Pirwa – Page 69 – Pirwa Hostels BLOG

Puerto Maldonado in the Peruvian Amazon

December 19, 2013 Pirwa

This December 26th, the department of Madre de Dios in southeastern Peru will celebrate its founding anniversary. Celebrations include singing, dancing and street parades, with the largest events taking place in the capital city, Puerto Maldonado. The area boasts lush landscapes, famous sunsets, wide rivers, and lakes and lagoons surrounded by tropical flowers and palm trees. Its most famous attractions are the virgin jungle of Manu Biosphere Reserve, Tambopata-Candamo National Park, and scenic Lake Sandoval.

Visitors to Manu can expect to see many tropical birds, including blue and yellow parrots which congregate at the local clay licks and the national bird of Peru, the Cock of the Rock, with its showy mating dance. Native reptiles include the cayman and the emerald boa, while some notable mammals are the long-legged maned wolf, oncilla (tigrillo), and the highly elusive jaguar.

Manu is one of the most bio-diverse areas in the world (only recently surpassed by Bolivia’s Madidi National Reserve for the most bio-diverse). You can take a tour which will allow you to explore its rivers and paths as well as visit an indigenous community. There are a variety of ethnic communities which live in the area, although the Machiguenga and Huacaria are the most well-known.

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The Scissor Dancers of Peru Will Show off Their Moves this December

December 17, 2013 Pirwa

Each December 24^th through 27^th, the city of Huancavelica celebrates the lively Scissor Dance (Danza de las Tijeras), which hails from the Ayacucho region of the Peruvian highlands and pairs acrobatic moves and rhythmically snapping scissors with violin and harp music.

In pre-Hispanic times, holy men from the local highland communities performed the ritual dances from which the Scissor Dance originates, but after the Spanish conquest such dances were seen as diabolical by the colonists, who forced the holy men into hiding in the surrounding mountains. The dancers were eventually allowed to return to their villages only upon the condition that from now on, they would dance for Catholic saints. Colonial influence can be seen through the inclusion of Spanish steps such as the jota, contradanza and minués, as well as in the dress. Today, the dance is often seen on religious holidays as well as agricultural festivals.

Three years ago, UNESCO declared the dance as part of the intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity for its historical and symbolic value.

As the dance never lost its reputation for being diabolical, locals referred to it as Supaypa Wasin Tusuq, which is Quechua for “dance in the house of the devil”. The popularity of the name Scissor Dance is attributed to 20^th century Peruvian author José María Arguedas, who immortalized the dance in various novels. Local lore maintains that a pact with the devil gives the dancers the skill and stamina to perform in marathon dance contests where they dance intermittently with competitors for 10 to 12 hours.

Alongside this month’s Atipanacuy Festival, during which the faithful engage in occasionally gory ritual spectacles, Huancavelica also holds its largest scissor dance contest.

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Christmas in Cusco, Peru

December 10, 2013 Pirwa

When it comes to Christmas and New Year’s Eve, Peru’s most popular destination is Cusco. Although you’ll find the city rather deserted on Christmas Day itself (as most businesses stay closed and people spend time with their families), Christmas Eve is very lively. From the early hours of Dec 24th, Peru’s largest folk art fair, Santurantikuy, fills the Plaza de Armas as it has since Incan times. Artisans from throughout the surrounding provinces bring pieces for sale, especially the nativities and Niño Manuelito which have been so popular since the time of the Spanish conquest. (The latter is Cusco’s version of the child Christ, the most traditional version of which is the child sitting in a wooden chair with a wound in his raised foot. Buyers request wishes and insert a thorn in the wound, where it will remain until the wish is granted.) Other products include leather goods, carved wood and stone, leather goods, and decorative ceramics. While browsing the fair, you can warm up with some ponche or hot chocolate and sample some street food. Expect the main square to be very crowded during Santurantikuy, and be wary of pickpockets.

In the evening, most people enjoy a traditional Christmas Eve dinner with their families. (Peruvians consider Christmas Eve to be the main day of celebration, not Christmas Day.) Many restaurants offer set menus for travelers on this night, but they are very pricey by local standards.

All of the guests at our Cusco hostels are invited to join us at our own traditional dinner, this December 24th at 9pm at Pirwa Colonial Hostel. We offer this at cost, which is a third of the price that the same dinner will be selling elsewhere, so that all of us away from home can celebrate Christmas Eve together. (You can find invitations with the details at all of our reception desks.

At midnight, Cusco lights up with fireworks and firecrackers set off by local families. Although much of this clusters around the main square (which can sound like a war zone at this time), you’ll find the noise inescapable throughout the city. If you’re so inclined, you can choose to light a few of your own, as they’ll be on sale along the city streets throughout the day. Wherever and however you choose to spend the day, we hope that all of you have a Christmas filled with holiday cheer.

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Getting to Machu Picchu Citadel from Cusco

November 14, 2013 Pirwa

Hiking to Machu Picchu vía the famed Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, or other increasingly popular scenic treks such as the Salkantay Trail and the Choquequirao Trek, is an unforgettable experience, but for those with limited time or physical ability, there are other options as well. Travelers often opt for a one- or two-day train trip, or a combination trip often described as the “backdoor route” to Machu Picchu.

Taking the Train to Aguas Calientes

The main choices you need to make are the schedule, departure station, and the train service. First, you need to decide between an overnight trip or a one-day trip. By departing for Aguas Calientes in the afternoon or evening and spending the night there before visiting Machu Picchu, you ensure that you have more than enough time to explore the legendary citadel. You can also arrive before the crowds if you take the first bus at 5:10am, which will allow you to beat the trains. Lastly, if you wake up very early and hike up to the ruins rather than taking the bus, you might be lucky enough to catch the sunrise over Machu Picchu.

Conversely, doing it all in one day is rushed and riskier, and the necessity of only considering the earliest departure times and the latest return times often means you will have to pay more for the train tickets (as there are fewer service levels available at these times).

The foreign-owned Peru Rail owns all of the trains (including those with different names), and the lack of competition means that the train tickets are quite expensive. You’ll need to choose between three basic levels of service:

Backpacker- The most economical option, although in no way uncomfortable. If you want drinks or snacks, you must bring them.
Vistadome- Boasts more space and serves small snacks and drinks. Windows in the roof means better views of the surrounding countryside during the journey. Prices vary by departure time, but it costs almost 50 USD more than the Backpacker.
Hiram Bingham- The most luxurious service, costing as much as 700 USD.

Trains to Aguas Calientes leave daily from Poroy Station and the town of Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Poroy is located 20 minutes outside of Cusco, but the ticket generally includes bus transport from Cusco. Not only is this significantly more expensive, but during the rainy season it’s much less reliable, and the trip takes much longer. If possible, opt for transport to Ollantaytambo 90 minutes outside of Cusco (there are taxi and bus options), followed by the train. Trains depart from Ollantaytambo station more frequently, meaning there are more departure time options as well as lower prices.

Getting to Aguas Calientes By Car

You cannot reach Aguas Calientes by car alone, but you can cover a large part of the trip this way. It’s more time-consuming, but it’s the cheapest method. Basically, it involves traveling by minibus from Cusco, through the towns of Santa Maria and Santa Teresa. You can go as far as the Hydroelectric Station, a trip that takes 6-7 hours and costs around 15 USD. From there, you can walk for 2 ½ to 3 hours to arrive at Aguas Calientes. Or, you can take the train for around 15-18 USD.

You might actually get a cheaper price with a local travel agency, who can bundle the minibus, train, and bus tickets with accommodation in Aguas Calientes and the Machu Picchu entrance at the preferential rates they receive.

Of the different ways to reach Machu Picchu, this one is most vulnerable to delays during the rainy season, due to road conditions and landslides (although these can train travel as well).

From Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu Citadel

From Aguas Calientes, there are two ways to reach the ruins: a 20 minute bus trip (9.50 USD) or a hike. Buses leave from 5:30am on, departing as soon as they fill up and continuing for as long as the archeological complex remains open.

It takes from 1 to 2 hours to cover the 5 mile route, which is somewhat strenuous due to a multitude of stairs. Setting off at around 4:40am will allow you to reach the top before sunrise.

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Crossing the Peru – Bolivia Border

November 9, 2013 Pirwa

Most travelers cross the Peru – Bolivia border by buying a tourist-class bus ticket from Puno to Copacabana. Almost all of these buses cross at the border town of Yunguyo and depart Puno daily, such as Panamericano and Tour Peru. Disembarking at Copacabana allows you to explore the Lake Titicaca’s famous Isla del Sol (Sun Island), although you can also opt to continue on to La Paz. The 7hr trip from Puno to La Paz boasts scenic views of the villages alongside the lake and involves a ferry ride across the the lake’s Tiquina Strait.

The direct route from Puno to La Paz crosses the border at the small and filthy town of Desaguadero rather than Yunguyo. Ormeño buses depart Puno along this route at 5:45am each day, and although you won’t have a scenic trip, the total time gets cut down to 5 hours, and you will catch a glimpse of the Tiwanaku ruins en route.

Rather than take a bus from Puno’s main terminal (the terminal terrestre), you can take a colectivo from the corner of Bolivar and 1 de Mayo two blocks away. Although these shared vans are a cheaper option, you won’t be guaranteed a seat and have to deal with overcrowding and possible pickpockets. If you have luggage with you, you will find this an uncomfortable option.

2½hr Puno – Yunguyo: US$3.00
30min Yunguyo – Copacabana: US$0.50
5hr Copacabana – La Paz: US$4.00

The cheapest way to cross the border is by colectivo vía Desaguadero. It takes about 4 hours and US$2 to get from Puno to Desaguadero, and 4 more hours and US$3 to make it to La Paz from Desaguadero (with colectivos only leaving up to 5pm).

The colectivos stop at Desaguadero’s town center, only about 600 feet from the border stations, located along the bridge over the river of the same name. On the left of the bridge is the Peruvian immigration exit station. Officials here will check and collect your TAM, and stamp your passport, at which point you can walk across the bridge into Bolivia. Once you arrive on the Bolivia side, the entry station will be on your right.

At The Border

The Peru-Bolivia border is open from 8am–midday and from 2pm–7:30pm, and crossing is relatively quick and stress-free. Although you should confirm if this applies for your own country of origin, most tourists only require a passport and an entry/exit card which is provided for them. For example, in the case of Bolivia, North & South Americans, New Zealanders, and Australians won’t need entry visas, but French nationals must arrange this ahead of time. In the case of Peru, citizens of all of the countries in North America and South America, all countries within the European Union, Switzerland, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand are not required to obtain visas from the embassy in advance (among other exempt countries).

The card that you receive upon entering Peru or Bolivia is the TAM (Tarjeta Andina de Migración), which you will be required to produce it in order to leave the country. If you are flying into Peru, you will receive the card during the flight and must fill it in and present it upon arrival. As it is required for exit, if your card is lost during your visit, you will need to visit the local immigration office for assistance in procuring a new one. (If, on the other hand, you lose your passport, you should contact your embassy.)

The TAM will specify how many days you will be staying in the country. You will probably receive 90 days by default if you don’t ask for more, but you may request for up to 183 days in Peru. The Bolivian TAM is generally made out for 30 days, although the visa is valid for years. If you overstay the allotted days, you will be fined US$1 for every day before being permitted to exit the country.

If you are crossing the border from Peru to Bolivia, you will surrender your TAM for Peru at the Peruvian border post, and then receive a new one at the Bolivian entry post.

While most travelers will be stamped into Bolivia as quickly as they were stamped out of Peru, United States’ citizens will need to pay the US$135 entry fee- make sure you have pristine bills or they won’t be accepted. You will also need to provide a passport-sized photo for a visa which will be good for 5 years, and complete the visa application. (If you don’t have a photo they will sometimes search for a close match in the leftover pile, but you might as well come prepared if you can.) Avoid problems by ensuring that your passport still has at least six months validity remaining, and a free page to affix the Bolivian visa. If you’d like to save time, you can fill out the visa application online before heading for the border.

Technically, you can be asked to show your outbound flight or bus ticket, reservation information, or proof of yellow fever vaccination upon entering Bolivia or Peru. Most of the time these inquiries aren’t made, although you are most likely to be asked about the first.

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