A Noble Competition

In the days of the Inca Empire, the festival of Warachikuy was rite of passage for youths of the nobility, in which they became men and their future was determined. Those who performed best in rigorous tests of skill and valor would find themselves well-ranked for military or civil service, inducted into the hierarchy or excluded from it, deemed apt for war, the administration of the Tahuantinsuyu Empire, and marriage. It would occur at regular intervals or when the need arose. Warachikuy was often included within the celebrations of Qhapac Raymi, a festival as associated with the summer solstice as Inti Raymi with the winter solstice. It was begun by the children of the Inca, who wished to be known and respected throughout the Empire as able warriors. Warachikuy, comes from wara, loincloths or shorts awarded only to those deemed worthy to don them, part of the system of insignias, honors, and rank which would be recognized then and after, in peace and war. The festival allows for valuable insight into the training and preparation of Inca leaders, which was based on physical and mental aptitude as much as pedigree, as even the children of the Inca empire were submitted to such tests.

A Modern Spectacle

Today it is still an important festival of national identity, but the modern interpretation resembles more a youthful and local Olympic Games for those finishing their schooling and about to enter society as adults- although its cultural and historical significance has not been lost. You can watch its reenactment on the Esplanade of Sacsayhuaman Fortress overlooking Cusco, on the 3^rd Sunday of September. Some 1,500 participate. Emblematic of Inca glory, the continuance of Warachikuy is intended to inspire local youth to value and love an Andean cultural heritage and identity which has at times been spurned.

Pirwa Hostels and B&Bs has 4 different locals near the Plaza de Armas in Cusco, so if you´re planning a trip to the Imperial City in September make yourself comfortable without busting your budget- we offer comfy beds, 24hr hot water, self-catering kitchens, cable TV, and more in either private rooms or dormitory accomodations, always at modest prices. The 3rd Sunday is the 18th of September, when you can grab a spot (perch on a rock) in nearby Sacsayhuamán on the city´s outskirts and catch the action!

The Event

Sacsayhuaman prepares for the arrival of the youth with a gala of colorful folkloric dances.

Brilliantly attired Inca armies from 4 barracks, each representing a suyu (corner) of the Empire, arrive at Sacsayhuamán chaning “Haylli!”- triumph. Antisuyu arrives from the National College of Sciences in Plaza San Francisco, Kontisuyu from the Plaza de Armas, Chinchaysuyu from the Sun Temple of Qorikancha, and Qollasuyu from Plaza Rimaqpampa. In Sacsayhuamán, an Inca official convenes the armies, who enter to the music of Andean wind instruments waving brilliant banners, while flags of Tahuantinsuyu flutter overhead in the 500 watchtowers. Pichaqkunas, those charged with sweeping impurities from and strewing flowers over the path of the Inca, are followed by the officials of the Inca court and the royal family, culminating with the arrival of the Inca in his litter.

The Inca proceeds with the Sun Greeting Ritual and leads the populace in the Sun Hymn, followed by the Rite of Chicha (a fermented corn drink), the fire rite, and a rite during which a herd of black llamas´ ears are pierced and ornamented with woven ribbons in the 7 colors of Tahuantinsuyu.

Throughout the event Tests of Skill are interspersed with War Dances:

• Speed:          marathon encircling Cusco and Sacsayhuamán obstacle course
• Strength:     tug of war over a line of fire
• Resistance: suspends competitors from a height for battle, with the losers falling
• Skill:            acrobatics within circles of fire
• Risk:            crossing chords over a fire
• Aim:            bow and arrow and lance competitions
• Valor:          ascent of hanging bridges

The war dances include the Amaru (Snake) Dance, performed with the Muru Urkuque, the woven rope from the Temple of the Sun, the Kuntur (Condor) Dance of the Kuntisuyus, K´achampa dance of the Qollasuyus (characterized by the yawar mayu or the river of blood to demonstrate virility and valor), the costumed Puma Dance of the Chinchaysuyus, and the Q’ara Ch’uncho of the Antisuyus.

Mock Battle

The main events are the Taqanakuy, when Hanan Qosqo and Hurin Qosqo warriors face off in hand to hand combat, and the Inka paq’areq ritual battle, which will continue until the Inca declares peace. Only after this final battle will the youth undergo graduation, with the victors receiving champis and waras from the Inca himself. Sacsayhuaman will then explode into jubilation as the armies retire to the sounds of flutes and whistles and the yell of

“Haylli mosoq inkakuna… qochorikuychis!”

–“Young Incas… Enjoy your triumphs!”

Just four blocks up from the Plaza de Armas you`ll find one the most famous neighborhood in Cusco, picturesque Barrio San Blas, often referred to as the Artists´ District. Often a highlight for travelers, its narrow and steep cobblestone streets are lined with colonial buildings with distinctive blue balconies. It is most known for its plethora of art galleries and shops and the workshops of renowned local artists and artisans such as the Mendívil family, known for their long-necked archangels.

San Blas is worth exploring for its quality restaurants and cafes, Saturday art fairs in the Plaza San Blas, great views overlooking the city of Cusco, and the overwhelming artistry of the pulpit in the Church of San Blas. Get there from the Plaza de Armas by following Calle Triunfo, passing the Inca Wall of Hatun Rumiyoc with its famous 12-sided stone- it´ll take just five minutes to arrive.

San Blas during the Inca Empire

In the time of the Inca Empire San Blas was T’oqo-kachi (Salt Hollow). The hill was marked by terraces with fertile crops, irrigation canals, freshwater and saltwater waterfalls, salt-gathering pits, and shrines. It was mainly inhabited by the Quechua nobility and the mitimaes, groups of pilgrim artisans who traveled to the center of the empire in order to teach their local techniques and learn others.

The Oldest Parish Church in Cusco

The 16^th century Church of San Blas, the oldest parish church in Cusco, was built over an Inca Shrine to Illapa, the god of thunder and lightning. During its construction the mummy of Inca Pachacutec was unearthed, with a hole in its head perhaps providing cause of death, by Polo Ondegardo, who sent his discovery to Lima. After the 1650 and 1950 earthquakes the simple mud brick structure, typical of Indian parish churches during the viceroyalty, was reinforced with stone walls and the bell tower rebuilt in stone. Although the modest exterior is free of ornamentation, inside, the single aisle leads to a shockingly ornate churrigueresque masterwork. The pulpit of San Blas is one of the most treasured pieces of colonial art on the continent, its intricate filigree carved from a single cedar trunk. The skull resting at the feet of Saint Paul is said to belong to the unknown indigenous master who produced the carving.

(Mon-Sat 8am-6pm/ Sundays and holidays 10am – 6pm)

Where to Stay in San Blas

Let the friendly staff of cozy and relaxed Pirwa Backpackers Familiar Hostel, on Carmen Alto Street in San Blas, welcome you to the Imperial City of Cusco.  The hostel offers private rooms or dorm accommodations, always with comfy beds and access to 24hr hot showers. A continental breakfast, self-serve mate de coca to ward off altitude sickness, and free Wi-Fi and internet access are all included in Pirwa´s low prices.

Before heading out, swing past the Pirwa Travel counter for tour or travel assistance or tourist information. The staff is always ready to recommend must-see sights for the daytime and good restaurants and bars for the night. You won`t have to worry about your belongings while you´re exploring Cusco and its surroundings, thanks to the security lockers, free baggage storage, and 24hr reception.

If you feel like staying in, perhaps recovering from the Inca trail or other treks, grab a hammock and relax in the sunshine in the patio, or you can whip up a snack in the self-catering kitchen and watch a movie in the lounge.

Pirwa anticipates your needs to make sure your stay in Cusco is a pleasant one. If you´re looking for comfort, security, and community at low prices, give Pirwa Backpackers Familiar Hostel in San Blas a try.

 

Inca Treasures Return Home

On August 10^th, the Casa Concha in Cusco inaugurated a display of more than 360 artifacts from Machu Picchu for two weeks only. The artifacts in question have special significance for Peruvians because they´ve been in the possession of Yale University for almost a century, ever since Hiram Bingham excavated them and exported them for study in 1912 through 1916. An agreement was reached for the return of the objects after years of legal and political wrangling. These are part of the first shipments of objects to be repatriated, from a total 46,635 fragments and artifacts (the remainder is expected by December 2012). The exhibit displays ceramics, stone objects, metal items including jewelry and tumi ceremonial knives, and human bones. The expeditions in the high Andean Machu Picchu site even unearthed marine objects from the coastal region. ENTRY IS FREE for Cusqueños and tourists alike (ID required).

These artifacts originally arrived in Lima, where they were exhibited for a short period before coming to Cusco. Again, they were only displayed for a short time due to the lack of suitable museum equipment for preserving and exhibiting them. During that time notable figures such as Nobel Laureate Mario Vargas Llosa came to view the long-lost Inca treasures. This week´s inauguration was overseen by the Rector and the Deacon of the National University of San Antonio Abad of Cusco (UNSAAC), which operates Casa Concha and is building a new museum and research center for the artifacts, currently housed in two exhibition halls, with 2 patios reserved for local and foreign researchers.

Where is It?

The exhibition is housed on the 2^nd floor of Casa Concha on Santa Catalina Ancha Street, located just half a block from the Plaza de Armas. Pirwa Hostels and B&Bs has one local right on the Plaza de Armas, Pirwa Corregidor B&B, one local around the corner from the plaza, Pirwa Suecia B&B, and one in the smaller San Francisco Plaza next to the Plaza de Armas, Pirwa Colonial Backpackers Hostel. The photo at left shows the view of the plaza from the balcony of Pirwa Corregidor´s on-site eatery, Plus Restaurant. The church you see is the same in the background of the photo of the Casa Concha patio below, so you´ll find it easy to get there, and under ten minutes walking. As always, we pride ourselves on our central locations near the action!

The Casa Concha dates back to the 17^th and 18^th century and is one of the city´s clearest examples of mestizo architecture, marked by intricate colonial woodwork. It has more than 70 rooms and 4 patios in addition to the main patio shown at the right, with the churches of the Plaza de Armas in the background. It once served as the residence of Marquis Don José Santiago Concha and Salvatierra Márquez. Leading into the exhibition halls where the new exhibit is displayed are religious murals painted by the Dominicans. After more than 2 years of reconstruction and restoration it passed from the National Institute of Culture to the National University of San Antonio, the new overseer of both the Casa Concha and the Machu Picchu Yale artifacts, those which have already arrived and those which are anxiously expected.

Today is the principal day of celebrations related to the Machu Picchu Centennial, so let´s all wish Machu Picchu a Happy Hundred Year Anniversary!  Festivities are mostly centered in Machu Picchu and Cusco´s Main Square; you can check the program here.  Screens in Cusco´s Main Square will broadcast live the ceremony and musical acts at Machu Picchu, after which the party will continue with concerts and a “light and sound spectacular”.  Tomorrow there´s an all-day dance competition in Cusco´s Main Square as well as a Float Parade through the city´s principal streets.  Finally, on Saturday, international and Peruvian musicians will be performing in the beer garden.

Despite the fact that families were already living in Machu Picchu when he arrived, and other foreigners had beaten him there as well, for much of the world Machu Picchu came into being when Hiram Bingham stumbled across the great ruins of Machu Picchu in 1911.  Thus began a worldwide fascination with the purpose of its construction, the beauty of its walls, and the reason for its abandonment.  Hiram Bingham may not have “discovered” Machu Picchu in the strict sense of the word, but he introduced it to the world and perhaps even saved it by giving it a value beyond that which it had for its inhabitants, that of simple base materials for building and farming.  Today it´s considered a World Heritage Site and is often referred to as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

“In the variety of its charms and the power of its spell, I know of no place in the world which can compare with it. Not only has it great snow peaks looming above the clouds more than two miles overhead, gigantic precipices of many-colored granite rising sheer for thousands of feet above the foaming, glistening, roaring rapids; it has also, in striking contrast, orchids and tree ferns, the delectable beauty of luxurious vegetation, and the mysterious witchery of the jungle.”

– Hiram Bingham