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Where to Stay & What to Do in Miraflores, Lima

Where to Stay & What to Do in Miraflores, Lima

Reception at Pirwa Inclan B&B in Miraflores, LimaPirwa Inclan B&B is enviably located in Miraflores, often referred to as the “greenest” area in Lima thanks to its plethora of parks and gardens. It’s just a few blocks from Kennedy Park, which in the evenings comes alive with street performers, a market, and young Peruvians heading to its restaurants and clubs.

All of the hostel’s rooms have private bathrooms, whether it’s a private room or the economical six-person shared dormitory. Reception is open 24 hours a day, and there’s a Pirwa Travel desk where you can get detailed answers to your travel questions or arrange transport, guided excursions, or more. When you feel like staying in and relaxing, there’s a foosball table and other games in the TV lounge as well as a terrace with bar.

When you stay in the heart of Miraflores, there are lots of things to do in the area, which is why it’s the most frequently recommended base for visitors to Lima. Some of our suggestions:

  • Sample the nightlife around Calle Paragliding off the Costa Verde in Miraflores, Limade las Pizzas in Kennedy Park
  • Take a surfing lesson on one of the four popular surfing beaches along Miraflores’ Costa Verde: Redondo, Makaha, Waikiki, and La Pampilla. Ask the receptionist to set one up for you!
  • Visit the pre-Incan Huaca Pucllana shrine, an adobe temple from 500AD, open from 9am to 4:30pm every day but Tuesday, it’s closed in the evenings but attractively lit, and only a few blocks from the hostel.
  • Browse the popup market at KennedyVisiting Huaca Pucllana Shrine in Miraflores, LimaPark in the evening and watch the street performers
  • Read the poetic quotes decorating the tile mosaics of Love Park
  • Go tandem paragliding off the cliffs of the Costa Verde, near Love Park.
  • Stop by Larcomar, the upscale mall and food court nestled into the seaside cliffs, even if for nothing more than the impressive views.
  • Shop for souvenirs from all of the regions of Peru at the artisanal markets on Av Petit Thouars and Ricardo Palma. The Inka Plaza or Indian Market are the largest. (See our last post for more details!)

A Surf Lesson in Miraflores, LimaBesides a nearby market for those of you who prefer to cook (yes, there’s a guest kitchen in the hostel), there are plenty of dining options in the area. If you’re looking for a cheap, filling, and tasty set lunch menu, try Los Yutes on Arica. For fast food, pick up a burger at the Peruvian chain Bembos (there’s also a MacDonald’s, if you must). If you’re only going to splash out for one big meal, make it ceviche, Lima’s banner dish. Although there a lots of cevicherias in the area, think about La Red Miraflores, which has made quite a reputation for itself not just for its ceviche but also for its grilled octopus. The only real food requirement? While near Larcomar, do not miss Manolo’s across the street- trying one of the chocolate- (or manjar- or pastry cream-) filled churros is a must!

Shopping for Souvenirs in Lima

Shopping for Souvenirs in Lima

Trying on alpaca hats in Peru

Many travelers realize on their final days in Peru that they want to pick up some souvenirs, or else they wait until the final days of their trip in order to avoid lugging around the extra weight. This usually means shopping in Lima, the most common exit point for air travelers. Luckily, in Lima you can find diverse artisan goods from all regions of the country. Markets and shops hawk goods that run the gamut from mass produced souvenir kitsch to true representations of Peruvian craftsmanship.

Looking at alpaca goods in PeruThe best places to shop are Miraflores, Barranco, and the historic city center. You can generally pay in either Peruvian soles or American dollars, and some places even accept credit cards. Be careful to only accept pristine dollar bills if you plan on using them in Peru (if there are any nicks or tears, or even excessive folds, almost all stores and banks will not accept them) and learn to spot counterfeit bills. Finally, no matter where you go, make sure to barter!

What should you bring back with you? Alpaca goods are by far the most popular, as are other handwoven items. Try to get educated before purchasing, however- stop in an expensive gallery store and feel the goods to learn what Baby Alpaca (from the first shearing) and Alpaca should feel like. Most cheaper places will sell alpaca mixed with wool and even acrylic, so it helps to get a feel for them at a quality store first before braving the markets. When it comes to jewelry, silver is king in Peru, although seed jewelry from the jungle is a traditional choice as well. Pisco, a Peruvian grape brandy, carved and painted gourds, and Andean flutes are also popular. Some of the repeated motifs that you’ll see on all products are the Tumi, a ceremonial knife, the Chakana, known as an Andean cross, and the Inca calendar.

The artisan markets of Miraflores and San Flea Market at Kennedy Park in MirafloresMiguel boast hundreds of small stores. There, you’ll find all of the staples: silverwork, alpaca goods, pottery, paintings, carvings, T-Shirts and clothing, etc. Although Larcomar is the neighborhood’s most well-known shopping center, these are for brand-name clothing and other luxury goods- it’s not the place to go for handicrafts and other souvenirs. The largest markets are the Inka Plaza and the Indian Market, so stop by those if you’re looking to do all of your shopping in just one go. To reach the markets, head to the corner of Av Petit Thouars and Av Ricardo Palma; along blocks 52 through 55 on Av Petit Thouars, you’ll find Artesanías Miraflores, Kaypi Artesanías, Gran Chimu Handicraft Market, Artesanía Señor de Sipan, Gran Chavin, the Cuzco Market, La Portada del Sol and the Inka Market. Another option would be to stop by the flea market and handicraft fair that pops up in Parque Kennedy.

Wearing a Peruvian Chullo HatShopping for textiles in PeruShpping for souvenirs in Peru

Outside of Miraflores, in Pueblo Libre, there are a number of less-touristy and cheaper, but less conveniently located, artisan markets along Av. La Marina. The biggest are the Tesoros del Inka Market (block 7) and the Gran Mercado Inka (block 8). There are more options as well if you continue along Av. Sucre.

Unfortunately, shipping from Peru can be a little expensive, so you’re better off leaving room in your bag. Happy shopping!

Your Must-Do List for Puno Peru

Your Must-Do List for Puno Peru

Dancing on Amantani Island in traditional dressMany travelers pass through Puno to visit the islands of Lake Titicaca or to cross into Peru or Bolivia in the most economical way possible. The city, its outskirts, and the lake are worth stopping to explore, however. In honor of all that little Puno has to offer, here are our suggestions for how to spend your time in Puno, ranked in no particular order:

  • Hike to one of Amantani Island’s two hilltop temples, Pachatata (Father Earth) or Pachamama (Mother Earth). It takes about two hours.
  • Climb the 600 stairs to Condor Hill lookout (Kuntur Wasi) for the most impressive view overlooking the city and the lake. There are benches to rest along the way, but it’s also accessible by car.

Final steps up to Condor HillSign at Condor Hill in Puno, PeruView of Puno and Lake Titicaca

  • Ride in a traditional totora reed boat. You can arrange a short ride from the Floating Islands of Uros.
  • Visit the free Yaraví Ship Museum Totora reed boat at the Floating Islands of Uros near Puno, Peruat Puno’s port. It’s housed in the world’s oldest single-propeller iron ship, which was carried on mule-back through the Andes in the 1800s.
  • Walk along the lakeside walkway, the Malecón Ecoturístico Bahía de los Incas, marked by stunning lake views and pre-Incan sukankas.
  • Don the traditional dress of Amantani Island and take part in a local dance while staying with a family for the night.
  • Tour the Sillustani Chullpas, pre-Incan burial towers 45 minutes outside of Puno, overlooking Lake Umayo.

Diablada dance devils at the Candelaria Festival in Puno, PeruTraditionally costumed dancer at the Candelaria Festival in Puno, Peru

  • Sample some traditional local meals. Aside from freshly caught trout from Lake Titicaca, there are a number of options At the Sillustani Chullpas on the outskirts of Puno, Peruto seek out, including a quinoa fish stew known as chupe de quinua, a pig’s head soup called huarjata, a humble tuber and meat soup called chairo, breaded and fried chicharron de alpaca.
  • See the mummies and gold of the Sillustani Burial Towers exhibit at the Carlos Dreyer Museum in the main square.
  • Stop at the café and bar at the 17th century Corregidor’s House in the mainsquare, a popular gathering place for local artists and expats.
  • If possible, go during the last week of January and first couple of days of February to enjoy one of South America’s most spectacular Entrance to Pirwa Puno Hostel festivals, the Virgen de la Candelaria Festival.

If you need any assistance with guided excursions, bus transport, or any other aspect of your trip, feel free to contact the experienced specialists of Pirwa Travel, who have been providing travel services throughout Peru for ten years.

It’s no secret that when it comes to where to stay, we think that Pirwa Puno Hostel is the best choice for budget-conscious travelers! We’re located just a couple of blocks from the city’s main square, and a 15 minute walk from the port of Puno.

 

Peru Travel: Into the Depths of Colca Canyon

Peru Travel: Into the Depths of Colca Canyon

On the San Juan de Chuccho Trail in Colca Canyon, Arequipa

Arequipa boasts many attractions, from the intricate mestizo-baroque colonial buildings of volcanic sillar in the historic center to the volcanoes and fertile valleys of its countryside. Nearby, one finds the two deepest canyons in the world, Cotahuasi Canyon and Colca Canyon. Although the former is actually deeper, Colca Canyon is most popular, mainly due to its impressive condor colonies.

8732773729_e0c69cecdc_bIf you are considering trekking Colca Canyon, consider the San Juan de Chuccha Route, which can be done in 2 or 3 days. Whether you choose a 2-day or a 3-day trek along this route, you will need to depart Arequipa quite early, at around 3:30am, to depart for Colca Canyon. There is always a stop in the canyon town of Chivay for breakfast before continuing on to Condor’s Cross lookout, the most famous spot in the canyon. There, you can watch as the world’s largest birds of flight, the endangered Andean Condor, ascend from their colony deep below the lookout in search for food. Riding the rising thermals as the sun heats the canyon, they can appear sometimes to be suspended in the air, casting huge shadows on the canyon walls. It’s also a good spot from which to admire the profundity of the world’s second largest canyon.6934264744_41c4f7a882_o

The trek begins from San Miguel Pampas in the town of Cabanaconde. Over the initial 3½ hour descent, you’ll learn about the canyon’s indigenous plants upon which locals rely for medicinal and other uses. These include muña, cactus fruit, Andean corn, squashes, and jatupa. The canyon also boasts fruits like lúcuma,  peaches, apples, papaya, squash, lúcuma, mango, and figs.

After a rest at the Colca River, the force which formed the canyon, one crosses the first hanging bridge to arrive at the tiny and enchanting canyon town of San Juan de Chuccho, located on the north side of the river and marked by trees with fruit, flowers, and lichen. After lunch and a rest, those on 2-day treks continue on, visiting the towns of Malata and Cosñirhua en route to  Sangalle Oasis. (Those on 3-day treks spend the night in San Juan de Chuccho.

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Although the canyon’s crops flourish during the December to March wet season, during much of the year parts of the canyon become quite barren- except for the Oasis, where hot temperatures and water from a geothermal spring keep the area lush year-round. There, you can enjoy the palm-lined pools of the Oasis and spend the night in adobe bungalows representative of the zone.

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It’s best to begin the following day’s ascent very early- not because it takes much time, but because it is more comfortable to do the climb before the sun becomes strong. It may take as much as 3½ hours to reach the top. After breakfast in Cabanaconde, you can give your legs a break and catch the private bus to Chivay, stopping along the way at the town of Maca and at various natural lookouts boasting privileged views of the canyon’s depth and the pre-Incan terraces of the valley.

At Chivay, one can visit the nearby Las Llamas in ChivayCaleras hotsprings and have lunch before beginning the return trip to Arequipa. Along the way, you can stop at the Lookout of the Andes, which offers panoramic views of the Chila range and Ampato, Sabancaya, and Hualca Hualca Volcanoes. We’ll also stop at Aguada Blanca National Reserve, which is most known for its grazing herds of vicuña, the rarer and more elegant cousin of the alpaca and the llama. Then, it’s back to the White City of Arequipa to explore all that it has to offer.

High Thrills Fun at Huacachina, a Real Desert Oasis in Peru

High Thrills Fun at Huacachina, a Real Desert Oasis in Peru

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Near the city of Ica, one finds a small village oasis known as Huacachina. Although its permanent population is small, it’s become a tiny resort town for nearby families, who visit to go Huacachina_10to the restaurants and resorts and paddle-boat around the lagoon, and for foreign tourists who visit to go sandboarding or take dune buggy rides down its surrounding dunes.

You can arrange a combination dune buggy / sandboarding tour from Ica city. The dune buggies are small, but can go quite fast, which combined with the rough terrain can mean some thrilling dune jumping! The cheapest option is to go with a group of other travelers in an 8-person dune buggy. Obviously, the more people in the group, the lower the price is.

Afterwards, one visits the dunes surrounding Huacachina, which are very large- some can take an hour to climb on foot! You get a quick lesson on sandboarding safety and techniques and can practice on smaller dunes before jumping off some of the large ones.

Most dune buggy tours last two to three hours, including an hour of sandboarding. If you can, think about choosing a late-afternoon tour, which starts around 4pm, so that you can still enjoy incredible views but are not struggling under the scorching desert sun. As an added benefit, some drivers will take you to one of the landscape’s natural lookouts to watch the sun set over the desert.

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If you’d rather not take a tour, grab a taxi and rent a board off the street for a few soles (probably leaving some kind of guarantee). You can take a taxi from Ica to Huacachina Huacachina_30for S/4 to 5 (soles). Be warned, however, that you’ll be missing what most travelers recount as the highlight of the trip to Ica/Huacachina- the dune buggy.

The town itself has little more than the    surrounding desert and striking tranquil views to recommend it, because food and product prices are higher than in Ica. Also, there is only one ATM in town, at Huacachinero hostal, and it’s unreliable, so think about just bringing water, snacks, and emergency cash from Ica. Huacachina is best for a short visit, some stunning photo opportunities, and a real “desert oasis” experience; it really isn’t large enough for you to plan more than a quick daytrip.

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