work in short shifts before passing the load on to the next group. They are accompanied by singers and dancers as the streets are strewn with flowers and confetti.

The streets fill with vendors offering a wide Turron_Dona_Pepa_Lord_of_Miracles_Treatvariety of treats, but the signature choice for October is the Turrón de Doña Pepa, a sticky anise-flavored pastry created by a black slave who credited the Lord of Miracles with restoring the use of her arms and hands. If you’re one of those who find the turrón too sweet, you can opt for picarones, pumpkin fritters in syrup. Another traditional choice associated with the festivities are the skewered beef hearts known as anticuchos.

 

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Lima’s bullfighting season also begins in October, and is named in honor of the Lord of Miracles. Some of the world’s best bullfighters gather at the Plaza de Acho, which at 246 years old is the second oldest bullring in the world which is still in use. Events take place every Sunday afternoon, with cheap tickets in the sun and expensive ones in the shade. There’s a growing antitaurino movement in Lima as well, pushing for a ban on bullfighting (which in Peru is to the death). This means you are also likely to see protestors outside the stadium.

For assistance with transport or excursions for Lima, Peru, feel free to contact Pirwa Travel Service, with more than 10 years experience providing travel services throughout Peru and Bolivia!

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Where to Stay & What to Do in Miraflores, Lima

Where to Stay & What to Do in Miraflores, Lima

Reception at Pirwa Inclan B&B in Miraflores, LimaPirwa Inclan B&B is enviably located in Miraflores, often referred to as the “greenest” area in Lima thanks to its plethora of parks and gardens. It’s just a few blocks from Kennedy Park, which in the evenings comes alive with street performers, a market, and young Peruvians heading to its restaurants and clubs.

All of the hostel’s rooms have private bathrooms, whether it’s a private room or the economical six-person shared dormitory. Reception is open 24 hours a day, and there’s a Pirwa Travel desk where you can get detailed answers to your travel questions or arrange transport, guided excursions, or more. When you feel like staying in and relaxing, there’s a foosball table and other games in the TV lounge as well as a terrace with bar.

When you stay in the heart of Miraflores, there are lots of things to do in the area, which is why it’s the most frequently recommended base for visitors to Lima. Some of our suggestions:

  • Sample the nightlife around Calle Paragliding off the Costa Verde in Miraflores, Limade las Pizzas in Kennedy Park
  • Take a surfing lesson on one of the four popular surfing beaches along Miraflores’ Costa Verde: Redondo, Makaha, Waikiki, and La Pampilla. Ask the receptionist to set one up for you!
  • Visit the pre-Incan Huaca Pucllana shrine, an adobe temple from 500AD, open from 9am to 4:30pm every day but Tuesday, it’s closed in the evenings but attractively lit, and only a few blocks from the hostel.
  • Browse the popup market at KennedyVisiting Huaca Pucllana Shrine in Miraflores, LimaPark in the evening and watch the street performers
  • Read the poetic quotes decorating the tile mosaics of Love Park
  • Go tandem paragliding off the cliffs of the Costa Verde, near Love Park.
  • Stop by Larcomar, the upscale mall and food court nestled into the seaside cliffs, even if for nothing more than the impressive views.
  • Shop for souvenirs from all of the regions of Peru at the artisanal markets on Av Petit Thouars and Ricardo Palma. The Inka Plaza or Indian Market are the largest. (See our last post for more details!)

A Surf Lesson in Miraflores, LimaBesides a nearby market for those of you who prefer to cook (yes, there’s a guest kitchen in the hostel), there are plenty of dining options in the area. If you’re looking for a cheap, filling, and tasty set lunch menu, try Los Yutes on Arica. For fast food, pick up a burger at the Peruvian chain Bembos (there’s also a MacDonald’s, if you must). If you’re only going to splash out for one big meal, make it ceviche, Lima’s banner dish. Although there a lots of cevicherias in the area, think about La Red Miraflores, which has made quite a reputation for itself not just for its ceviche but also for its grilled octopus. The only real food requirement? While near Larcomar, do not miss Manolo’s across the street- trying one of the chocolate- (or manjar- or pastry cream-) filled churros is a must!

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Shopping for Souvenirs in Lima

Shopping for Souvenirs in Lima

Trying on alpaca hats in Peru

Many travelers realize on their final days in Peru that they want to pick up some souvenirs, or else they wait until the final days of their trip in order to avoid lugging around the extra weight. This usually means shopping in Lima, the most common exit point for air travelers. Luckily, in Lima you can find diverse artisan goods from all regions of the country. Markets and shops hawk goods that run the gamut from mass produced souvenir kitsch to true representations of Peruvian craftsmanship.

Looking at alpaca goods in PeruThe best places to shop are Miraflores, Barranco, and the historic city center. You can generally pay in either Peruvian soles or American dollars, and some places even accept credit cards. Be careful to only accept pristine dollar bills if you plan on using them in Peru (if there are any nicks or tears, or even excessive folds, almost all stores and banks will not accept them) and learn to spot counterfeit bills. Finally, no matter where you go, make sure to barter!

What should you bring back with you? Alpaca goods are by far the most popular, as are other handwoven items. Try to get educated before purchasing, however- stop in an expensive gallery store and feel the goods to learn what Baby Alpaca (from the first shearing) and Alpaca should feel like. Most cheaper places will sell alpaca mixed with wool and even acrylic, so it helps to get a feel for them at a quality store first before braving the markets. When it comes to jewelry, silver is king in Peru, although seed jewelry from the jungle is a traditional choice as well. Pisco, a Peruvian grape brandy, carved and painted gourds, and Andean flutes are also popular. Some of the repeated motifs that you’ll see on all products are the Tumi, a ceremonial knife, the Chakana, known as an Andean cross, and the Inca calendar.

The artisan markets of Miraflores and San Flea Market at Kennedy Park in MirafloresMiguel boast hundreds of small stores. There, you’ll find all of the staples: silverwork, alpaca goods, pottery, paintings, carvings, T-Shirts and clothing, etc. Although Larcomar is the neighborhood’s most well-known shopping center, these are for brand-name clothing and other luxury goods- it’s not the place to go for handicrafts and other souvenirs. The largest markets are the Inka Plaza and the Indian Market, so stop by those if you’re looking to do all of your shopping in just one go. To reach the markets, head to the corner of Av Petit Thouars and Av Ricardo Palma; along blocks 52 through 55 on Av Petit Thouars, you’ll find Artesanías Miraflores, Kaypi Artesanías, Gran Chimu Handicraft Market, Artesanía Señor de Sipan, Gran Chavin, the Cuzco Market, La Portada del Sol and the Inka Market. Another option would be to stop by the flea market and handicraft fair that pops up in Parque Kennedy.

Wearing a Peruvian Chullo HatShopping for textiles in PeruShpping for souvenirs in Peru

Outside of Miraflores, in Pueblo Libre, there are a number of less-touristy and cheaper, but less conveniently located, artisan markets along Av. La Marina. The biggest are the Tesoros del Inka Market (block 7) and the Gran Mercado Inka (block 8). There are more options as well if you continue along Av. Sucre.

Unfortunately, shipping from Peru can be a little expensive, so you’re better off leaving room in your bag. Happy shopping!

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Peru Travel, Pt 1: What to Eat in Peru

Peru Travel, Pt 1: What to Eat in Peru

Cuy ChactadoFood is our common ground, a universal experience. – James Beard

One of the best ways to get to know the country you are visiting in is to indulge in the food- in the restaurants, in the streets, in family homes. In Peru, there’s no scarcity of food to explore. It’s diverse landscape and rich cultural history has given it a broad cuisine boasting Andean, Amazonian, Asian, and European influences.

Ceviche: Considered the nation’s banner dish,  it is a preparation of raw fish tossed in a spicy citrus marinade. (The acid in the fruit softens and slightly ‘cooks’ it.) It’s generally served with a soup (chilcano) and a drink (leche de tigre) made of the leftover marinade, and sweet potato or choclo, large Andean corn. A tasty Nikkei (Japanese Peruvian) variation is tiradito, which is like sashimi but served with a spicy sauce.

Where to Try It: Lima, Trujillo, and the other coastal cities. (Ceviche in the Andes is made of river fish, and the longer marinating time makes it a different dish altogether.)

Cuy: The large guinea pigs of the Andes are bred purely for food, and are in fact Peru’s most infamous traditional fare. Although it’s considered a delicacy worthy of holidays and other important celebrations, it is the most acquired taste of any of the dishes on our list. Most travelers who say it are surprised by the lack of meat, but locals enjoy this dish by eating all of its components and sucking the bones. It’s a gamey meat not unlike rabbit, but much depends on the preparation.

Where to Try It: In Cusco, cuy is eaten roasted whole, its intestines mixed with minty green huacatay. Though it boasts the most visually impressive preparation, and is the choice of hardcore travelers, it isn’t the tastiest…go easy on yourself by waiting until Arequipa and trying cuy chactado, which is flattened and fried. Or, the most squeamish might consider indulging in Lima’s high fusion cuisine, with cuy ravioli and other delicate presentations that anybody would love.

Causa: A layered casserole of mashed potatoes, avocado, tuna or meat, and hard-boiled egg. It can be slightly spicy depending on the preparation, but as it’s served cold it’s still refreshing.

Where to Try It: This dish is most associated with Lima.

Lomo Saltado: This stir-fried beef dish is a Chinese-Peruvian creation often mixed with fries and served with rice.

Where to Try It: The capital of Peru’s fusion cuisine is Lima.

Ají de Gallina: Shredded chicken or hen is bathed in a creamy yellow sauce of hot pepper, milk, cheese, and bread. The first meal I ate upon arriving in Cusco, and still a favorite. Don’t miss it.

Where to Try It: Ají de Gallina varies very little by city, and you’ll find it in all of Peru’s cities.

Anticuchos: Peruvian shish kebabs are prepared with a variety of meats, although beef heart is considered the most traditional and delectable. Beef, chicken, and sausage are often available, so it sometimes takes time to work up the courage to go for the heart, but the velvety texture of freshly prepared beef heart makes it worth it when you do.

Where to Try It: If you’re interested in sampling the street food, this is one of the safest options (as compared to fried foods, which can attract a lot of bacteria if they’re left to cool before consumption). You can find tasty anticuchos anywhere in Peru, although if you’re in the Ica region, the cradle of Afro-Peruvian culture that would be the most traditional choice.

Rocoto Relleno: Although it resembles a red bell pepper, the pepper used in rocoto relleno is spicy. After being boiled to tame its heat, it’s stuffed with ground beef and egg, then topped with cheese and backed.

Where to Try It: The best place to try it is Arequipa

Alpaca: The meat of this South American camelid is leaner and gamier than beef, somewhat like buffalo.

Where to Try It: Although Lima and Cusco have delectable options as well, Arequipa has some of the country’s most renowned alpaca restaurants.

Pollo a la Brasa: Roast chicken may not seem foreign enough to make it onto your travel food wishlist, but the marinade used before the meat is put on the spit gives Peruvian Pollo a la Brasa a distinct smoky flavor.

Where to Try It: Alongside Peruvian Chinese joints (Chifas), pollerías are among the most ubiquitous restaurants. Try it anywhere (although Cusco’s is quite nice).

Juanes: This spiced rice and chicken package is steamed in a bijao leaf. Although chicken is the most common, you can also find fish or yuca versions. The name is derived from John the Baptist (patron saint of the Peruvian Amazon), and the round bundle on a plate supposedly refers to the saint’s untimely end.

Where to Try It: Make sure to try this emblematic dish if you’re passing through the cities of the Peruvian Amazon: Iquitos, Tarapoto, or Puerto Maldonado.

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10 Ways to Celebrate the Fiestas Patrias of Peru in Lima

10 Ways to Celebrate the Fiestas Patrias of Peru in Lima

Each July 28th, Peru celebrates the anniversary Jose de San Martín’s proclamation of independence in Lima’s Plaza de Armas, and on the 29th, honors its Armed Forces and National Police. It’s one of the year’s most important holidays, with many workers taking advantage of the long weekend to travel. Others enjoy the parades, music, food and dances to be had in their own cities. If you’re traveling during the days surrounding Fiestas Patrias, be aware that some shops and banks will only open for half a day or not at all. Buses and flights continue, but the increased demand due to the long weekend means higher prices and less availability.

In Lima, the first day begins with a 21-cannon salute and the raising of the flag, a Te Deum at the Lima Cathedral, and the president’s address to congress regarding the state of the nation. The following day is the Great Military Parade and, during election years, the new president is sworn in.

The first thing you’ll notice are the red and white flags fluttering festively along the city streets, and a party atmosphere throughout. Get into the spirit by donning your Peruvian flag, sinking your teeth into traditional treats, and raising a glass of the national liquor, pisco. Or better yet, check out our list of 10 ways to celebrate Fiestas Patrias in Lima:

10. Attend the Serenade in Parque de la Muralla (Free- July 27th)

On the eve of Independence Day, Lima sponsors a serenade known as Lima Salutes the Nation. Expect to see Afro-Peruvian Creole Music, Folkloric Bands, Marinera Dancers, and modern rock groups as well. It ends with a short fireworks display.

9. Watch the Fireworks (Free- July 27th)

Although the informal, not-quite-legal fireworks will begin exploding sporadically beforehand, the official show begins at midnight. You’ll be able to appreciate the show from the Plaza de Armas (Lima’s main square) and the surrounding streets.

8. Watch the Magical Water Circuit at Reserve Park’s “3D Spectacular” (4 Soles- July 27th)

In honor of Fiestas Patrias, the fountain park known as the Magical Water Circuit puts on a show of lights, music, and 3D footage of Lima’s Municipal Ballet, folkloric dances from around Peru, and other cultural standards. The park hands out the glasses and projects the show on the large Fantasia Fountain. Each show lasts 20 minutes and will run continuously throughout the long weekend, from 8:15pm to 9:15pm. You can also explore the rest of the park’s fountains and enjoy musical bands and traditional food.

7. Drink Pisco From the Central Fountain (Free- July 28th)

Lima celebrates Pisco Day on the 4th Sunday of July….this year, it falls on the same day as Fiestas Patrias! Most bars will offer specials on this day, but you can enjoy a free taste in the Plaza de Armas, where 2,000 liters of Pisco replace the water that normally runs through the historic fountain. This is generally accompanied by a Peruvian Paso Horse show and musical bands, but since it falls on the same day as Independence Day this year, expect a different- and better!- show.

 

6. Watch the Gran Corso (Free- Date To Be Announced)

serenata-de-lima-7The colorful floats, long dragons, costumed performers, and bands of the Gran Corso (Great Parade) stretch several blocks and snakes through downtown Lima, around Parque Kennedy in Miraflores, and into Barranco. Stake out a spot in Parque Kennedy to watch the parade, or walk down 28 de Julio Avenue in central Lima to see the floats lined up before parading. Miraflores’ neighboring barrio to the south, Barranco, has the least crowds, so for better visibility and photos, try watching from there.

The date varies throughout the week and hasn’t been anounced yet (last year it took place on Sun July 22nd), so you’ll need to ask; remember that many people will refer to it as the Corso de Wong, after the supermarket sponsor. It’s worth tracking down though- it’s the best parade of the Fiestas (as the military parade can be a bit…sober).

5. Sample Anticuchos & Other Traditional Foods (3-15 Soles, All Week)

Fiestas_Patrias_Lima_6Anticucho means cut stew meat in Cusco, and while you’ll find chicken, beef, sausage, and intestine, the most traditional choice is beef heart. During Inca times, the dish was prepared with llama, but the Afro-Peruvian population redefined it using the organ meats available to slaves during the colonial period. It can be intimidating to try, but they’re delicious and a great way to get into the Peruvian spirit. More anticuchos are consumed in July than during any other part of the year! You’ll find many vendors hawking them streetside.

In addition, Lima hosts a national food fair all throughout the week of Independence day, allowing you to sample goodies from the desert coast, the Andean range, and the Amazon jungle all in one place.

4. Toast with Pisco Sours or Ponche de los Libertadores

Peru’s national drink is the Pisco Sour, although another solid toasting choice is Liberator´s Punch, with which Congress has been toasting independence ever since the Lima City Council set the tradition during the first swearing of independence.

3. Visit Kennedy Park to View the Exhibitions (Free- All Week)

Visit the always-lively Kennedy Park, which will fill up with vendors and special exhibits celebrating Peruvian heritage.

2. Take Advantage of Free Offers (Prices & Dates Vary)

Museums generally offer free or discounted admission on the days of the long weekend surrounding the holiday, so make sure to check what’s on offer!

1. Watch Marinera Dances and Peruvian Paso Horses at Hacienda Mamacona

Lima’s Hacienda Mamacona (actually located a little outside of the city, but offering buses to the locale) offers a Peruvian Paso horse show along with folk dances and Peruvian food. Last year, it took place on July 29th. It’s a scenic locale steeped in Peruvian traditions, so if you’ve got a little more to spend, pay them a visit. Just look up videos and illustrated brochures of the event, and call if you’d like to reserve.

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