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Fast Times in Lima Peru

Fast Times in Lima Peru

As evidenced by all the activities that the district’s been offering this week for World Tourism Week, Miraflores is the perfect base from which to explore the city of Lima. Many travelers just rush through en route to Cusco or Arequipa, but that means you’ll miss out on all of the mystery, fun, and beauty that the capital of Peru has to offer. From the green coastal cliffs of this desert region to the ancient pyramids against a backdrop of modern buildings, Lima is a city of contrasts and surprises.

To prove it, we’ve put together a sample itinerary for a day well-spent on pre-Inca temples, animals, green parks, paragliding, bike riding, and dancing. It all begins and end in the center of Miraflores, Kennedy Park, which is just a few blocks from Pirwa Inclan B&B and Pirwa Prada Backpackers (that’s cheery Prada to the right).

First up: the ancient coastal power center of Maranga, located inside…the Lima zoo. If you aren’t going to have time to visit all of the regions of Peru, you can still see the animals and plants from the desert coast to the high frigid Andes and the Amazon rainforest here, but the ruins are reason enough for a stop. After thousands of years of sleep and neglect, the temples of Lima are coming back to life, and anyone with a bit of Indiana Jones will enjoy stopping by some of these ancient settlements incongruously set amidst the trappings urban modernity of Lima.

Photos: Handicraft Fair & Playing in Kennedy Park in Miraflores, Lima.

To get there, you can take a bus on Larco, across from Parque Kennedy, getting off at Plaza San Miguel. Walk a few seconds in the same direction as the bus, right on La Marina onto Riva Arguero, and you’ll see an adobe pyramid and a sign directing you to the zoo. Marenga’s streets, homes, and fields have been long since destroyed, but the pyramidal temples and palaces, burial mounds, ancient walls and irrigation canals remain as a testament to the pre-Inca civilization known as the Ichma. (Although the area remained in use up to the arrival of the Spanish, so following civilizations used it as well.) The onsite museum shows the bright painting styles of the Ichma. The park has an enormous culinary zone where one can enjoy some of the most famous dishes of traditional Peruvian cuisine, so you might as well make a stop for lunch amongst picturesque surroundings.

Photos: The ancient huacas of Lima’s zoo.

You can get back to Miraflores the same way you came, ending up near Kennedy Park. What? You’re hungry already…you’re in luck, you’re close to Manolo’s (Av. Larco 608), the BEST churros in Lima! Stop by the store or one of their carts. Our recommendation are the chocolate-filled churros, alongside some espressos, mmmmm….

Photos: Sampling churros in Kennedy Park; Kennedy Park’s Painters’ Row

To continue sightseeing, think about exploring the Costa Verde, Miraflores’s green cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Along the way, you’ll run across some immediately identifiable Lima landmarks such as the Parque de Amor and Larcomar. Walking’s fine, but it’s easy and fun to rent a bicycle to do this well. The Pirwa staff can assist you with this if you need help. If you want to go all out, just a little further up from the Parque de Amor is the jump-off point for tandem paragliders!

Photos: Larcomar Mall & Food Court; Paragliding in Miraflores

If you have time to wander neighboring Barranco a bit, it’s easily the most beautiful district in Lima, with its traditional and colorful oceanside homes, almost as many parks as Miraflores, and a solid reputation as the Lima’s bohemian enclave. There are lots of galleries around if you’re interested.

Photos: Row of colorful colonial homes and mural in funky seaside Barranco.

Finally, while heading back, stop by the ancient temple of Huaca Pucllana in central Miraflores not far from the hostels. In pre-Columbian times, it was once home to the desert coast’s preeminent oracle. It’s nice to go by in the evenings because the pyramid is beautifully illuminated. However, if you want to go inside, hours are 9am-5pm Wednesday to Monday, with the last tour starting at 4:30pm.

Photos: Exploring Huaca Puccllana; Skeleton of sacrificed female unearthed at Puccllana.

If you plan on going out again in the nighttime to check out Lima’s nightlife, just walk a couple of blocks back to Kennedy Park. In the evening, it gains an almost festival-like atmosphere, because it’s ringed by restaurants, cafés, and clubs. Club and bar hoppers will often gather here, as well as street performers.

Photos: Live performers in Kennedy Park- street performers and live band.

The best part is that since Kennedy Park is so central, after a night of partying with locals and other travelers alike, you’ll still only be a few blocks from our Miraflores hostels, so you can crawl into one of the comfy beds before sunup and be ready to begin it all again the next day! Remember that the fun-loving Pirwa Lima team is already ready to help you out with sightseeing, transport, and nightlife recommendations, so just ask and we’ll be happy to help!

 

A Peru for Every Type of Backpacker, pt 2

A Peru for Every Type of Backpacker, pt 2

This is the culmination of our two-part article on the different types of backpackers and what Peru has to offer them. So far, we’ve dealt with the hiking and trekking enthusiasts, the extreme sport junkies, the eco-travelers, and the cultural immersionists. What’s left?…

Time Travelers

From the modern high rises of Miraflores, Lima and the pre-Columbian pyramid shrine in their midst to the traditional villages and towns of the Sacred Valley of the Incas, with vibrantly dressed locals chatting on cellphones and internet cafés housed in adobe structures lining cobblestone streets, Peru is a land of contrasts which in the throes of modernizations still offers up a past rich in mystery and wonder.

  • The world-famous mysterious Nazca Lines and the remarkable thousand year old mummies of Chauchillas
  • Kuelap, a fortress in northern Peru of the Chachapoyas, the most formidable foes of the Inca.
  • The Inca Fortress of Saqsayuhuamán on the outskirts of Cusco and the Lost City of Machu Picchu, the worldwide icon of the Inca Empire
  • the pre-Inca city of Caral north of Lima, the oldest city in the Americas, which as a flourishing urban center as far back as 2600BC

 

Culinary Crusaders

Whether or not you’re a foodie, chances are some fresh ceviche in Lima and roast guinea pig (cuy) in Cusco are on your travel to-do list, the former for the delicate flavors and the latter for the bragging rights. The culinary crusaders among you, hoever, probably have a list that’s more dishes than tourist attractions. What shouldn’t you miss?…

  • Marinated, grilled, and skewered beef hearts (anticuchos) in Ica, proud guardian of Afro-Peruvian cuisine
  • Pollo a la Brasa. Why eat roaster chicken in Peru when you’ve had it before? Because here, it tastes like nowhere else
  • Stir-fried tenderloin and fries known as lomo saltado
  • Seco de Cabrito, or stewed goat in the north
  • In the Andes, Olluquito con Charqui, is a firm potato-like tuber stewed with charqui (dried alpaca)
  • Even if you’re not ready to go as far as some toasted ants, the jungle region has some great dishes to offer, such as Juanes, bundles of chicken and rice cooked in banana leaves, and Inchicapi peanut stew.

Mystic Travelers

A new breed of traveler seeks not only cultural insight but mystical and personal insight as well. The survival of pre-Columbian beliefs in Peru, often in syncretic form, makes Andean or Amazonian Peru an attractive destination for such travelers. What kind of options does Peru offer the mystical backpacker?:

  • Ceremonies at the pre-Columbian sacred sites still believed to contain special energy by New Age practitioners
  • Spiritual cleansings with rubdowns with sacred plants and even with a guinea pig by Andean Curanderos, Healers
  • Hallucinogenic Ayahuasca ceremonies overseen by Amazonian shamans, which are thought to remove the curtain separating the natural and supernatural world, allow one to commune with universal spirits, and to heal problems with one’s own soul and psyche.
  • Very rarely, a traveler gets to visit the town of Queros, which thanks to a willful isolation is considered the town wherein Inca culture has continued unbroken.

Probably your interests fit into more than one category, and the gung-ho backpackers are likely a little bit of each…that just means you’ll have to plan a longer trip! The Pirwa Team includes not only Pirwa Travel Service, which can exist with transport, entrances, and guided excursions, but also Pirwa Hostels, which has 13 different locations throughout Peru and Bolivia. This means that no matter what your interests, and where you end up, you can probably find us nearby!

Stop by the social butterfly Pirwa Colonial Backpackers or the cozy and cheerful Pirwa San Blas Familiar in Cusco, enjoy breakfast on the sunny rooftop terrace at Pirwa Park Hostel Arequipa, or even cross the border and head out on the town with Pirwa La Paz‘s fun-loving team. A a country as varied as Peru, and such diverse groups of backpackers, require a home-grown chain that can offer all that the modern backpacker needs in terms of facilities, budget options, entertainment, and comfort. Check out all of our locations here …see you on the road!

A Peru for Every Type of Backpacker

A Peru for Every Type of Backpacker

To truly experience a country as culturally diverse, geologically varied, and historically rich as Peru, one would need much more time than the average backpacker. Regardless, those of us guided by wanderlust seek some insight, a window into the host country. We’ve compiled a two-part list of the attractions that Peru has to offer every type of traveler… What type of backpacker are you?

Conquering Geological Wonders

Peru’s distinct environmental regions provide excellent trekking options for both experienced hikers and casual trekkers alike. There are plenty of trails to choose from, including multi-day slogs and one-day walks. Some of the most popular treks include:

  • The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu and the alternative Lares Trek, actually favored by locals thanks to its superior sweeping views
  • Descend into the depths of the world’s deepest canyons, Cotahuasi Canyon and Colca Canyon, home of the endangered and massive Andean Condors
  • The Cordillera Huayhuash Blanca treks- considered among the best in the world

Thrill Seekers

From catching air to catching waves, there’s plenty in Peru to keep the most demanding thrill-seeker occupied.

  • Paragliding of the cliffs of Miraflores and over the Pacific Ocean
  • Rafting the rapids around Cusco, in the Canyons of Arequipa, and into the Amazon
  • Sandbuggy riding and Sandboarding down White Hill and the sand dunes surrounding Huacachina Oasis
  • Surfing some of the best waves in the world along the Peruvian Coast north of Lima
  • Scaling the rocks and ice of the Cordillera Blanca Range

Eco-Travelers

With a landscape boasting incredible range from the desert coast to snow-capped Andean peaks and down into the lush Amazon Basin, Peru has a number of astounding national parks, sanctuaries, and reserves which would delight any nature-lover and inspire everyone else to becoming nature-lovers:

  • Manú National Park in the Amazon Rainforest, one of the world’s most biologically diverse zones
  • Paracas National Reserve, off the Peruvian coast south of Lima, with its bustling penguin and sea lion colonies
  • Tingo Maria National Park in the Amazon with its cave-dwelling oil birds

Culturally Curious

To foreigners, it will appear that Peru’s year has as many festival days as non-festival days.

  • Candelaria in Puno, where you can experience the greatest number of folkloric dances, music, and costumes
  • Some popular celebrations such as Inti Raymi in Cusco on June 24th and Fiestas Patrias Independence Days in July, have festivities which last all month
  • Holy Week, or SemanaSanta, popularly and distinctly celebrated in Ayacucho
  • Festival of San Juan celebrated on  Amazon riversides.
Mistura 2012 is coming to Lima this September!

Mistura 2012 is coming to Lima this September!

Only a little more than a week until Mistura! It’ll run from Sept 7th-16th at the Campo de Marte. This is only its fifth year and already it’s grown into one of Lima’s biggest events of the year. There’ll be products from all the regions of Peru (jungle, Andes, and desert coast), with a special focus this year on Andean grains like cañihua, quinua and kiwicha. Pick up piscos, chocolates and other souvenirs, and sample creations by Peru’s best cooks and international chefs as well. There’ll be forums and contests from best bread and ceviche to best ají de gallina (try it!) and cow’s lung stew (Chanfainita– maybe try it?). Hundreds of thousands are expected to pass by its doors to enjoy drink, music, dance, revelry, and lots and lots of food from all over Peru! Pay less and avoid the lines- purchase your entrance (S/20) and prepaid cards in advance at Teleticket in Wong & Metro and Banco Continental locations, and recharge them throughout at automatic teller machines.

People are already talking about whose dishes can’t be missed:

  • Doña Julia’s Cancacho (brick oven lamb reared on the ichu grasses of Ayaviri)
  • Doña Delia Cahuana’s Anticuchos (shishkabobs- beef heart is the most traditional)
  • Doña Juliana Huayllani’s Tamales (Cusco-style tamales)
  • Mi Paulita’s Goat Stew with White Beans
  • El Pichito’s Inchicapi (ground peanut soup from the Amazon)

Where to Stay in Lima

Visit us at Pirwa Prada Backpackers, where our friendly staff is eager to help you with your trip and day plans. You can bunk up in a comfy bed in the shared dormitories for an option that won’t bust your budget. Not sure if shared dorms are your style? Pirwa Inclan B&B now has more married and twin double rooms with private baths! Cheerfully decorated with lots of space to relax from the Movie, TV and Game Lounge where you can challenge some friends to a game of billiards or foosball to outdoor terraces and a rooftop bar.

Both of our Lima hostels are located in Miraflores, the most-recommended area for travelers to Lima, and for good reason. It’s a relaxed, safe, and seaside district known for its quality restaurants, cafés, and shopping, and offers a lot of activity and sightseeing options. It’s a great spot for people-watching, from the surfers and sunbathers on the beach to the paragliders who leap from the ocean-side cliffs to circle over the Pacific to the musicians and performers who perform live in Kennedy Park.

Fun Things to do in Miraflores

  • Paraglide You’ll find the experts catching wind out on the cliffs of Miraflores every day the weather permits. It’s no problem if it’s your first time, as they’ll take you out on a tandem flight.
  • Get active! There are some great waves in Peru. Beginners can take some surfing lessons in Miraflores, and experienced surfers can head north of the city to find some of the best waves in the world. Surfboards and wetsuits are easily and cheaply available for rent. (Learn all about surfing in Peru in our previous post.) If surfing seems a bit intimidating, try joining a beach volleyball or soccer game- there are beachside soccer fields north of Miraflores, and it’s easy to hop in on games.
  • Climb Huaca Pucllana Incongruous for such a modern area, the ancient 5th century temple pyramid known as Huaca Puccllana stands in the center of Miraflores. Still under ongoing excavation, the site is open from 9am to 5pm, with guided tours of its structures and relics as well as an onsite restaurant. Stop by at night, when the temple is creatively illuminated, for some unique photos.

Seeking assistance or information about city attractions, guided excursions, transport, or other trip aspects? Stop by the Pirwa Travel information desk in any of our hostels, or contact them in advance at pirwatravel@gmail.com.

 

Pirwa Familiar in Bohemian San Blas

Pirwa Familiar in Bohemian San Blas

Scenic San Blas- Worth a Visit!

Only 4 blocks up from Cusco’s Main Square (the Plaza de Armas) you’ll find the city’s most unique neighborhood- scenic Barrio San Blas, the Artists’ District. This area has been the artists’ quarter since Inca times! Its thin cobblestone streets lined with artists’ workshops, galleries, and shops housed in colonial buildings with traditional blue balconies give this area a special charm.

 

How to Get There…

You can reach San Blas by foot from the Plaza de Armas by walking up Calle Triunfo, passing Inca wall known as Hatun Rumiyoc, with its famous 12-sided stone. It´ll take just a few minutes to arrive in San Blas.

 

Don’t Miss…:

  • Some of Cusco’s highest quality Restaurants and Cafes- save a spot on your list for Granja Heidi for a good lunch and Siete Angelitos for a live music hotspot!
  • Art fairs in the Plaza San Blas on Saturdays
  • The oldest church in Cusco- its modest exterior hides a colonial treasure, a churrigueresque pulpit intricately carved from a single cedar trunk. (The mysterious skull at the foot of Saint Paul is rumored to be of the anonymous indigenous master who produced the carving…)
  • The renowned Mendivil family’s workshop, with their famous long-necked angels

Your Home Away From Home in San Blas

You’ll find the friendly staff at Pirwa Backpackers Familiar eager to assist you in all aspects of your visit to Cusco.

The cozy, cheery hostel boasts an inner patio for relaxing in the sunshine, a roomy TV lounge, kitchen for your use and dining area, travel information counter, and more. There are private rooms and shared dormitories, all with comfortable beds.

The continental breakfast is included, as is self-serve mate de coca all day long to prevent altitude sickness, and free Wi-Fi and internet access.

It’s a homey refuge with low prices to boot, so if you´re looking for comfort, security, and community at low prices, visit us at Pirwa Backpackers Familiar Hostel in San Blas!