Descent into Cotahuasi, the Deepest Canyon in the World

Beyond the elegant and inviting White City of Arequipa, an outsized landscape of volcanoes and canyons beckons. At twice the depth of the Grand Canyon in the United Stated, Arequipa’s Cotahuasi Canyon is truly the deepest in the world, with nearby Colca Canyon coming in second. As Cotahuasi is a longer trip from Arequipa than Colca, it isn’t as popular as the latter, which is a shame, as it has a lot to offer… 

You can reach Cotahuasi Canyon by following the Panamerican Highway to Chuquibamba and then continuing on a dirt road through Aplao. Buses depart the Arequipa bus terminal each day from 4-6pm. It takes ten to twelve hours to arrive at the massive canyon, which spans the distance between the enormous massifs of Mt Coropuna and snowy Mt. Sulimana.

The canyon comprises 19 different ecological zones and is marked by rivers and gullies which cut steeply into the landscape. Treks into the canyon begin in the cold arid heights, but descend into warmer regions.

Although it is part of a national reserve, there are a number of communities located within the canyon. You’ll see locals colorfully dressed in a mix of colorful folkloric dress and modern t-shirts and sweatpants. While modern amenities such as cell phones, internet access, and cable are changing some aspects of their lives, the altitude and remoteness of this region have preserved the agricultural, weaving, and folkloric dance traditions that have characterized the canyon communities since pre-Incan times.

You’ll notice that each community boasts a colonial church and main square, and is surrounded by patch-worked fields of carefully tended subsistence crops that add color to the landscape. Some of the plants you’ll see are kiwicha, quinoa, mint, dark maize, tarwi and oca. Along the trails, a number of Inca and pre-Inca works can be observed, most notably the agricultural terraces, which are still in use to this day.

You will also want to keep an eye out for the massive Andean condor, the world’s largest bird of flight. If a shadow blocks out the sun for a moment, it is almost always one of these impressive and endangered creatures flying overhead.

At the beginning of this month, and again in September, festivals engulf each village as they celebrate their patron saint, the Virgin of Chapi. Festivities include a lot of circle dancing, modest and thankfully unarmed bullfights, feasting, and drinking copious amounts of alcohol.

If you only have a short time, a day trip to visit some local villages and the Sipia waterfalls is recommended, with perhaps a stop at the Luicho hotsprings to relax and warm up in the evening. Another easy trek is the climb to the Wari settlement of Maukallacta. Those with more time to spend can explore the area a little better, perhaps opting for a four-day tour of the canyon.