Traveling by Bus in Bolivia

The buses of Bolivia offer you the opportunity to save money on travel, and sometimes on food for the day or lodging for the night. They also allow you to see the country in a new way by showing you overlooked landscapes, mixing together national and international travelers, and taking you to towns and cities to which you’d be unable to fly. Along the way, you might spy vicuñas and condors. Depending on the route, and considering that only about 5% of the country’s roads are paves, sometimes it’s an adventure on par with Death Road or mountain climbing!

The modern long-distance buses in Bolivia are called flotas, as they are usually part of a large fleet owned by one bus company. Almost of these are considered ‘tourist class’, with reclinable seats, bathrooms which unfortunately are almost always locked against passenger use, heat (sometime working, sometimes not), and TV. Some intercity flotas you might want to consider are Expreso Mopar, Trans Copacabana, Flota Copacabana, Full Turismo, Nuevo Continente, and Turisbus. You probably don’t want to take Uros, which has a reputation for unsafe driving.

Avoid the small white minibuses known as micros, which hold up to 24 people and are more prone to accidents and robberies, as well as the uncomfortable and older colectivo buses, if possible. The colectivo seats don’t recline, you’re likely to travelling alongside chickens or other smelly cargo, and they are often packed well beyond safe capacity. The micros and colectivos have to punch cards at points during their trip, as proof that they are operating along their given route at the time that they are supposed to; this forces many of them to speed unconscionably when behind.

Generally, all of the flotas depart from city bus terminals. When there, compare among the different companies to find the best price. It’s rare for tickets to be sold more than a day in advance, with last-minute tickets often being marked down by the bus companies. Be wary with resellers, lest you purchase a worthless ‘ticket’.

Modern tourist-class buses are limited to the most popular routes, such as La Paz-Uyuni, La Paz-Copacabana, and La Paz-Cochabamba. Semi-reclinable (semi-cama) and fully-reclinable (full cama) are worth the 20 or 30 extra bolivianos on any of the longer trips…consider it a necessity! La Paz-Potosí has its bumpy stretches due to deteriorated roads, while La Paz-Rurrenabaque is widely considered the worst ride in the country. The 20 hour trip is accident-prone and uncomfortable, so this may be the one time that it’s better to fly, if weather conditions allow.

Once you have your ticket, arrive half an hour early and check your bag if asked to (collecting a baggage claim slip). You need to get in line to pay the small terminal tax as well, for which they’ll put a sticker or stamp on your ticket. Then, you’re ready to board! Bus seats are numbered and specified on your ticket. Even if your bus starts out with a light passenger load and plenty of space, locals boarding at any time throughout the trip will likely fill it up completely.

In order to ensure a pleasant trip, keep our bus travel tips for Bolivia in mind:

• Always use the restroom before boarding and during each rest stop, equipped with your own personal toilet paper, a hand sanitizer that doesn’t require running water, and any other emergency hygienic supplies you desire. Most flotas have onboard bathrooms, but don’t allow passengers to use them!
• Just in case, prepare for a swerving ride over rocky terrain by carrying motion sickness pills, even if this isn’t a problem you normally suffer from.
• Don’t expect any temperature control- dress in layers, especially for long rides. As the midday heat dips into a cold night, and the bus crosses various climactic zones, you’ll be pleased to have the ability to adjust somewhat to the ranging temperatures. Crossing the altiplano is especially cold at night, and just because they say there’s heating doesn’t mean that it works- keep a blanket or your sleeping bag handy.
• Bring enough food and snacks to cover the estimated travel time and then some. Usually, the bus makes a formal meal stop, and vendors sometimes board the bus selling empanadas, cuñapes, and other snacks. However, a bus trip is the worst time for food poisoning, so be wise. Keep your stocks plentiful, as unexpected breakdowns or muddy roads can strand passengers. This is very important during protests, as street blockages can add a day to your trip.
• Keep informed of transportation strikes (bloqueos), by watching local news, consulting with the companies at the bus terminals, and checking online (the government website with live map showing which roads are closed or affected by landslides is http://www.abc.gob.bo/ – just click on the transitabilidad option).
• Just because your bag is under your seat and between your legs doesn’t mean it’s safe- be alert in case someone sitting behind you attempts to slash your bags and take out the electronics.
• If you’re storing your baggage below, have change to tip the baggage handler, and try to sit on the right of the bus to keep an eye on luggage as people board and alight during the trip. If possible, avoid strapping your bags to the top of buses if there’s room below, as speeding drivers have been apt to lose a few bags along the way!
• If you are traveling from La Paz to Copacabana, or from Puno, Peru to Copacabana (or vice-versa), remember to take your passport and valuables with you when you get off the bus to take the ferry. There are rarely any problems, but it’s a wise choice, as you will be separated from the bus for up to half an hour. The ferry price isn’t included in your bus ticket price; even though this probably wasn’t mentioned during purchase, so bring some small bills to pay the boat captains. You’ll have time for lunch or a snack while you wait for the bus barge to arrive.

Although it may involve more stamina and preparation than air travel, you’ll enjoy open vistas of Lake Titicaca, the high Andean plains, snowy Andean peaks, and deserts- our top tip is to enjoy it!