Colorful Carnaval in La Paz
Pirwa La Paz is going to be celebrating its very first Carnaval in La Paz this February! This is one of the largest events of La Paz’s year, with preparations beginning in advance. Thousands of dancers brighten the streets in their folkloric attire, while many revelers spray others with water, colored flours, confetti, and more! As in other South American countries, the Catholic pre-Lenten celebration of Carnaval in La Paz is fused with ancient customs and rites.
The Alasitas Market begins to pop up around January 24th and continues throughout the Carnaval season. These miniature products represent the desires of their buyers; you can find cars, houses, fake money and more. The name comes from the Aymara chalayasita, an exchange of products, and the products are offered to the idol of Ekeko, a local pre-Columbian deity of abundance.
Carnaval festivities begin in earnest on a 
Saturday with the Children’s Parade. The day after is the Sunday of the Farándula, the Spectacular, when dance troupes flood the streets and the principal character of La Paz’s Carnaval appears in abundance: the Pepino! With colorful costume and jangling bells, a mask, streamers and whistles, he plays pranks on the crowd, whom sprays with water, colored flour and confetti, hits with his “mother-in-law killer” club of cloth-covered sponge, inviting participants to dance. In fact, Carnaval is not considered truly begun until this day, when a pepino costume is unearthed in the General Cementery of La Paz.
The dance troupes are composed of workers from different unions. They dance the Diabladas costumed as devils and angels, Morenadas costumed as slaves, and other dances involving Spanish conquistador costumes, indigenous clothing, masks of all varieties and often literally with bells on. Others dance in the familiar costume of the Andean woman: long-sleeved blouses, skirts with petticoats (but much shorter than the norm!), boots, and the discordant but omnipresent bowler hats.
Monday of Carnaval is reserved for the contest of traditional orchestras and national dances. Known as the Jisk’a Anata (Aymara for Small Game; this was the name of the pre-Columbian festival commemorating the harvest season.); it is known as the Carnaval of Yesteryear because in dress and style it looks back to the Carnaval of the 40s. On this day indigenous dances are performed, mainly by the surrounding rural communities, as well as colonial era dances. The pre-Columbian dances include the Qhanchwiris, Sicuris, Khantus and Tarkeadas, dances to the rhythm of indigenous wind instruments such as quenas, tarkas and zampoñas or sikus, and wankas (tambores). Colonial-era dances include the Morenada, where dancers take the character of the arriving slaves, and Caporales, where they represent the slave and estate owners. Although their origins span a large period of time, these elaborately costumed dances are all intimate parts of the folklore of La Paz and Bolivia.
Tuesday is dedicated to the pre-Columbian Ch’alla ritual offering to Pachamama, the Earth Mother deity, in hope of good fortune for the year. Assets are blessed amidst the usual revelry of partying, firecrackers, streamers, and confetti. Sometime throughout the week the Carnaval Queen is chosen, it is she who obligates the Pepino to marry.
The Carnaval ends on the Sunday of Temptation the following week with the Ch’utas Festival, with tens of thousands of Chutas grouped into 19 troupes. The first troupe receives the coffin holding a doll dressed as the Pepino, who will be carried on their shoulders to the General Cementery and buried anew.
The traditional music of La Paz carnaval, combines the Ch’uta’s Dance or Huayño Suave with Estudiantinas and Tarqueadas.
Tips for Enjoying the La Paz Carnaval!
- The best vantage points are along the main thoroughfare, El Prada, or near the General Cemetery.
- Moving around the center of La Paz will be easiest by foot, because the main avenues and streets are closed, with access for crossing only by special corridors opened during breaks between different dance groups.
- Prepare for some extreme weather from strong sun in the afternoon to frequent rain and very cold evenings and mornings.
- Oxygen is thin and you might have some issues acclimatizing
- A change of clothes is advisable due to the roving attackers with water guns, water balloons, and even just buckets. Should the weather shift suddenly, as it’s apt to do, you’re going to want something dry!
- As always, overcrowding means you need to be wary of pickpockets.
